An Easy and Cheap Way to Cure Ich (or ick) - My Adventure with 'Ich-Attack' by Kordon
- Thread starter ntracy
- Start date
spiderwoman
Active Member
Michael already posted the link
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/127007/faqs-fish-diseases-treatments-quarantine-health-info
You need to read it through. It explains everything. There is no shortcut in getting it done, you need to read.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/127007/faqs-fish-diseases-treatments-quarantine-health-info
You need to read it through. It explains everything. There is no shortcut in getting it done, you need to read.
perfectdark
Active Member
While I think your attempt to start a QT is a smart idea and one that should be followed through on. The rest of what I read is going to end in nothing but trouble and loss.
You can experiment all you want, the truth is this has all been done many many times in the past by many other hobbiest. 99% of them never do more than waste money and crash tanks. You need to fully understand the parasite the method it uses to live and reproduce before you can fully understand that while your fish may not look like they are infected ICH is still present in your tank with out a doubt.
looking at your system IMO your in way over your head to begin with. And you have many inhabitants that shouldnt belong in your tank, including the clam. Seeing all of this compounded with your attempt to eradicate ich alternatively from what is proven to work tends to make people think that your not to serious about what your doing... FWIW Just because your fish look happy doesnt mean they are. Hippo tangs as an example need much more room than you are providing to be happy, and no it doesnt matter the size of the fish, even juveniles need much more room than that. JMO.
You can experiment all you want, the truth is this has all been done many many times in the past by many other hobbiest. 99% of them never do more than waste money and crash tanks. You need to fully understand the parasite the method it uses to live and reproduce before you can fully understand that while your fish may not look like they are infected ICH is still present in your tank with out a doubt.
looking at your system IMO your in way over your head to begin with. And you have many inhabitants that shouldnt belong in your tank, including the clam. Seeing all of this compounded with your attempt to eradicate ich alternatively from what is proven to work tends to make people think that your not to serious about what your doing... FWIW Just because your fish look happy doesnt mean they are. Hippo tangs as an example need much more room than you are providing to be happy, and no it doesnt matter the size of the fish, even juveniles need much more room than that. JMO.
ntracy
Member
Okay. I'm stopping treatment.
None of my corals are looking that great, but what did it for me was the way my long-tentacle fungia plate looked. I know he's already high maintenance, but he's not doing good, and I worry he may be dead already. He's responding to movement (when I pick him up, his tentacles recede) but they're not really inflated and you can see his ribs around the sides.
As for the tang, you can no longer see the ich, but I know it's still in the tank. All I can do is add vitamins and garlic to the food to help everyone's immune system.
I know that Hippo tangs are very susceptible to ich and it must have really stressed him out with the moving of his 14g life to my house with him in tow (I did NOT transport him inside the 1/4full 14g tank - used a 5gal water jug with heater connected to power inverter in my truck). It was a 45 minute drive, and that probably wasn't fun for him. Then I got him home and floated him for 1-hr (left the lights on, another newbie mistake) then just put him in (didn't drip-acclimate - ANOTHER newbie mistake). Needless to say he's been through a lot this last week and a half. I think the ich could have been due to stress, but it's clear that I still know very little about this hobby so I have no real idea.
In the meantime, I'm going to get a QT setup and running in case I have any additional problems with anyone. Purchasing new livestock is at a standstill. I'll save my money on getting this 90g project going, and give it a good amount of time even after it's cycled before I add my existing livestock to it.
I could take my tangs to the LFS, but their tanks aren't a whole lot bigger than mine... one of the stores has 4x50g tanks, all full of fish already (he's better off with me, honestly. They have dead fish in their tanks all the time - it's bad). The second LFS is similar in that it has 8x40g tanks and about 50-60 of those little 1g tanks all in a row with a single fish in each one. They also are full of livestock, but I've never seen any dead fish there. it's a pretty clean operation. They were the ones that offered me the Ich-Attack so I'm questioning them now too. Lastly is a mom 'n pop store (great people) and they have immaculate tanks - 14x35g tanks, and 6x25g corner tanks. Everything looks healthy and well kept. They won't take this fish.
I think my best bet is to continue with staus quo and hope for the best, in the meantime getting the QT cycled and working to get the 90g going so my tangs can spread their fins a little easier.
