Instant Death, Why?

FishyCurt

New Member
Hello guys,
I need some help understanding why I just lost my flame angel and yellow eye tang and the same time in my reef tank.
Here are my Tank parameters.
Ph 8.0
Am 10
nitrite 0
KH 8
salinity 1.025
I bought these fish from blue zoo.com both seemed to be in good condition. after Acclamation they both seemed still in good health, no white spots no jacked up fins, nothing. With in 3 hrs the flame angel with already grazing around on the rocks. while the tang was still shy hiding in the back. 3 days later both of them were out grazing around like normal eating off the seaweed clip and picking on the rocks.
Today 7 days after I got them, I thought it was strange that both of them weren't out shortly after the lights came on. So I went hunting... I found the flame angel dead and on the other side of the tank the yellow eye tang was dead too. I don't know what happened or what too think of this. I still have 2 bangaii cardinals 2 clowns 1 blenny 1 goby an a royal gramma and all my corals that still look great ad thriving.
Does anyone know what could have caused this instant death?
Thanks Curt
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

You shouldn't have any ammonia reading at all...even if the typo that says 10 is actually just 1.0
 

FishyCurt

New Member
Am 10 - is that Ammonia at 10ppm?

Can you Tell more background about your setup?
Yes, that's ammonia at .10 ppm
I have a reef octopus BH1000 HB skimmer, marineland HB 280 filter and 75Lb liverock 55g tank 2 hydor 600 circulation pumps and 1 marineland powerhead 250gph
I know the ammonia shouldn't be .10 but that cant be the reason why 2 fish die instantly when the other fish are doing fine and my corals are still out. right?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

A Kole tang needs a 75g tank minimum. I know that dwarf angels need pristine water conditions, I couldn't keep one alive for the first year my tank was up and running. The only thing I can think of is that the new fish were stressed from the move... the other fish in the tank are more hardy and not stressed. Do some water changes and get the ammonia to 0.
 

FishyCurt

New Member
Hi,

A Kole tang needs a 75g tank minimum. I know that dwarf angels need pristine water conditions, I couldn't keep one alive for the first year my tank was up and running. The only thing I can think of is that the new fish were stressed from the move... the other fish in the tank are more hardy and not stressed. Do some water changes and get the ammonia to 0.
Yes I know the kole tang need a minimum of 75g, once it got bigger I was gonna transfer into my larger aquarium, but it was only 1.5in and the other fish in the bigger tank would have ate him. .10ppm shouldn't kill a fish over night, especially when they were doing just fine before I went to bed and 8 hrs later dead... it just doesn't make sense.
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
How long have u had the powerheads? I added a korila to my tank next day my kole and blenny dead. Clown, fire, wrasse, mandarins. Where fine
 

bang guy

Moderator
I agree that Ammonia didn't kill your fish. the 0.1ppm was probably from the dead fish themselves.

I can't think of any explanation.
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
W me the only thing that changed was the power head. Now I have another in my big tank and no issues. But recently another forum member had issues w one releasing electricity in the tank. Just an idea
 

FishyCurt

New Member
How long have u had the powerheads? I added a korila to my tank next day my kole and blenny dead. Clown, fire, wrasse, mandarins. Where fine
You have an interesting point, the 2 korila's circulation pumps where brand new I cleaned them up with freshwater, the powerhead ive had in the tank from day 1. Im wondering now since both of the fish are fairly sensitive to changes that maybe by chance there was something in the plastic or rubber that was released into the water. That would make sense on many levels cause you wouldn't see it and it couldn't be tested for, and since that was the only new thing added and both were healthy and active and both of them instantly dead. But why would that only effect those 2 fish and none of my corals? I just did a 20% water change. Thankfully bluezoo is a great company and has refunded my money in credit. Im going to wait 4-6 months with the korilas in the tank then try again.
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
I agree w flower
also I know, I only lost 2 fish out of 7 but it was w in 24hrs of adding the power head
 

FishyCurt

New Member
I don't run carbon in any of my aquariums. I tried it one time for 4 days and it sucked everything out of the water and almost killed everything.
 

steelgluer

Member
Carbon is ok but not for a long period of time.

Activated carbon has been used for many years in both saltwater and freshwater aquariums for a number of purposes.
What Is Activated Carbon?

