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New to the Saltwater Fish only hobby. Not having good luck...

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Hello everyone. I'm a hobbyist that has had freshwater for over 30 years now. I recently sold many of my fish tanks (13 - 75 gallon tanks) and switched to saltwater. My plan was to liquidate all my freshwater tanks and purchase a saltwater setup. Now I have done so. Sold all my tanks and used that money to buy a used 120 gallon tank with everything. Meaning the tank, stand, lights, protein skimmer, Wet dry, and the tank came with 150+ of Live Rock. Kept the live rock alive using a garbage can with heater and power head till the tank was plumbed and piped.

I set up the tank and had it running for a week. My water parameters were perfect. PH at 8.3, Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate at zero. Temp at 78 and salinity at 1.024.

I went out to purchase my first fish and this is when my problems started… I purchased a puffer (needle nose to be exact). Reason is that my wife liked them so much and he was cheap. After a 1hr, slow drip acclimation he was introduced to my tank. He hid right away and I never saw him in the tank. Only on occasion I would see him hiding in the live rock. He never ate and after 3 days, I found him dead. I immediately checked the parameters again, and they were perfect.

I then when out to buy another fish. This time I went with a Huma Trigger. He's doing great to this day. Love this little guy (3-inch). This was roughly 3 weeks ago.

To keep him company, A few days later I went and picked up a Blue Jaw trigger. 1hr acclimation with a slow drip. The Huma and him had a minor scrap but nothing serious. I have a wall of Live rock with all kinds of hiding spots. The then left each other alone. He did the same thing as the puffer I described earlier and hid and never ate. Soon after 2 days or so, I found him dead and removed him immediately. No bite marks and looked fine physically. Just faded and dead…Checked my parameters and again, my parameters are perfect.  Huma doing great and eating and begging for food as usual…

Last week, I purchased my dream fish. A clown trigger. He's double the size of the Huma, roughly 6 inches. Doing great, eating well and loving this fish. I planned on getting one when I was looking for a tank. I now have the Huma and him in the tank and they are like pals. No fighting what so ever. The Clown is 6 inches and the Huma is 3 inches.

After 2 days, I noticed the Clown and the huma have ich. Now I sold all my tanks and wasn’t expecting this. I cant do a quarantine because I spent a lot on salt, I had to replace some lighting ect… I couldn’t dump the money on a QT yet.. After much research, Copper or Hypo is the way to go. I don't plan on ever having inverts (I like fish) so I opted to use copper. I pulled out all live rock and have them in a Garbage can (used earlier) with a powerhead and heater. Checking the parameters on their garbage can, the water is pristine. I'm now treating my 120 (bare bottom) with copper. My parameters are somewhat ok. My Ammonia is up to .25 PPM and the Nitrate is up to 5 PPM. My nitrite is at zero and my PH is holding at 8.3 . My wetdry has bio balls and removed the carbon. turned down the protein skimmer (still running but closed the venturi so that its not dry foaming as much as it should. Turned off the UV sterilizer and attached it to the garbage can so If there is any ich in the live rock it can be killed when free born. I plan on treating for 1 month.

My clown trigger and Huma are doing ok. They are eating just fine and my copper level is at 2.0. With no live rock to hide in, I put in a couple pieces of PVC pipe so they can sleep or hide at night.

I now know having a quarantine tank is the way to go whenever I buy a new fish. My question is, that I came across this site (and been told) that your fish that you sell here on saltwaterfish.com are healthy. I am nervous about this. I am afraid of buying a fish online because I can't see the fish that I'm buying. Can anyone out there validate that the fish are disease free. Does this distributor take precautions to make sure the fish that they ship out are disease free? I complained to the petstore I bought the fish from and he tells me all fish have ich.... Not sure what he means by this. Im not sure if I want to go back to him after this comment.

I feel the pet shops I went to (even thou the fish looked healthy) sold me sick fish. I'm looking for backup from others that purchased fish from this site and  that were healthy. Any confidence building pointers would be greatly appreciated as well.... Anything you can suggest would help. Thank you.

post #2 of 15

First welcome.