None of my corals are looking that great, but what did it for me was the way my long-tentacle fungia plate looked. I know he's already high maintenance, but he's not doing good, and I worry he may be dead already. He's responding to movement (when I pick him up, his tentacles recede) but they're not really inflated and you can see his ribs around the sides.
As for the tang, you can no longer see the ich, but I know it's still in the tank. All I can do is add vitamins and garlic to the food to help everyone's immune system.
I know that Hippo tangs are very susceptible to ich and it must have really stressed him out with the moving of his 14g life to my house with him in tow (I did NOT transport him inside the 1/4full 14g tank - used a 5gal water jug with heater connected to power inverter in my truck). It was a 45 minute drive, and that probably wasn't fun for him. Then I got him home and floated him for 1-hr (left the lights on, another newbie mistake) then just put him in (didn't drip-acclimate - ANOTHER newbie mistake). Needless to say he's been through a lot this last week and a half. I think the ich could have been due to stress, but it's clear that I still know very little about this hobby so I have no real idea.
In the meantime, I'm going to get a QT setup and running in case I have any additional problems with anyone. Purchasing new livestock is at a standstill. I'll save my money on getting this 90g project going, and give it a good amount of time even after it's cycled before I add my existing livestock to it.
I could take my tangs to the LFS, but their tanks aren't a whole lot bigger than mine... one of the stores has 4x50g tanks, all full of fish already (he's better off with me, honestly. They have dead fish in their tanks all the time - it's bad). The second LFS is similar in that it has 8x40g tanks and about 50-60 of those little 1g tanks all in a row with a single fish in each one. They also are full of livestock, but I've never seen any dead fish there. it's a pretty clean operation. They were the ones that offered me the Ich-Attack so I'm questioning them now too. Lastly is a mom 'n pop store (great people) and they have immaculate tanks - 14x35g tanks, and 6x25g corner tanks. Everything looks healthy and well kept. They won't take this fish.
I think my best bet is to continue with staus quo and hope for the best, in the meantime getting the QT cycled and working to get the 90g going so my tangs can spread their fins a little easier.
ntracy
Member
Do you think it would work if I took my 14g tank and made it into my QT for now? The tank is cycled... all I would need to do is take out the sand and rock, introduce the fish into the tank, then lowering the salinity over a period of 48 hours. I know 14 gallons isn't ideal... but it's the best I can do short of going out and buying all new equipment and allowing it to cycle, all the while my fish get worse.
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
bioneck47
Member
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2654495
Do you think it would work if I took my 14g tank and made it into my QT for now? The tank is cycled... all I would need to do is take out the sand and rock, introduce the fish into the tank, then lowering the salinity over a period of 48 hours. I know 14 gallons isn't ideal... but it's the best I can do short of going out and buying all new equipment and allowing it to cycle, all the while my fish get worse.
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
Well I'm glad to see that your taking the proper steps, but sorry to say, your tiny 14 gallon tank isn't gonna work.It's just gonna make things worse. Remember, you have to keep your fish out of your DT for at least 6 weeks to kill the ich. There's no way you can keep your fish in there for that long. Your really gonna have to find a bigger tank. Have you checked your classifieds? I'd recommend at least a 35 gal but bigger is always better.
http:///forum/post/2654495
Do you think it would work if I took my 14g tank and made it into my QT for now? The tank is cycled... all I would need to do is take out the sand and rock, introduce the fish into the tank, then lowering the salinity over a period of 48 hours. I know 14 gallons isn't ideal... but it's the best I can do short of going out and buying all new equipment and allowing it to cycle, all the while my fish get worse.
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
Well I'm glad to see that your taking the proper steps, but sorry to say, your tiny 14 gallon tank isn't gonna work.It's just gonna make things worse. Remember, you have to keep your fish out of your DT for at least 6 weeks to kill the ich. There's no way you can keep your fish in there for that long. Your really gonna have to find a bigger tank. Have you checked your classifieds? I'd recommend at least a 35 gal but bigger is always better.
nigerbang
Active Member
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2654495
Do you think it would work if I took my 14g tank and made it into my QT for now? The tank is cycled... all I would need to do is take out the sand and rock, introduce the fish into the tank, then lowering the salinity over a period of 48 hours. I know 14 gallons isn't ideal... but it's the best I can do short of going out and buying all new equipment and allowing it to cycle, all the while my fish get worse.
