eric b 125
Active Member
I'm wondering if something could have been leaching out of my water storage containers as well... I noticed an NSF stamp on the Brute's I just got. That wasn't there on my old Rubbermaids.
Smaller place, bigger tank...My 200DD build
- Thread starter eric b 125
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eric b 125
Active Member
Still no need for me to siphon the rocks off! There is some stuff piling-up in the dead spots in the tank, but overall I'm seeing progress (finally). I'm going to order a RODI sometime in the next few days and pull my VorTechs out from storage.
eric b 125
Active Member
Hell yeah it is! I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much until I can do a large water change without seeing some sort of bloom though. Once this RODI arrives I'm going to try a 40 gallon water change and see what happens. It'll be nice to see the difference regular water changes have on my frags. They haven't really grown much since I've gotten them. I haven't been able to do too many water changes b/c of the dinos so I'm hoping that they start growing with regular water changes. If I don't see any growth by the end of the year then I'm going to have to switch lighting, probably to good T5 fixtures or to better LED's. One thing at a time though.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Clean filters and good DI resin will ensure 100% pure water. There should be absolutely nothing to promote any kind of unwanted growth. If your mag, cal, and alk levels are good, but you're not seeing any growth from your corals, there's a good chance it's the lighting. I change roughly 17% of my water every couple of months, just to replenish minor elements that don't get consumed as fast as alk, cal, which are dosed daily. Mag is dosed approximately once a month. I have T5 lighting, and I have excellent growth from my corals, even the Acros... 
reefkeeperZ
Member
Eric get the Ro/di up and running, then do a "reset" water change 50% at least. wait 24 hours then do it again.
there are so many thing we cant check and don't have the ability to predict that can effect coral growth. before you think its the lights, keep in mind years ago some of us were keeping acropora and montipora under regular output flourescents and seeing growth on them before everyone decided it was impossible and couldn't be done.
there are so many thing we cant check and don't have the ability to predict that can effect coral growth. before you think its the lights, keep in mind years ago some of us were keeping acropora and montipora under regular output flourescents and seeing growth on them before everyone decided it was impossible and couldn't be done.
eric b 125
Active Member
I would not be surprised if I started seeing growth once I do a large water change with RODI. I haven't been able to do regular water changes because of the Dinos, so things like Ca, Mg, Alk have been steadily decreasing and certainly haven't been stable. I've seen a lot of tanks as deep as mine get good growth from the same lights I use.
I ordered a 4 stage, 150 GPD RODI yesterday. It comes with a pressure gauge, auto shut-off, and dual TDS meter. It also comes with a chloramine test, so if my water has high chloramines I will get an additional two stages. I also might have to get a booster pump but I won't know either of those things until I get the RODI. While I was at it I also got some calibration fluid for my refractometer.
After I get the RODI running, the next order of business will be to get the QD drivers and the VorTechs back in the tank. I'm going to focus on my fish list for the next few months and see how the frags grow in the interim. If everything goes well, I'm going to start getting larger colonies rather than just frags. Also, the Ca Rx is ready to run except for CO2 tubing. Will have to see how regular water changes go for a while. One thing at a time....
I ordered a 4 stage, 150 GPD RODI yesterday. It comes with a pressure gauge, auto shut-off, and dual TDS meter. It also comes with a chloramine test, so if my water has high chloramines I will get an additional two stages. I also might have to get a booster pump but I won't know either of those things until I get the RODI. While I was at it I also got some calibration fluid for my refractometer.
After I get the RODI running, the next order of business will be to get the QD drivers and the VorTechs back in the tank. I'm going to focus on my fish list for the next few months and see how the frags grow in the interim. If everything goes well, I'm going to start getting larger colonies rather than just frags. Also, the Ca Rx is ready to run except for CO2 tubing. Will have to see how regular water changes go for a while. One thing at a time....
eric b 125
Active Member
Sooo... I have three water sources in my apt: the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, and the bath/shower. The bathroom sink is the closest to the fish closet but has the least amount of pressure. The kit comes with 10' of feed line and a self-tapping pipe adapter. I'm really hoping that I can tap the shower head pipe since the shower gets used less than the sinks, but it is exactly 10' away from where I plan on mounting the RODI and I know I'm going to lose pressure over that 10' span.
