I want to try SPS now.

you can do a calcium reactor but personally i like automated dosing better. it helps saves space and its easier to fine tune.

make sure you have an auto top off, this will help fight against swings. swings are your enemy when it comes to sps.

also consider an aquarium controller to help keep temperatures stable. aquarium controllers have optional auto top offs also so you could kill 2 birds with one stone.

keep revive or other dips readily available. protect yourself from aefw, redbugs, etc and you should be good to go. also consider a vortech mp40 to replace your powerheads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jrse7en 

I top off about a gallon of distilled everyday.  Is that ok?  I don't think I have the space for an auto top off kit.  Where the tank is at now is a little crowded with hardware.  There is no room underneath either.  I have 2 Vortech MP10s but only use one.  Right now I have a Koralia 3 blowing against the glass at an angle right where the return is located.  On the other side I have the MP10 facing against the other side with the purple light on which I think is reef mode.  I have enough flow right now that no food would ever hit the bottom if I raise up the pressure on my MP10.  What I am trying to achieve right now is obtaining different spots for high-flow high light, low-flow low light, moderate-flow moderate light etc.  I have tried all sorts of combinations with powerheads and rockwork. 
As far as keeping temperatures stable I found that my tank changes about 2 degrees from morning to night, year-round.  Is that really something I need to address and if so I think all I would need to do is raise the lighting fixture so that it doesn't warm up the tank as much.

 

like u, i also have no room for an ATO unit but found a slim 1.5g jug at walmart thats <2" wide that fit right behind my tank. i lose about 1g a day too depending on the humidity. ime, the ato helped alot for keeping salinity stable. you will notice alot of your sps start losing colors if theres too many salinity swings.

the mp10 + k3 should be fine. if you find that its still too week later on, add a 2nd mp10 on the other side and youll be golden.

2 degree swings are nothing once sps are accustomed to it so you should be fine. its amazing you can keep it that steady year round. i was able to keep my tank to 3 degree temp swings when i first started but then a sudden cold front 3 weeks ago caused my tank to have a 9 degree swing. i guess wear and tear on my heater added to that but i lost alot of my sps. having purchased an rkl, my tank has been a stable 78.5 for the past 1.5 weeks

what kind of sps all or lower light

get a controller and ato you can use 2 part dosing for cal and alk

sps success = consistency.

light, random flow, alkalinity and calcium levels are key.

so start small... dose 2 part ca and alk then when you see that its getting too much for you to do.. then get a reactor.

as far as sps placement start lower but with a good amount of flow... not directly in a powerheads path. 

i like ecotechs reef crest mode the best so invest in some vortechs. 

as far as your kelvin temps for your lighting.... 10k best growth i have seen.. but 14k more easy on the eyes and makes colors pop.

everyone is right about the ato.  you need one and  you will need to test more frequently until you get things growing well.

Im planning an SPS tank as well and an ATO wasn't on my list. I understand the equipment would be a huge asset for a larger tank but im doing a nano.  Do I need it?  I currently have a 20H and top off every other day with a pitcher of RO and have no problem maintaining SG at 1.024.  planned SPS is a 30 breeder.  in your opinion, can I expect to achieve the same level of consistency without an ATO if I maintain manual daily top offs?  

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jrse7en 

 Whats the priority of levels to test for?  I just tested my Calcium and Alk. and they are ideal for a reef aquarium.  I use  API test kits.  I'm also thinking about stitching my 15k bulbs out for some 20ks. 

you also need to test for phosphates, as well as nitrates from time to time. browing = high phosphates. its also about watching how much is depleted (calcium and alkalinity) over a period. and dose accordingly to keep it stable.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmonti 

Im planning an SPS tank as well and an ATO wasn't on my list. I understand the equipment would be a huge asset for a larger tank but im doing a nano.  Do I need it?  I currently have a 20H and top off every other day with a pitcher of RO and have no problem maintaining SG at 1.024.  planned SPS is a 30 breeder.  in your opinion, can I expect to achieve the same level of consistency without an ATO if I maintain manual daily top offs?  

a pitcher of RO in a tank that size seems like that would be a greater swing than .002 which would be alot. i know in my system, 50g total, i had to top off a gallon a day which would cause a swing of 1.025-1.027+ depending on the humidity. thats alot of swing for a 24 hr period.

IMO since it is a nano, you will be battling more swings because of a smaller amount of water volume. the slightest changes affect the entire column right away. you will not achieve the same level of consistency at all like an ato. my ato doesnt allow for more than .2" of evaporation to occur at my return section. you could minimize your swings by topping off more constantly throughout the day but it wouldnt be worth it especially if you're out throughout the day.
 

^+1

nikesb hit it right on the head.  in a nano it is very easy to get temp and salinity swings.  ato is important to keep it stable between water changes.

jrse7en... i would get salifert test kits for caclium and alkalinity.  i would get a hanna meter (the cheaper one) for you phosphate.  api is good not the best or most accurate but it does give you an idea of what your parameters are.