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
There might some some free floating in the water or in the filters, wouldnt help alot. When I set up a qt, I bought a 10gal starter fom wal-mart.. think it was about $30
all you need is a tank, hob filter,some saltwater
http:///forum/post/2654495
Do you think it would work if I took my 14g tank and made it into my QT for now? The tank is cycled... all I would need to do is take out the sand and rock, introduce the fish into the tank, then lowering the salinity over a period of 48 hours. I know 14 gallons isn't ideal... but it's the best I can do short of going out and buying all new equipment and allowing it to cycle, all the while my fish get worse.
it's not ideal, but this sound like a good idea?
There might some some free floating in the water or in the filters, wouldnt help alot. When I set up a qt, I bought a 10gal starter fom wal-mart.. think it was about $30
all you need is a tank, hob filter,some saltwater
1journeyman
Active Member
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2652471
...
Also - all three of my LFS's use this stuff all the time, and it's the same place I buy my fish, coral, and anemone. I have a good feeling that this treatment may be nothing new for my livestock...
If you bought livestock from stores that use this medication, and the livestock has ich, doesn't that answer your question as to whether this medication works?
The stores sound to me like they are selling products to make up for their bad husbandry practices.
Glad you have stopped treatment. Good luck with treatment. Ich is a scourge in our hobby. trust us, if their was an easy way to treat it we would all support it.
http:///forum/post/2652471
...
Also - all three of my LFS's use this stuff all the time, and it's the same place I buy my fish, coral, and anemone. I have a good feeling that this treatment may be nothing new for my livestock...
If you bought livestock from stores that use this medication, and the livestock has ich, doesn't that answer your question as to whether this medication works?
The stores sound to me like they are selling products to make up for their bad husbandry practices.
Glad you have stopped treatment. Good luck with treatment. Ich is a scourge in our hobby. trust us, if their was an easy way to treat it we would all support it.
sepulatian
Moderator
What all is in the 34? Can you move all of your live rock, inverts, and whatever corals you have into the 14? All of the fish in both tanks have to be treated. You will lose any micro organisms in the sand. If you can set up and cycle a QT that is at least a 29 gallon then that will be better. Be certain that you have read and fully understand hyposalinity before you begin. You will need a refractometer.
I do hope that you understand that people are not trying to shoot down your ideas. People on here speak from experience and are just trying to help you avoid the mistakes that others have made
I do hope that you understand that people are not trying to shoot down your ideas. People on here speak from experience and are just trying to help you avoid the mistakes that others have made
bioneck47
Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2655231
What all is in the 34? Can you move all of your live rock, inverts, and whatever corals you have into the 14?
Hey that's a good idea...
http:///forum/post/2655231
What all is in the 34? Can you move all of your live rock, inverts, and whatever corals you have into the 14?
Hey that's a good idea...
camfish
Active Member
Originally Posted by bioneck47
http:///forum/post/2655360
Hey that's a good idea...
+2 The woman is a genius.
http:///forum/post/2655360
Hey that's a good idea...
+2 The woman is a genius.
ntracy
Member
Okay, I'm going to santa barbara tonight to get a 28 gallon ViaAqua Tank. It's all set-up and cycled, has coral and fish in it and everything. It's perfect too because since I'm transporting it, I need to get all the water out of it, so when I get home, I'll remove all the rock and sand and put the original water back in it.
I'll be transporting the fish and corals separately in a portable heated container, and will place them in either my 34g or my 14g. I noticed the baby tang had ich today too. F@#$)K.
So I'll have the 28 to put all my fish in, the 34 and 14 will be void of all fish and will remain that way for 6 weeks so whatever diseases in there can die off.
In the meantime, I'll lower the salinity of the 28g to 1.009
What about the twin spot goby? what should I do with him?
And if I put one of my shrimp in there, would that help? or would he suffer because of the hyposalinity?
I'll be transporting the fish and corals separately in a portable heated container, and will place them in either my 34g or my 14g. I noticed the baby tang had ich today too. F@#$)K.
So I'll have the 28 to put all my fish in, the 34 and 14 will be void of all fish and will remain that way for 6 weeks so whatever diseases in there can die off.
In the meantime, I'll lower the salinity of the 28g to 1.009
What about the twin spot goby? what should I do with him?
And if I put one of my shrimp in there, would that help? or would he suffer because of the hyposalinity?
al mc
Active Member
Hyposalinity will kill the shrimp. he stays in the tank with the live rock and corals. Inverts are unaffected by the Ich so it is OK to put in either tank that you are leaving fallow.
