I think you horse has one of these:
Originally Posted by seahorseorg
Endoparasites (Internal Parasides)
Protozoans, flatworms, flukes, roundworms, tapeworms, etc.
Causes/Problems
Internal parasitic infections are spread in much the same way as external parasitic infections. With proper quarantine and pre-treatment, often internal parasitic infections can be evaded. In many cases, given appropriate water conditions and health, seahorses can live in symbiosis with internal parasites for many years without problems. Additionally, endoparasites are rare with seahorses.
Symptoms:
* slow wasting/weight loss
* sometimes seen protruding from anal opening
Most commonly, these parasitic worms fix themselves to the infected specimen's digestive tract, constantly consuming nutrients vital to the infected specimen's health. Unless treated, malnutrition follows, leading to death.
Treatment
Treatment regimens for internal parasites are similar to those for external parasites. Most commercial anti-protozoal and anti-worm agents are effective at treating internal parasites. They can be administered via gut-loaded ghost shrimp or Artemia, or by injecting the medicines into dead ghost shrimp.
Metronidazole (flagyl) is an effective treatment against internal protozoan infections. It must be ingested.
Niclosamide and Praziquantel are both effective against worm infections and must be administered through food to be effective. They may be somewhat difficult to obtain.
Freshwater Dips can be effective against some endoparasites such as flukes, though they are generally only effective at treating ectoparasites.
Ectoparasites (External Parasites)
Cryptocaryon irritans, Amyloodinium (Oodinium) ocellatum, Brooklynella hostilis, parasitic crustaceans, gill flukes, Glugea, etc.
Causes/Problems
Ectoparasitic infections are most often caused by poor quarantine and pre-treatment practices. Most wild fish, including seahorses, routinely harbour ectoparasites with no problems. When infected fish are put through the stress of capture and transportation, weeks in holding facilities without food, and the sometimes volatile conditions that can occur in closed systems such as aquariums, their immune systems are weakened, and the parasites are given a chance to overtake their host. With proper quarantine and treatment before being placed in the display aquarium, often ectoparasites can be eradicated with ease.
Symptoms:
* visible parasites upon examination manifested as white spots, ulcerations, blisters, etc.
* cloudy eyes
* scratching on substrate
* wild or erratic behaviour
* signs of stress (washed out coloration, rapid breathing, etc.)
External parasites can cause death by several means, the most common being direct parasitism (stealing vital nutrients from another organism's blood or other bodily fluid), suffocation, and opening the gates for secondary infections. External parasites can consume so much of their host's nutrients that the host may wither and die from malnutrition. Suffocation can be caused by severe infestation of the gills (gill flukes). Also, parasites often cause open sores along the body of their host, and this, compounded with stress due to lack of adequate nutrition, leads to internal secondary infection, usually by a bacterium.
Treatment
The best treatment for any parasitic disease is prevention by careful quarantine. If this is not feasible and parasites do emerge in the display tank, treatment options are wide. They must, however, be used in a quarantine tank.
Formalin is one of the most common and economical chemical treatments for external protozoans and flukes. It is best used as a dip per the instructions of the manufacturer.
Malachite Green is an effective chemical dye that can be used in treating most external parasites. Use as an extended treatment in quarantine per manufacturer's instructions.
Methylene Blue is a common medication with seahorses. Its therapeutic properties lessen some of the stress brought about by disease treatment. Use it as a dip or as a long-term quarantine treatment.
Freshwater Dips are extremely effective against gill flukes. Be sure to match the pH and temperature of the tank's water before proceeding with a dip of this kind.
