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Quarintine Tank Info

post #1 of 31
8/12/10 at 8:36pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, so I cleaned out my quarintine tank... I had left 60 gallons of tap water, live rock (that is now dead), sand, barely any salt, and aboslutly no light. It started to smell awful and there was scum starting to crust all over the glass. So what exactly do I need for this tank? It's a 60 gallon hexagon tank 27" X 24" X 28". I have salt, live sand, dead rock, I will be using RO water... and I will get a headpump to circulate the water. What power headpump should I get? Another 1400? Also, do I need filters for this tank too? I'd rather just try and keep it nice and simple, but if it's not possible then let me know. I also know I need to get lighting for it... what lighting should I get... since it's a quarintine tank I won't be putting coral in there... or will I want to?
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post #2 of 31
8/12/10 at 9:26pm
Your QT tank needs to be as basic as possible. Yours is more involved than most but it will work. Don't put any inverts or coral in it if your tank is for fish. The purpose of the tank is for new fish to monitor and treat if needed. If you have to treat, a lot of the meds will not work for inverts and coral. When I had a QT tank, it was just a 20g with pvc pipe.
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post #3 of 31
8/12/10 at 11:43pm
You can ditch the sand. It is best to go with a bare bottom (go with a balck stand or paint the bottom of the tank on the outside of the tank black). If you look in gthe disease and treatment sectio, there is a thread with more info.
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post #4 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:08am
Thread Starter 
What was the PVC pipe for? I was under the impression that you need your QT to have a whole nother environment apart from the main tank. So what exactly will I need? I thought I was going to need stuff because it will be in the tank for 3+ weeks while my other tank cycles. Really I'm reaching for a possible chance that the fish (if I get one anytime soon) could see itself in the QT for 6-10 weeks... would that be ok? And would I still want to stick with the bare essentials?
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post #5 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:19am
You really don't need much. A simple hang on the back filter will do. Get some basic lighting. Painting the bottom black would help to minimize light reflecting off of the bottom and possibly causing your fish to become dissoriented. Many people will just throw some pvc fittings inside the tank for some type of structure for fish to swim around or hide in to help minimize stress...etc. You really don't want any live sand or rock in your QT because if you do ever have to treat them with any type of medications they will absorb the meds thus throwing off the dosage as well as become contaminated for future use. PVC won't do that and that's why people use it inside the QT. 4-6 weeks is a descent amount of time to monitor your fish as long as nothing is wrong...or yes, it could take longer because you will have to treat them if there is.
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post #6 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:21am
Originally Posted by Sparty059 View Post
What was the PVC pipe for?
It provides hiding space for the fish. Filtration (helps to have filter floss that has soaked in the dt for 24 hours),powerhead, pc lights, heater, thermometer & magnifying glass (to examine fish). That's the basics. Ohhh refractometer, some meds just in case, & vitamins.
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post #7 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:21am
Originally Posted by Gemmy View Post
It provides hiding space for the fish. Filtration (helps to have filter floss that has soaked in the dt for 24 hours),powerhead, pc lights, heater, thermometer & magnifying glass (to examine fish). That's the basics. Ohhh refractometer, some meds just in case, & vitamins.
+1
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post #8 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:34am
I have a couple of questions about this as well, hope you don't mind me borrowing your thread Sparty. What is filter floss and how does it differ from normal filter cartridge? Also are you supposed to do any sort of cycling?
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post #9 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:38am
A filter floss is just a polyester fiber used to harbor beneficial bacteria and trap debris, a catridge contains carbon. The cycling process is done by placing filter floss in the dt for 24 hrs prior to placing in the qt. You also want to keep the qt water parameters identical to the dt.
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post #10 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:40am
Originally Posted by Rispa View Post
I have a couple of questions about this as well, hope you don't mind me borrowing your thread Sparty. What is filter floss and how does it differ from normal filter cartridge? Also are you supposed to do any sort of cycling?
Filter floss is the stuff on the front of a filter cartridge. You don't want the carbon in the tank as it will remove the meds if you dose the tank with anything.

