Metal Halide vs. T5 vs. PC vs. LED

blackjacktang

blackjacktang

Active Member
So...witch one do you like better? I choose T5 and heres why and what I think of all of them (no proof to back up, just my opinions)
METAL HALIDE
~Pros
-SUPER intense
-Able to keep any coral/invert.
-Dont take alot of canopy space
~Cons
-Create a lot of heat!
-Consume vast amounts of power
-Raises electric bill most
-Can not touch the bulb
-Less Colors to choose from if only have one
-Cost the most $$$
-You rely on one bulb (sometimes)
T5
~Pros
-Less expencive then MH
-Dont generate as much heat as MH
-Cost less then MH
-More color to choose from
-Dont consume as much power as MH
-Can keep most corals
-You can touch the bulbs
-If more than two different bulbs, you can simulate dawn and dusk
~Cons
-Not as intense as MH
-You have more than one bulb to worry about
-Choosing the right bulb can be difficult at time
PC
~Pros
-Not as expenicive
-Can keep some corals (depends on alot)
-Replacement is not as expenicve
-Great for FOWLR
~Cons
-Not as intense as MH or T5
-Cannot keep high light corals (sometimes)
-Specific Color you want is hard to find
LED
~Pros
-No need to replace for up to 5 years
-Create very little heat
-Are not as bulky or big as MH or T5
-There LEDs! I mean c'mon! Thats awsome!
-Can keep a large amounts of different kinds of coral
~Cons
-Expencive!
-Can be confusing to a beginner
 
monsinour

monsinour

Active Member
I would take the con of expensive from LED and remove it completely. You would then have to add DIY to the Pro arguement for LEDs. LEDs are only expensive if you get put together stuff. Making it all yourself is not so bad. Next tank I get will have LEDs over it. Then again, the next tank is the Chi. The next tank after that will have LEDs too.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Agreed, for the DIY'er LED's hands down are the way to go. And if you do them yourself then they aren't any more expensive upfront than a descent MH/T5 combo fixture. They will pay for themselves after the first 2 years. After that it's all savings. The shimmer effect is unmatched by any other lighting. The right kind of combination will bring out some amazing colors. They have the potential to last over ten years. Think of the money saved in bulb replacement alone.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Your typical T5 fixture is only good for depths of upto about 18 inches for more corals. Low light corals could survive at 18" depths but SPS would have to be kept much higher. However some fixtures like the ATI fixtures overdrive the bulbs and can penetrate depths of upto about 24"
Metal Halide: 150W is good for about 18", 250W for upto about 24", and 400W is good for about 24-36". Give or take a couple inches here or there. Again, not all bulbs and ballasts are created equal. Everything depends on what you're looking to keep and at what depths you are keeping them. Corals do have the ability to adjust to different lighting situations as well, but my lose or gain color depending on the circumstances.
Low power leds like 1watt leds have the ability to keep most corals at shallower depths. The higher power 3watt leds depending on what they are being driven at and what optics are used can be more intense than 400w metal halide. 3watt leds are the choice of DIY'ers. They can keep anything at far less power than 400w halides.
 
bullitr

bullitr

Active Member
LEDs
I had everything of all the choices
And LEDs are cheap now if you get a reef koi evolution cheaper than DIY but not dimmables
AI ( aqualumination ) is nice but it's very expensive and you need a lot .
The only bad thing about LEDs is you need a lot of heater during the winter
But I will make it up on the summer plus the solar panel will produce more :)
 
monsinour

monsinour

Active Member
After everything I have read now, I would go with a DIY LED if I could start all over again.
Theres a place where you can get all this
48 3w Cree XRE Q5 LEDs w Optics
Choose Your Driver Option
2 X Ultra Quiet 23 dB Fan w Powersupply
1 X 24? x 8.46? Heat Sink
2 X Thermal Adhesive and End Caps
4 X Leviton Polarized 15A Plug
Everything you need for a DIY Retro except for 20-22 gauge and solder. This LED retro will replace a 250-400 watt MH.
and dimable drivers
all for the low price of $454. All that is not included is the wire and solder. Big enough for a 30" tank and you will be able to keep whatever you want under it. If you were to do a MH solution to this tank, after about 2 years, the LEDs have paid for themselves.
 