Guess I'll figure it out on Tues or Wed. The unit is scheduled for delivery on Tues but I work 3-11.
Guess I'll figure it out on Tues or Wed. The unit is scheduled for delivery on Tues but I work 3-11.
eric b 125
Active Member
I wouldn't be surprised if I do need a booster pump, but wasn't going to buy one in the event that I might not need it. Guess we'll see in a few days.
In the interim: the heater in the QT broke...I got home from brunch and the temperature was very close to 100F... somehow the PBT is still hanging on, but breathing heavy. I added some ice cubes, let a bottle of frozen water thaw (that only took about 5 minutes, max) added some cold FW, and have an ice pack in a freezer bag thawing in there now. I also opened the hood of the biocube and set a fan to blow across the surface. I think within the past few months I've covered all the bases except for a busted seam, knock on wood. It's down to 90* but I have to get moving to go to work. My GF will call me when she swings by after moonlighting and let me know if it died or not. At this point all I can do is LOL.
In the interim: the heater in the QT broke...I got home from brunch and the temperature was very close to 100F... somehow the PBT is still hanging on, but breathing heavy. I added some ice cubes, let a bottle of frozen water thaw (that only took about 5 minutes, max) added some cold FW, and have an ice pack in a freezer bag thawing in there now. I also opened the hood of the biocube and set a fan to blow across the surface. I think within the past few months I've covered all the bases except for a busted seam, knock on wood. It's down to 90* but I have to get moving to go to work. My GF will call me when she swings by after moonlighting and let me know if it died or not. At this point all I can do is LOL.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
I hope the poor guy will be okay! The temp didn't go up fast enough to kill it, but dropping the temp too fast certainly can. I think it would be best to just use fans and let it cool down gradually. Quick changes in temp can cause broad swings in pH, as well as cause thermal shock to the fish. Little fellow's already been through quite an ordeal with near boiling conditions... lol!
robertmathern1
Member
Personally I have never run heaters after a heater in my 180 exploded in the tank. The temp of you house is usually about right for the tank. Especially after considering all the heat from the pumps and such already.
eric b 125
Active Member
The PBT (poor, poor PBT) is still alive but looks like he's really been put through the ringer. I guess that's pretty appropriate since he has, in fact, gone through hell and back. I went to my most local LFS and they were out of salt. I'll have to get some pre-mixed RODI again tomorrow since I have the day off, as well as some salt, and I'll dilute it and do a water change on the QT. I cannot BELIEVE that out of all the fish that died in QT (this will be the last time I try and QT more than 2 fish at a time) the PBT was the one to have survived this long. Hopefully it'll be on the mend soon because I'm heading out for three days of kayaking next weekend.
The DT is still looking okay and I will hopefully have 40 gallons of RODI SW mixed for a WC when I get back next Sunday.
The DT is still looking okay and I will hopefully have 40 gallons of RODI SW mixed for a WC when I get back next Sunday.
eric b 125
Active Member
It'll be so great to see it swimming around in the DT!!!
eric b 125
Active Member
You'll have to excuse the dirtiness of the QT. I try to spend the least amount of time around it right now to help minimize any stress to the fish. You can see that the fish is looking pretty ragged. I put some Melafix in the QT this morning to help prevent any bacterial infections in the open wound. I am mixing a water change for the morning. The fish is still acting normal and is pecking at the algae clip. As bad as it looks I think it will be able to make a full recovery.
eric b 125
Active Member
The PBT is still sloughing skin. IDK how thermal burns work with fish (I'm assuming this is pretty much a thermal burn) but I'm pretty familiar with how they work in humans and they tend to get worse before they get better. I'm going to do a 10 gallon w/c on the QT today, but I'm not going to clean any of the glass.
RODI to be delivered today as well.
RODI to be delivered today as well.
eric b 125
Active Member
Flatworms (?) in the DT?