I would QT any thing wet, because of what you are going threw now. Only way to know if fish (or anything wet) is safe to add to your DT is to do your own QT. I would take the UV off the LR and put it back on DT, leave the LR without fish for 8 weeks and ick will die off. There two things that concerns me your tank is new and haven't had time to establish a good bacteria growth to handle the bio load from those two triggers, have a bottle of amqual + on hand and keep a eye on your ammonia. The second thing you have two triggers together and one is a clown (the meanest trigger there is) they will not be friends for long. The queen will win.

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the reply Mr. Limpid. Im aware of the Clown, Did some research and just fine with having him as a lone specimen over time. Fact is Ive always wanted one since I was a kid. He's so aware of humans, that makes it ok. My UV... It says to turn off the UV on the instructions of the Medication. I will take your advice and put the UV back on the DT. Not sure why they would say that.... to turn off the UV. Ive read that some say turn off the protein skimmer and others say leave it on. Any thought on that?

 

I will not add the live rock back in the DT until the 8 week suggestion. That makes sense. Im testing and following the tanks parameters closely. I will purchase some amquel like you said and have it on hand. I also have Prime on hand and that says you can use that as well, incase of a Ammonia spike. I have been doing water changes every day for the past 3 days. Small partial water changes with pre mixed  water from another storage garbage can. Im doing this to try and keep the Ammonia level low. I have also been adding the theraputic level of copper in the pre mixed water. The tank, so you know, was established when I purchased it. Its a used tank that was set up in a High School Library. Purchased it from a company that leased tanks and stocked them. Im sure youve seen them before in public areas. I was not expecting that saltwater fish were a roll of the dice when you buy them. Meaning now I feel that anytime I buy a fish its going to be a gamble. Not used to that.

 

Any pointers for future purchases would be appreciated.

 

Does this company (saltwaterfish.com) sell disease free fish? (I know that these fish are wild, but wonder if they quarantene there fish as well once they get them)

 

Does the phrase from my local pet store make sense? "all fish have ich"

 

Another line that threw me off was that this petstore said that UV's dont kill Ich. It just clarifies the water. Ive read this before and was under the impression that UV's stop pathegens and kill parasites... Is not the case?

 

Finally, Heres something that I dont get by all suggestions ive read on many threads...

Quaranteen any fish that is sick by removing the fish (It would have to be all fish so no spread and regeneration of the parasites) to the quaranteen tank. Now when the fish is healthy again, you throw it back in the DT that has Ich? Doesnt make sense to me. To me, destroying the parasite in the display tank makes sense to me. Now I can see this to be the case for hobbyists that have inverts and fish... but your constantly battling ich forever....

 

post #4 of 15



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantek134 View Post

Thanks for the reply Mr. Limpid. Im aware of the Clown, Did some research and just fine with having him as a lone specimen over time. Fact is Ive always wanted one since I was a kid. He's so aware of humans, that makes it ok. My UV... It says to turn off the UV on the instructions of the Medication then i would leave it off. I will take your advice and put the UV back on the DT follow the instructions. Not sure why they would say that.... to turn off the UV. Ive read that some say turn off the protein skimmer and others say leave it on. Any thought on that? what I know is during hypo it doesn't work not sure about copper, i would watch it to see if it over flows if not I would leave it on.

 

I will not add the live rock back in the DT until the 8 week suggestion. That makes sense. Im testing and following the tanks parameters closely. I will purchase some amquel like you said and have it on hand. I also have Prime this will work fine no need for the amquel on hand and that says you can use that as well, incase of a Ammonia spike. I have been doing water changes every day for the past 3 days. Small partial water changes with pre mixed  water from another storage garbage can. Im doing this to try and keep the Ammonia level low. I have also been adding the theraputic level of copper in the pre mixed water are you test the copper levels with the same manufacture test kit?. The tank, so you know, was established when I purchased it. Its a used tank that was set up in a High School Library. Purchased it from a company that leased tanks and stocked them. Im sure youve seen them before in public areas. I was not expecting that saltwater fish were a roll of the dice when you buy them. Meaning now I feel that anytime I buy a fish its going to be a gamble you got it. Not used to that. If you read the thread by Beth in the disease form it will explain the life of ick, then you will understand why.