The cycle in a QT tank is pretty much non existant. The soaked filter floss will hold a small amount of bacteria from the DT to seed the QT tank. You should always have water made and ready at a moments notice while housing live stock in a QT. Things happen fast in them. Its pretty much up to you to keep the water in check in a QT tank.
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post #11 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:55am
read thru this, it may help
http://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s...d.php?t=127007
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post #12 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:59am
Thread Starter 
Ok, so how often should I be doing my water changes? And will it be ok to do 10%?
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post #13 of 31
8/13/10 at 1:05am
Frequently. The water quality musy be identical to the dt. You must test it ans the results will dictate the size of the waterchange.
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post #14 of 31
8/13/10 at 1:08am
Thread Starter 
My DT hasn't been set up yet. I'm about 1 week away from starting the cycle in the DT. So how will I know what the quality must be in the QT if I haven't set up the DT yet even.
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post #15 of 31
8/13/10 at 10:50am
Thread Starter 
Is this fine for an over the back filter?
-Aqua Clear 70 Hang-On-Back Power Filter, UL Listed

Also, a Koralia Powerhead 600 should be fine for the water flow?

I will also get the eggshell create to put over the top of the tank, and what wattage lights should I get? 35W Florecent?
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post #16 of 31
8/13/10 at 12:18pm
Originally Posted by Sparty059 View Post
My DT hasn't been set up yet. I'm about 1 week away from starting the cycle in the DT. So how will I know what the quality must be in the QT if I haven't set up the DT yet even.
You know what the water parameters are supposed to be, yes? The reef tests don't matter in a QT tank if corals wont be going in there. Lets get a tank built and setup first, then we will worry about the water quality once it has water in it. Since you don't have a DT running, you don't get the benefit of filter floss or a sponge soaking in the DT for X-# of hrs.

Originally Posted by Sparty059 View Post
Is this fine for an over the back filter?
-Aqua Clear 70 Hang-On-Back Power Filter, UL Listed

Also, a Koralia Powerhead 600 should be fine for the water flow?

I will also get the eggshell create to put over the top of the tank, and what wattage lights should I get? 35W Florecent?

Sounds ok to me. I wouldn't run any media in the HOB filter. I also wouldn't plan on using the power head all the time. A sick fish will appericeate a more calm tank. When they are healthy then the extra flow will be a good thing.

That light will be just fine if QTing coral isn't in your future. Fish don't need much light, if any. Sick fish should you happen to get one, are more at ease with no light on. Just the ambient light from the room.
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post #17 of 31
8/13/10 at 3:58pm
Thread Starter 
Ok gotcha.

I was also looking into trying to breed copepads... is the QT tank the area I would want to do this in? I want to try and get as many as possible so then I have some food for a goby when I get it for my DT. My guess is you can never had too much food... right? So I figured I could start early and breed to make some copepads right now and then have a plentiful amount when I get the goby. Good idea or just another poor decision by this guy?
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post #18 of 31
8/13/10 at 5:51pm
Originally Posted by Sparty059 View Post
Ok gotcha.

I was also looking into trying to breed copepads... is the QT tank the area I would want to do this in? I want to try and get as many as possible so then I have some food for a goby when I get it for my DT. My guess is you can never had too much food... right? So I figured I could start early and breed to make some copepads right now and then have a plentiful amount when I get the goby. Good idea or just another poor decision by this guy?
Nope. You will need a seperate tank if you want to breed pods. The water needs to be changed pretty frequently and you keep it green in color with all the phyto for them to eat. You will also want to run air lift type pumps for circulation so they don't get killed in any impellers. A small tank too. A 2.5 or a 5 gallon is plenty IMO. Sand, rock, maybe some macro.

QT tanks are for QT only. It will be setup and then taken down and put away should the need ever arise to have it again. That's why they are kept so basic.
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post #19 of 31
8/13/10 at 10:06pm
Thread Starter 
Oh, I was going to keep it up at all times... I suppose I will take it down again once it's finished with its use... :(
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post #20 of 31
8/13/10 at 10:42pm
Thread Starter 
Also, if I put water in it right away and just leave a powerhead going for a day or two non-stop then will that mix the salt around enough? I feel that it's no different than if I were to do it in a bin or the tank.
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