1snapple

1snapple

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsinour http:///forum/thread/383834/metal-halide-vs-t5-vs-pc-vs-led#post_3359866
After everything I have read now, I would go with a DIY LED if I could start all over again.
Theres a place where you can get all this
48 3w Cree XRE Q5 LEDs w Optics (I disagree, you need XP-E, Royal blue/ blue/ green/ any color you want ect. And either the XP-G R5 cool white w/ 80 lenses or XE-Q5 w/ 60 or 80 optics.)
Choose Your Driver Option (you can find multiple drivers, I would recommend enough of each color LED to used 2-3 drivers to control Blue, Royal Blue, and white individually.)
2 X Ultra Quiet 23 dB Fan w Powersupply (Depends on your heasink and if you have a canopy.)
1 X 24? x 8.46? Heat Sink (also can get a longer and wider heatsink and space LEDs further apart and will cool better and might not need a fan.)
2 X Thermal Adhesive and End Caps.
4 X Leviton Polarized 15A Plug (Why do you need this?)
Everything you need for a DIY Retro except for 20-22 (18-16 gauge works as good and helps w/ the heatsink and heat.) gauge and solder. This LED retro will replace a 250-400 watt MH.
and dimable drivers
all for the low price of $454. (depend where you shop, I recommend www.rapidled.com/ (Give them a call or email) All that is not included is the wire and solder (resin core solder.) Big enough for a 30"(48"-60") (60" maybe spread out enough) tank and you will be able to keep whatever you want under it. If you were to do a MH solution to this tank, after about 2 years, the LEDs have paid for themselves.
Okay, I think thats it.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383834/metal-halide-vs-t5-vs-pc-vs-led#post_3359795
Agreed, for the DIY'er LED's hands down are the way to go. And if you do them yourself then they aren't any more expensive upfront than a descent MH/T5 combo fixture. They will pay for themselves after the first 2 years. After that it's all savings. The shimmer effect is unmatched by any other lighting. The right kind of combination will bring out some amazing colors. They have the potential to last over ten years. Think of the money saved in bulb replacement alone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/383834/metal-halide-vs-t5-vs-pc-vs-led#post_3359807
Your typical T5 fixture is only good for depths of upto about 18 inches for more corals. Low light corals could survive at 18" depths but SPS would have to be kept much higher. However some fixtures like the ATI fixtures overdrive the bulbs and can penetrate depths of upto about 24"
Metal Halide: 150W is good for about 18", 250W for upto about 24", and 400W is good for about 24-36". Give or take a couple inches here or there. Again, not all bulbs and ballasts are created equal. Everything depends on what you're looking to keep and at what depths you are keeping them. Corals do have the ability to adjust to different lighting situations as well, but my lose or gain color depending on the circumstances.
Low power leds like 1watt leds have the ability to keep most corals at shallower depths. The higher power 3watt leds depending on what they are being driven at and what optics are used can be more intense than 400w metal halide. 3watt leds are the choice of DIY'ers. They can keep anything at far less power than 400w halides.
Agree!!!!!!
 
R

RaulHais

New Member
bullitr said:
LEDs
I had everything of all the choices
And LEDs are cheap now if you get a reef koi evolution cheaper than DIY but not dimmables
AI ( aqualumination ) is nice but it's very expensive and you need a lot .
The only bad thing about LEDs is you need a lot of heater during the winter
But I will make it up on the summer plus the solar panel will produce more :)
Click to expand...
Yes your system will produce more in summer..There will be plenty of sunshine available
 
Last edited:
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
I have had the MH, PC and T5HO.... When it came to LEDs ...even the explanations are confusing...so my solution: I get on this site, find somebody who knows a little, and beg them to tell me if this fixture will work for what I need.

PC units just were not good enough for anything but fish only. I hated the MHs, the bulbs were EXPENSIVE, something was always going wrong with it, I had a Coralife elite unit. Bulbs had to be ordered because no LFS carried them at all. I ended up giving them away after a few years. I think I like T5HO the best, simple and easy to understand, and replacing the bulbs are easy since almost every LFS carries them.

I just ordered my first LED unit...I hope it's good enough for what I need, I really have no idea, but I was told it would be okay. Fingers crossed. I am not a DIY'er now or ever.
 
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