 

Any pointers for future purchases would be appreciated. start with the compatibility chart then ask question.

 

Does this company (saltwaterfish.com) sell disease free fish? (I know that these fish are wild, but wonder if they quarantene there fish as well once they get them) I have no experience with on line purchases, I feel the same as you.

 

Does the phrase from my local pet store make sense? "all fish have ich" sorry but true, I actual think he is a better LFS for saying so. He should of sold you a QT set up then. He missed a sale.

 

Another line that threw me off was that this petstore said that UV's dont kill Ich. It just clarifies the water. Ive read this before and was under the impression that UV's stop pathegens and kill parasites... Is not the case? UV does kill ick, but it has to pass threw it first, not 100% of all tank water passes through your UV. UV's are not worth the money, but since you have it I would use it. But when the life of the bulb is gone I wouldn't replace it.

 

Finally, Heres something that I dont get by all suggestions ive read on many threads...

Quaranteen any fish that is sick by removing the fish (It would have to be all fish so no spread and regeneration of the parasites) to the quaranteen tank correct. Now when the fish is healthy again, you throw it back in the DT that has Ich after DT has set for 8 weeks fish less? Doesnt make sense to me. To me, destroying the parasite in the display tank makes sense to me. Now I can see this to be the case for hobbyists that have inverts and fish... but your constantly battling ich forever....Once ick life cycle is over there will be no ick present. People who say that have not completely stop there life cycle, if one ick is left it will soon become hundreds and so on.

 



 

post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks again Mr. Limpid.

 

I will leave the UV off the DT.

 

I will keep the UV in the Live Rock container. I beleive the UV will do what it says. The container (garbage can) is at 50 gallons with 2 water circulators (one pointing up in the front for oxygen and the other down for rolling circulation). Again the water quality in the container is pristine. Perfect...with a heater to keep it at 79 degrees. Im treating the live rock if they were fish. Im hoping that in one month the live rock container will be cured of ich with the UV sterilizer, but may opt for the 8 week suggestion. I dont want to cut corners for no reason...

 

I will use the Prime in extreme cases of a huge spike. Water changes will continue in the main tank.

 

Yes, I have a test kit to measure chelated copper. Im keeping it at 2-2.5 PPM in the DT. When I dosed the water tank, I measured the copper and have been double checking the levels in the storage tank before I add it to the DT. I have also been checking the DT a few hours after the water change. Giving it time to mix. Also checking the DT before I do water changes. The copper level is stable. Probably because its bare bottom and no LR in the tank.

 

I got it... yes, I was afraid of that. Not knowing and rolling the dice everytime.... that sux (lol).... This guy at the pet shop does seem like a good guy. I prefer to make them feed the fish before I buy. I did that and made sure no physical signs of illness present before I buy, but still run into sudden dealth. I couldnt understand, I checked my water to make sure before adding fish and the water was fine. I even brought a water sample to the Pet Store and he checked it and said it was good and should be ok. Tried to cover my bases but still ran into mysterious deaths.

 

I know about UV's from fresh water. The one I have is rated for 125 gallons. The bulb is 3 months old and wasnt used continuously. I am aware that they deteriorate over time. Every 6 months is the standard replacement time, if Im not mistaken. The main thing is having a pump rated at the GPH recommended for the correct exposure or dwell time. This insures iradication and or sterilizes larger parastites so they cant reproduce. My UV on the live rock container is flowing at 100 GPH. Thats twice the water volume every hour.

 

Also, yes, I have read many articles on the life span and cycle of ich. I know with copper it kills them at larval stage. Thanks for that.