Activated Carbon is also called activated charcoal, activated coal or carbo activatus. Activated carbon is a form of carbon that has been processed to make it extremely porous and thus to have a very large surface area available for adsorption or chemical reactions. Activated carbon is manufactured from carbon, typically coal. The two most common forms are bituminous and lignite based. Another form that is not made from coal is coconut shell based.

Activated carbon is processed into 3 forms: Granular, pellets and powder. The granular and pellets are most commonly used in aquarium filters.

What Does Activated Carbon Do?

The use of activated carbon in marine tanks is considered to be a form of chemical filtration. Working through absorption, activated carbon removes gelbstoff (the compounds that give water in an aquarium the yellow tint), some large organic molecules, medications, chlorine, pollutants and toxins, as well as many other types of chemical elements and compounds from the water that a protein skimmer or another means of filtration may not remove.

Activated carbon can also remove the trace elements and minerals that are important to your fish, invertebrates and corals. A recent study has found that the heavy use of activated carbon in marine aquariums can cause Head & Lateral Line Erosion disease (most often seen on fish in the Surgeonfish Family). This can be avoided by using a trace element additive in the aquarium.

Because of its large surface area per volume, activated carbon also makes a good biological filtration platform. Pelletized carbon is used in the DIY Carbon Tube Filter with excellent results. When activated carbon is placed in a Canister Filter, is also serves as a biological Filter.

Filtration Methods Using Activated Carbon

In order for the carbon to be effective, water must flow over/through the carbon material. Activated carbon is used in a number of aquarium filtration systems. As stated earlier, activated carbon can be placed in one or more of the chambers of canister filters or in a Carbon Tube. Replaceable filter pads in most power filters incorporate granulated carbon in the pads. Carbon can be spread in a Wet/Dry Trickle Filter tray (pelletized carbon works better here). Mesh bags can also be filled with carbon can placed in the aquarium water flow area in a sump.

How Often Should Carbon be Used?

The two main concerns about using carbon in a saltwater system is that carbon often leaches phosphate into the aquarium, and that it removes necessary trace elements needed by reef animals, particularly corals.


  • The Phosphate Leaching Issue
    As far as phosphate goes, you want to remove this element from your tank, not add it. A high phosphate accumulation in saltwater aquariums can lead to aggressive hair algae blooms that are difficult to get rid of, and since some brands of carbon may leach phosphate into an aquarium, you should test the carbon you are using, or going to use, for leaching. If you find any relevant traces, you can change to a different brand, or remove the phosphates from your system either by using a Phosphate Removing Product or via the Vodka Method.

  • The Trace Element Absortion Issue
    There has been an ongoing controversy amongst aquarist for years if you should use carbon continuously, just when needed, or even at all. The trend leans towards using carbon only when there is really a reason its use is warranted, because a healthy system, particularly one that has an adequate protein skimmer installed should not require it. Richard Harker's iodide absorption test results lead him to conclude that, "the use of carbon has minimal impact on iodide concentrations and that passive use of carbon has no lesser affect on iodide levels than active use." Our conclusion here is that if you decide to use Activated Carbon on a continuous basis and are concerned about the possible loss of trace elements, add some trace element supplements in conjunction with the activated carbon, as well as bypass the water flow through the carbon for a short period of time before and after supplements have been added to allow it to be absorbed by the reef life and not the carbon.
How Much Carbon Should Be Used?

More is not always best, and using the least amount of carbon necessary is recommended. The general consensus here is that a quantity of about 3 level tablespoons of carbon per 50 gallons of actual tank water volume should be sufficient to keep a saltwater aquarium or reef tank system color free.

How Often Should Carbon Be Changed?

Like most other absorbing compounds, carbon can only absorb as much as it can hold. Once it has taken in as much as it can, it becomes exhausted, which means it is unable to absorb anything more. For this reason it needs to be changed and replaced, or rejuvenated for reuse. Not all aquariums run the same, so as far as determining when to change the carbon, this is something you will have to figure out on your own. By sight you definitely know it's time when the aquarium water begins to get a yellow tinge to it, but there are ways to test it as well. The bottom line is that it's best to use smaller amounts changed more often. Take into consideration; not changing all the carbon too quickly if your water is significantly yellow, as this can expose corals to too much UV light abruptly which can lead to coral bleaching, and possible death.
 
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