Twin spot, if ever present in a tank that had fish that now have Ich needs to be treated for Ich even if no signs are seen.
If you have read Beth's thread on setting up the QT/HT and on preforming hyposalinity then you should be all set. Please note that the HT/QT is hopefully fully cycled. Many people have lost fish during the hyposalinity because they got an ammonia/nitrite spike that did their fish in. Be prepared to do water changes and/or use something like Amquel plus to help control the ammonia/trites if they become a problem.
More people that use HT/QT and use hyposalinity 'patrol' the 'Disease' section so do not hesitate to start another post if you have questions. Many people can give you good advice. If Beth or Sep chime in, listen to them
Twin spot, if ever present in a tank that had fish that now have Ich needs to be treated for Ich even if no signs are seen.
If you have read Beth's thread on setting up the QT/HT and on preforming hyposalinity then you should be all set. Please note that the HT/QT is hopefully fully cycled. Many people have lost fish during the hyposalinity because they got an ammonia/nitrite spike that did their fish in. Be prepared to do water changes and/or use something like Amquel plus to help control the ammonia/trites if they become a problem.
More people that use HT/QT and use hyposalinity 'patrol' the 'Disease' section so do not hesitate to start another post if you have questions. Many people can give you good advice. If Beth or Sep chime in, listen to them
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2655644
Okay, I'm going to santa barbara tonight to get a 28 gallon ViaAqua Tank. It's all set-up and cycled, has coral and fish in it and everything. It's perfect too because since I'm transporting it, I need to get all the water out of it, so when I get home, I'll remove all the rock and sand and put the original water back in it.
I'll be transporting the fish and corals separately in a portable heated container, and will place them in either my 34g or my 14g. I noticed the baby tang had ich today too. F@#$)K.
So I'll have the 28 to put all my fish in, the 34 and 14 will be void of all fish and will remain that way for 6 weeks so whatever diseases in there can die off.
In the meantime, I'll lower the salinity of the 28g to 1.009
What about the twin spot goby? what should I do with him?
And if I put one of my shrimp in there, would that help? or would he suffer because of the hyposalinity?
Why in the world are you even thinking about adding more fish into this mess?? You want to pack all of the fish that you have now, along with more fish into a 28? NO!! If you bought this system then do not cross contaminate anything. Why would you?? You already have way too many fish in way too small sized tanks. My goodness, did you buy this tank or was it given to you? Al is correct, the shrimp cannot go into hypo. Please explain this new tank. If it has corals, fish, and inverts then it is no better to hypo in than your 34 is. You cannot add the corals and inverts into this tank because ich can, and will, hitch a ride on these into the new tank. You have the two tanks to switch stock between. Did you buy this new system?
http:///forum/post/2655644
Okay, I'm going to santa barbara tonight to get a 28 gallon ViaAqua Tank. It's all set-up and cycled, has coral and fish in it and everything. It's perfect too because since I'm transporting it, I need to get all the water out of it, so when I get home, I'll remove all the rock and sand and put the original water back in it.
I'll be transporting the fish and corals separately in a portable heated container, and will place them in either my 34g or my 14g. I noticed the baby tang had ich today too. F@#$)K.
So I'll have the 28 to put all my fish in, the 34 and 14 will be void of all fish and will remain that way for 6 weeks so whatever diseases in there can die off.
In the meantime, I'll lower the salinity of the 28g to 1.009
What about the twin spot goby? what should I do with him?
And if I put one of my shrimp in there, would that help? or would he suffer because of the hyposalinity?
Why in the world are you even thinking about adding more fish into this mess?? You want to pack all of the fish that you have now, along with more fish into a 28? NO!! If you bought this system then do not cross contaminate anything. Why would you?? You already have way too many fish in way too small sized tanks. My goodness, did you buy this tank or was it given to you? Al is correct, the shrimp cannot go into hypo. Please explain this new tank. If it has corals, fish, and inverts then it is no better to hypo in than your 34 is. You cannot add the corals and inverts into this tank because ich can, and will, hitch a ride on these into the new tank. You have the two tanks to switch stock between. Did you buy this new system?
ntracy
Member
No I haven't purchased the system.... yet. The benefit to the 28 is that the water is fully cycled. there's no way I can fit 34 gallons if coral and rock into a 14 gallon tank. Now THAT's a terrible idea. There'd be more rock than water.... and there's no way it would fit below the water line.