 

IVe read that the treatment of copper must be done for one month on more than one article. With no copper your advice is 8 weeks.Thats something I didnt know.

 

Thank you again for your time and giving me the knowledge and pointing me in the right direction.

 

I really, really appreciate it. :)

 

post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantek134 View Post

Thanks again Mr. Limpid.

 

I will leave the UV off the DT.

 

I will keep the UV in the Live Rock container UV will kill anything that passes through it even good bacteria. I beleive the UV will do what it says. The container (garbage can) is at 50 gallons with 2 water circulators (one pointing up in the front for oxygen and the other down for rolling circulation). Again the water quality in the container is pristine. Perfect...with a heater to keep it at 79 degrees ghost feed the container to keep bactera alive and copods. Im treating the live rock if they were fish. Im hoping that in one month the live rock container will be cured of ich with the UV sterilizer only kills if passes through it, but may opt for the 8 week suggestion only sure way to kill 100% of ick witout copper or hypo. I dont want to cut corners for no reason...

 

I will use the Prime in extreme cases of a huge spike. Water changes will continue in the main tank.

 

Yes, I have a test kit to measure chelated copper. Im keeping it at 2-2.5 PPM in the DT. When I dosed the water tank, I measured the copper and have been double checking the levels in the storage tank before I add it to the DT. I have also been checking the DT a few hours after the water change. Giving it time to mix. Also checking the DT before I do water changes. The copper level is stable. Probably because its bare bottom and no LR in the tank.

 

I got it... yes, I was afraid of that. Not knowing and rolling the dice everytime.... that sux (lol).... This guy at the pet shop does seem like a good guy. I prefer to make them feed the fish before I buy. I did that and made sure no physical signs of illness present before I buy, but still run into sudden dealth. I couldnt understand, I checked my water to make sure before adding fish and the water was fine. I even brought a water sample to the Pet Store and he checked it and said it was good and should be ok. Tried to cover my bases but still ran into mysterious deaths.

 

I know about UV's from fresh water. The one I have is rated for 125 gallons. The bulb is 3 months old and wasnt used continuously. I am aware that they deteriorate over time. Every 6 months is the standard replacement time, if Im not mistaken. The main thing is having a pump rated at the GPH recommended for the correct exposure or dwell time. This insures iradication and or sterilizes larger parastites so they cant reproduce. My UV on the live rock container is flowing at 100 GPH. Thats twice the water volume every hour.

 

Also, yes, I have read many articles on the life span and cycle of ich. I know with copper it kills them at larval stage. Thanks for that.

 

IVe read that the treatment of copper must be done for one month on more than one article. With no copper your advice is 8 weeks.Thats something I didnt know.

 

Thank you again for your time and giving me the knowledge and pointing me in the right direction.

 

I really, really appreciate it. :) glad I could help, I sure need a place like this when I first started, would of saved me a ton of money and the loss of fish lives.

 



 

post #7 of 15

i have noticed that over the last 20+ years fish more often do carry ich.a qt for new fish is a must as you just found out.personally i think a uv is not worth the money.i wont kill all the ich in the tank.so why bother.it would help on a small 20 gallon qt seeing it passes alot more of the tank volumn through it.i know there are plenty of people here that order online and this place is top notch.

when i go to my lfs i always ask how long they have had the fish,i make sure i see it eat and i tell them it is going to a qt.i ask what salinity they keep their tanks at also.

a couple things you will find out fast are saltwater and freshwater are way different and you usually learn by an empty wallet if you dont do research first.when i started the internet was just starting and i had to rely on the lfs advice.which cost me thousands

post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the advice Jeff.

 

I will be going with a QT tank when ever I stock or restock my tank. If I  someday part with my Clown Trigger, and want to go with a variety of fish, I will quaranteen first. Its not worth it to try other tank mates at this time. Im aware the Clown Trigger will eventually kill everything in my tank.

 

Im still not convinced on having fish shipped unless they can send me a video of the exact fish eating in thier holding tank. My main concern is the fish not eating when he arrives and withers and dies.

