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Why is my PH unstable?

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 

I have a 55 gallon FOWLR tank which has been running for about 3 1/2 months. Levels are as follows:

 

Ammonia: 0

Nitrites: 0

Nitrates: 5

Phosphate: 0

 

My issue is that my PH has been very unstable.  

 

The only additives I have used are Kent Purple Tech (which I assumed would raise calcium and help to grow coraline) and Precision PH buffer.  My PH is normally around 8.0 but lately it has been very unstable.

 

I recently bought ALK and CA test kits as well.

I tested CA which was over 500 and ALK which was around 8.

As a result I added PH buffer in hopes it would bring my ALK and PH level up

2 days later I retested PH which was 7.6, ALK was 16 and CA was still around 500

I did nothing and waited another 24 hours and retested, now my PH is 7.8, ALK is 15, and CA is 430

 

 

I opened up a window in the house to get some fresh air near the tank.  I have plenty circulation and surface agitation (3 powerheads, penguin 350 biowheel, Rena XP3 canister filter) I thought it may be a case of my tank being overstocked, however I currently only have 5 fish (all about 2-21/2 inches).

 

WHAT DO I DO? 

 

 

 

post #2 of 27

Do a large water change and then stop overdosing Alkalinity and Calcium.

post #3 of 27
Thread Starter 

OK thanks

 

I Just did a 20% change.  Should I stop dosing all together? Or just uses smaller doses? 

post #4 of 27

In a FOWLR, regularly scheduled water changes should be enough. There are no corals to soak up the Alk and Ca that is provided by the fresh salt water. Test your next batch of water before you add it to your tank and see what the readings are.

post #5 of 27
Thread Starter 

OK i will test the water i have been getting from the LFS on my next WC probably right before Xmas.  (add report back)

 

So in FOLWR tank is it even neccessary to add CA & PH supplements? I was attempting to add CA to grow coraline on my LR but i feel like it will just throw off my PH, ALK, and CA levels and make my life more difficult. 

 

It sounds like for a FOWL, the frequent WCs should be sufficient for coraline growth? and that I should just leave my tank alone.  lol (which is soo hard to do haha)

 

Also based on some research I have done, it seems that a lower PH (7.8 - 8.0) is actually not bad as long as it is stable?

 

Im willing to bet that my low PH issue is directly caused by high CO2 in my house, but is it really that neccessary to tinker with my PH unless it get below 7.8?

 


Thanks to BTLDreef and Bang Guy for your responses, much appreciated!

 

 

 

post #6 of 27

7.8-8.4 is fine, you just need it to be stable.  The Ca supplement could very well be throwing off your numbers. Over time your coralline will grow, just from the Ca in the salt and lighting, nothing else in your tank is using it. I wouldn't supplement a FOWLR.

 

Try to get your own RO unit, or purchase just RO from your LFS (Walmart sells it as well) and mix the salt yourself at home. You'll get more consistency, trust me. I have seen stores selling "fresh made saltwater" and all the do is take water out of their systems.

 

 

post #7 of 27

Just wanted to add:

pH can fluctuate throughout the day. You'll usually get a higher reading once your lights have been on for a long period of time (end of day) and a lower reading when they e been off for a while (beginning of day). Try to test at the same times as much as possible. A slight fluctuation from say to night is fine, but you don't want a huge swing.

Consistency really is key.

post #8 of 27
Thread Starter 

The Water I have been using for water changes is Ocean Water from the LFS.  I will test the PH, ALK, CA level next time I buy.  Then after maybe I will switch to RO which my LFS also sells.  THANKs again

post #9 of 27

Ocean Water? I never heard of that brand of salt. Sounds iffy to me. They should tell you the brand of salt, so that you can look it up online and find out what is in it, ca, alk, mag etc.

 

If you buy RO water from the store and buy your own salt to mix, it's much better, HOWEVER, if you do go this way, try to invest in a good refractometer to measure your salt content before and after water changes. Keeping salinity, temp, and parameters stable is key to success in this hobby.

post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 

NO lol,  The water I get from the LFS is actual Ocean Water (at least that what they say).  "Ocean Water" isnt the type of salt lol sorry if I wasnt clear.  I have assumed that the "Ocean Water" they sell comes directly from the Ocean.

post #11 of 27
Thread Starter 

Regardless, I will be switching to RO water and will mix the salt myself.

 

Any suggestions on salt brands?

 

Instant Ocean?

Oceanic?

Coralife?

Reef Crystals?

Ocean Water? lol 

post #12 of 27

Do you live directly on the coast? Do they go way offshore to collect their water?

 

Coastal saltwater is full of pollutants, waste, chemicals, and other debris. Not to mention, if the saltwater sits in a container for any period of time, the microorganisms living within the water column start to die and just add even more nitrate and phosphate to the water. If they are worried about getting enough microfauna in their water, they could probably do a plankton tow for a lot cheaper than collected seawater.

 

Just check to make sure what you are getting. You never know. Test your water - and test it for nitrate and phosphate as well.

post #13 of 27


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by anolan2 View Post

Regardless, I will be switching to RO water and will mix the salt myself.

 

Any suggestions on salt brands?

 

Instant Ocean?

Oceanic?

Coralife?

Reef Crystals?

Ocean Water? lol 



For a fish only system - look into instant ocean. If you really want to see coralline algae growth, go with IO Reef Crystals and be sure you have halfway decent lighting and flow rates. It will spread.

post #14 of 27

I'd go with RO and mixing your own. You live close to the shore, so it being ocean water is possible, but depending on how they collect it, it could be inconsistent.

For a FOWLR, Instant Ocean should be fine.

post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 

Yes these are questions I should have been asking at the LFS.  

 

I have tested the "Ocean Water" for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and Phosphate which were all 0 but have yet to test for PH, ALK, and CA

 

I live in Northern California, on the coast, but I do not know how far off shore they go to get it.

 

I do know that they keep the "Ocean Water" well circulated at all times before selling

 

RO is sounding better and better

post #16 of 27
Thread Starter 

I will go with RO water and Instant Ocean Salt. 

 

Thanks BTLDreef and SnakeBlitz!

post #17 of 27

Where's the 33????  lol j/k

 

Glad we could help. :D

post #18 of 27
Thread Starter 

SnakeBlitz33,

 

Is there a difference between "IO Reef Crystals" and "IO Reef Crystals Reef Salt"

 

I see 2 different salt mixes available at petco, petsmart, the "Reef Salt" version being significantly less expensive

post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 

ahh, nevermind, they are the same, just two diferent packaging.

post #20 of 27

Incorrect, dear sir!

 

Reef Crystals have higher calcium, alkalinity, magnesium levels than standard IO salt.

 

By slowly increasing the salinity of the water to 1.026, you will also increase the amount of calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium in the water column available for coralline algaes to grow.

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