The 28 only has a mushroom coral, a pseudo and two engineers. it was a child's tank and the parents are trying to sell it on craigslist. I'll put the mushroom in my display tank, and remove everything but the fish.
From my understanding, the goal is to void the tanks of fish, and quarantine them on their own in a tank with ONLY fish and water. No fish in the display tank means the ich has no host and the ich dies off.
The tank with ONLY fish and water means the ich can be treated without causing any damage to anything else, simply because nothing else exists in that tank except for the fish and the water.
Either I get the 28 with the cycled water, or I get a new setup and wait for that one to cycle... all the while the fish get worse.
Which would you choose?
The 28 only has a mushroom coral, a pseudo and two engineers. it was a child's tank and the parents are trying to sell it on craigslist. I'll put the mushroom in my display tank, and remove everything but the fish.
From my understanding, the goal is to void the tanks of fish, and quarantine them on their own in a tank with ONLY fish and water. No fish in the display tank means the ich has no host and the ich dies off.
The tank with ONLY fish and water means the ich can be treated without causing any damage to anything else, simply because nothing else exists in that tank except for the fish and the water.
Either I get the 28 with the cycled water, or I get a new setup and wait for that one to cycle... all the while the fish get worse.
Which would you choose?
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2655808
No I haven't purchased the system.... yet. The benefit to the 28 is that the water is fully cycled. there's no way I can fit 34 gallons if coral and rock into a 14 gallon tank. Now THAT's a terrible idea. There'd be more rock than water.... and there's no way it would fit below the water line.
The 28 only has a mushroom coral, a pseudo and two engineers. it was a child's tank and the parents are trying to sell it on craigslist. I'll put the mushroom in my display tank, and remove everything but the fish.
From my understanding, the goal is to void the tanks of fish, and quarantine them on their own in a tank with ONLY fish and water. No fish in the display tank means the ich has no host and the ich dies off.
The tank with ONLY fish and water means the ich can be treated without causing any damage to anything else, simply because nothing else exists in that tank except for the fish and the water.
Either I get the 28 with the cycled water, or I get a new setup and wait for that one to cycle... all the while the fish get worse.
Which would you choose?
I would choose a new set up. Water does not cycle anything. Rock, filter pads, and sand does. These are your tanks and your money. Situate them however you see fit. You understand that the fish have to be treated separate from the inverts and rock. Arguing over what goes where will not help. Get them all set up so that the fish are in a tank that is large enough. They will be in there for at least six weeks.
http:///forum/post/2655808
No I haven't purchased the system.... yet. The benefit to the 28 is that the water is fully cycled. there's no way I can fit 34 gallons if coral and rock into a 14 gallon tank. Now THAT's a terrible idea. There'd be more rock than water.... and there's no way it would fit below the water line.
The 28 only has a mushroom coral, a pseudo and two engineers. it was a child's tank and the parents are trying to sell it on craigslist. I'll put the mushroom in my display tank, and remove everything but the fish.
From my understanding, the goal is to void the tanks of fish, and quarantine them on their own in a tank with ONLY fish and water. No fish in the display tank means the ich has no host and the ich dies off.
The tank with ONLY fish and water means the ich can be treated without causing any damage to anything else, simply because nothing else exists in that tank except for the fish and the water.
Either I get the 28 with the cycled water, or I get a new setup and wait for that one to cycle... all the while the fish get worse.
Which would you choose?
I would choose a new set up. Water does not cycle anything. Rock, filter pads, and sand does. These are your tanks and your money. Situate them however you see fit. You understand that the fish have to be treated separate from the inverts and rock. Arguing over what goes where will not help. Get them all set up so that the fish are in a tank that is large enough. They will be in there for at least six weeks.
al mc
Active Member
Ntracy....Sep is correct. Virtually no nitrifying bacteria is in the water column. I would buy a new 30g tank with appropriate sized filter, heater and a powerhead. Add some filter material and a cup or two of sand from your existing tank for the bacteria to help you cycle the tank and add pvc pipe/paint or cover the back and bottom/ and get going.
If the fish are all eating, acting normal..feed vitamin enriched foods +/- fresh
garlic juice and move them once a cycle is established. Have plenty of aged water made up and ready if you have an ammonia spike along with some Amquel plus. Many fish with Ich can die from ammonia toxicity and not the Ich if you are not prepared for an ammonia spike.