 

Ive only lost $80 so far in fish... I will be extra cautious when I restock my Display Tank. I will do one fish at a time or 2 small fish each time.

 

Great idea on asking how long they had the fish. Thats a great question. My local pet store has thier salinity at .018 and he said that he has copper running on all of his centralized saltwater tanks.

 

Also, this guy at the pet store near me says that you can leave the live rock in when you use copper and said that copper is the best way to rid your tank of ich. He said it wont kill the bacteria in the live rock but found on the internet that that is not the case. The live rock will die and absorb the copper. Thats why I removed the LR. Im glad I did and not take the advice from the pet shop.

 

I did do research on saltwater but never came across the idea that all saltwater fish have ich....I am trying to gain knowledge but to give you an idea this is what I come accross while doing some research.

-Copper is easier to treat than hypo. Hypo is not easy because of PH fluctuations. This is more stressful than using copper on the fish. My fish for example show no signs of stress. Eager as usual to eat. Maybe because I have Triggers which are hardy.

- Using lower salinity (around .018) keeps the ich in check. Anyone having fish only should have the salinity at .018 so the fish stay disease free. Is this the case? I read another thread saying thats a bunch of BS... Is this the right thing to do for a fish only tank?

-Once you put copper in your tank you will never be able to use the tank for inverts. Ran accross an article or thread where a guy who used copper in his DT. After a few months of regular water changes, he has no problem with crabs, shrimps, and turbo snails in his copper treated tank. He took everything out, used the copper, removed the copper and put the live rock and live sand back in. A few months went by (with water changes) and now has inverts that are doing great. Is this true? Some are saying yes definitly and others say no after a few months you can house inverts in that tank if you want.

-UV sterilizers are good for disease control. As you stated and others (like the guy at the petstore) a UV wont kill ich. I know to over size my UV on my tank(s) with freshwater and I never had issues with ich or any other pathagen. Because its saltwater, are the parasites more hardy to withstand a blast of UV light? 

-If you have cleaner wrasse or cleaner shrimp, you never have to worry about ich. I was told this by the guy who sold me my present DT. He's been in the hobby for 30 plus years....One article I ran across says that this is not the case and says that the shrimps or wrasse cant get the parasite once its dug in. They will only peck at the tissue surrounding the spot they entered. Why then have cleaner shrimp and why have cleaner wrasse when they cant get the most common type of parasite that all fish have? Are the hobbyists misguided or do they help?

 

Ive been reading and researching on what to do. This is the main reason I started this thread to find the best answer. Rather than reading on what one hobbyist says, which is different then what another hobbyist says. It is confusing. Needless to say that using UV's for disease control over the years (and has always worked for freshwater) is (now for some reason) not an option with saltwater. I wonder why this is... Im totaly clueless on this. UV's worked so well that if one fish was sick, the rest stayed healthy and the fish that was sick stayed sick and the other fish stayed healthy. It actually prevented a spread of the disease or parasite. Kept it under control. I cant say anything but good things about a UV light.

 

Thank you again Jeff for your input. I appreciate it!

 

 


Edited by Lantek134 - 12/27/11 at 6:08pm
post #9 of 15

sorry but way too much writing at this time.but i did skim through.ug where to start.

first if the lfs said you can leave the lr in for copper do not go there again.the live rock will absorb the copper and so will the silicone .the problem with copper in the live rock isnt it killing the good bacteria its killing all the living organisms on and in it.creating a huge ammonia spike that will 99.999999% of the time nuke the tank and kills everything in it.now there is opinion about using copper in a tank with no rock or sand and not being able to keep inverts or corals after .imo no i coppered my 250 tank 3 years ago when i had a nasty ich outbreak i brought in on a couple corals.they sell copper absorbing pads to remove it.i used them for two months after treatment and today i have 50+ corals shrimp,snails crabs you name it in there .

i like to hypo with ph buffer.if you have not realized it yet copper test kits are a real pain to read.seems the color difference is too close.if you dont use enough it dont work and a little too much and its toxic.as for 1.018 keeping ich at check thats a big BS .anything over 1.009 and ich lives.

by the way this site has a 14 day guarantee on their fish. if i didnt have a great lfs i would order from here.i have ordered online in the past and still do for clean up crews because the packages are alot better than the lfs.i have always been happy with everything.

one more thing uv will kill ich but not all of it.it also kills good bacteria ,little critters fish eat and the bulbs dont last more than 6 months.to me it aint worth having.

to sum up ich.ich is a parasite like a flea.it just dont pop up on its own.it has to be introduced usually by fish but anything wet can have it.now most online venders keep their inverts seperate from fish .this is good ich dont live off of inverts just fish.but in the free swimming stage looking for a host it can come on anything wet.so when i buy snails online i dont worry and just put them in my dt.fish any fish i qt.it only takes one ich to multiply and you really wont see a couple on a fish.

post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thank you for taking the time to read thru and answer my questions.

I didn't know they have such a long guarantee on their fish. The pet shop I go to, does not have a guarantee on any live stock. I will try saltwaterfish.com for my next purchase. A guarantee means they care for the fish and their customers. That's enough for me.

Thanks for the heads up on the copper use of a tank. I think someday I will have inverts when my experience gets better. I will use the copper absorbing pads, when I need to remove it. I will follow your advice.

Everything you said makes complete sense.

Thank you for your time, help with my issue and clearing up some questionable opinions. You seem very knowledgeable.

I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and time.

 

post #11 of 15

 

My, LFS advise can really be bad.  Copper will kill off just about every thing you pay so much to have on your live rock.

 

Quarantine, as you have learned, is the best way to go when keeping fish tanks.  You will need to go ahead and QT your fish and perform hyposalinity on them.  Hyposalinity is the really the only treatment open to you right now because you don't have a cycled QT (quarantine tank).

 

Also, take it easy introducing new fish to a new tank.  You don't want to overload a new tank that doesn't have much of a biofilter.

 

Here is the procedure for hyposalinity.

 

http://forums.saltwaterfish.com/a/hyposalinity

 

 

 

post #12 of 15

Unfortunately Beth he is already doing copper, so do not try to hypo your fish while running copper, this is bad. Also running your tank at .018 does nothing to prevent ick only stress out your fish, ick life cycle will only end at salinity level of .009. Yes PH levels will drop while doing hypo, you just need to test and add buffers thus no stress to fish. Never add inverts after adding copper to tank, it depends on the type of copper, cupermind (not sure on spelling) will not be absorbed into LR stays in water column. In time and many water changes and test for copper, you be able to add inverts, I'm have done it in my DT and now have inverts living again in it. Cleaner wrasse (most) only eat of fish, our tanks do not enough fish to maintain their life, better choice is neon goby they will except other foods. Cleaner shrimp, better choice as a cleaner, they will except other foods. All cleaners will not clean a fish 100% plus most of our fish are to small, cleaners can not get into there gills, this is a prime location for ick to infest.Most people have cleaners is because they like watching the cleaning, not for the parasite removal. UV light work, but not if the organism never goes though it. The only way for a UV to be 100% effective is to have all your tanks water pass through the unit and dump into another tank, with out transferring any thing wet from the original tank. Only then will the new tank be parasite free.  

post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for repying Beth and thanks again Mr. Limpid.

 

I appreciate the advice and knowledge for gaining a better understanding of the correct and proper procedures.

 

Thank you.

post #14 of 15

you are welcome. Keep asking questions you may not here what you want and some people have different opinions. But everyone here is just trying to help each other. The only thing I know for sure there isn't one set rule for anything, you can always find someone that has success doing something a little different.

post #15 of 15

i like to hypo with ph buffer.if you have not realized it yet copper test kits are a real pain to read.seems the color difference is too close.if you dont use enough it dont work and a little too much and its toxic.as for 1.018 keeping ich at check thats a big BS .anything over 1.009 and ich lives.

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