If the fish are all eating, acting normal..feed vitamin enriched foods +/- fresh
garlic juice and move them once a cycle is established. Have plenty of aged water made up and ready if you have an ammonia spike along with some Amquel plus. Many fish with Ich can die from ammonia toxicity and not the Ich if you are not prepared for an ammonia spike.
ntracy
Member
I just went shopping and picked up these goodies....
20Gal Glass Aquarium with 15w fluorescent hood
Marineland Bio Wheel 200 gpm
Eheim 75 watt heater (already had it)
Rio Powerhead (rated 137gph) (already had it)
50lb bag of instant ocean
16oz bottle of water conditioner/dechlorinator
Marine pH buffer (for when I do the hydrosalinity)
Amquel Plus
I couldn't get any PVC piping, so I'm going to put a few nalgene bottles in there. they've been machine washed, and then scrubbed with a clean sponge (in and out), then rinsed with salt water before putting in
I'll do 10 gallons of mixed salt (brita purified and then conditioned - sorry, no RO water available), 10 gallons of aged saltwater directly from the tank, 2 cups of live sand.
I've got it on my kitchen counter (the only place to put it aside from the floor - dog would probably drink out of it) and put a dark blue towel underneath it so they wouldn't see the white of the countertops.
Guys, this was the best I could do... I only have $17 in my bank account and $40 in my pocket until next payday, but I have side jobs that will help me get through until then. I know some of you would have preferred a 30g, but that one was $40 more, and well, I would have had to spit in my gas tank to get home if I got that one. So it was either the 20g with bio wheel or 30g with no filtration. I feel I made the right choice.
Another clown just died.
20Gal Glass Aquarium with 15w fluorescent hood
Marineland Bio Wheel 200 gpm
Eheim 75 watt heater (already had it)
Rio Powerhead (rated 137gph) (already had it)
50lb bag of instant ocean
16oz bottle of water conditioner/dechlorinator
Marine pH buffer (for when I do the hydrosalinity)
Amquel Plus
I couldn't get any PVC piping, so I'm going to put a few nalgene bottles in there. they've been machine washed, and then scrubbed with a clean sponge (in and out), then rinsed with salt water before putting in
I'll do 10 gallons of mixed salt (brita purified and then conditioned - sorry, no RO water available), 10 gallons of aged saltwater directly from the tank, 2 cups of live sand.
I've got it on my kitchen counter (the only place to put it aside from the floor - dog would probably drink out of it) and put a dark blue towel underneath it so they wouldn't see the white of the countertops.
Guys, this was the best I could do... I only have $17 in my bank account and $40 in my pocket until next payday, but I have side jobs that will help me get through until then. I know some of you would have preferred a 30g, but that one was $40 more, and well, I would have had to spit in my gas tank to get home if I got that one. So it was either the 20g with bio wheel or 30g with no filtration. I feel I made the right choice.
Another clown just died.
sepulatian
Moderator
You made a good choice! The only thing that I question is
I couldn't get any PVC piping, so I'm going to put a few nalgene bottles in there. they've been machine washed, and then scrubbed with a clean sponge (in and out), then rinsed with salt water before putting in
Was it a kitchen sponge? Even if it was new in the package, the decoration cannot be used yet. My sister wiped an entire tank out from that and it was a 29 with only goldfish. Sponges that are not meant for aquariums cannot be used. They have all kinds of antibacterial stuff on them. Thy are very toxic to fish and aquariums. You could soak it in bleach or white vinegar then rinse it many times.
The set up seems fine. You have a dark towel underneath. Did you pick up some Amquel plus? Do you have time to let it run for a bit before adding the fish or do they have go in tomorrow?
I couldn't get any PVC piping, so I'm going to put a few nalgene bottles in there. they've been machine washed, and then scrubbed with a clean sponge (in and out), then rinsed with salt water before putting in
Was it a kitchen sponge? Even if it was new in the package, the decoration cannot be used yet. My sister wiped an entire tank out from that and it was a 29 with only goldfish. Sponges that are not meant for aquariums cannot be used. They have all kinds of antibacterial stuff on them. Thy are very toxic to fish and aquariums. You could soak it in bleach or white vinegar then rinse it many times.
The set up seems fine. You have a dark towel underneath. Did you pick up some Amquel plus? Do you have time to let it run for a bit before adding the fish or do they have go in tomorrow?