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Calcium levels?

post #1 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:11am
Thread Starter 

I tested calcium for the first time this morning and the levels were very high, it tested at 520. How could I lower that? Everything else is fine, nitrite, nitrate, and amonia all at 0. KH at 9dKH phosphate is almost 0 it was 0.25, and pH is around 8.0. I have also been having a hard time stabilizing the water temp, the heater has a thermostat but it always is wrong, should I just set it for a temp and leave it there? I would like to add a clown and a mushroom tomarrow if the everything is still ok but how do I fix the calcium?

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post #2 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:14am

Assuming this is a new tank with no corals?

Your Ca level is high because there is nothi g in your tank consuming it. That level will not harm anything.

What is your pH?

How much temperature fluctuation are you getting?

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post #3 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:30am
Thread Starter 

Well here is the funny thing.....I tested pH 3 times this morning because I got a color that wasn't even on the card so I did it again, no luck....I added a little more buffer cuz yesterday it was a little low after I added the buffer still and I tested again, I got a purpley violet color which I put down as the light purple color and it was 7.9. For the temp I was getting 74.5 so I raised it to the 76 degree mark and it went to 77.4 so should I set it to 77 if I want it to be 78? I'm so confused I just don't know what to do with the temp. If everything checks out ok tomarrow and the pH is up and temp is stable would I be able to add fish?

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post #4 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:52am

Don't go crazy chasing numbers...been there, done that.

 

As for your pH, do you have sufficient surface agitation? Use a skimmer? Have macro algae somewhere in the system? If not, investigate their use and their contribution to recommended pH. Also note that pH can vary throughout the day. What time did you test? pH should rise during full light hours. Test your pH at the same time of day to detect trends; avoid "snapshots" that may lead you astray.

 

What test kit are you using? It sounds like API. I use both API and Salifert and despise color cards. Take that pH buffer stuff and fling it out the back door.

 

As for temp, what kind of thermometer do you have? Where is it placed in relation to your heater? Forget the numbers on your heater. Look at the thermometer. If the temp reading is lower that you'd like, turn up the heater slightly. Adjust again tomorrow. Stability is what you are after.

 

Calm down.

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post #5 of 11
12/29/11 at 9:10am
Thread Starter 

I do use a skimmer, I tested pH in the morning. I have a marineland submersible heater 100 wats good for aquariums up to 29 gallons. I am using a digital thermometer. The probe for the thermometer is on the opposite side of the aquariums then the heater. And yes I do use API test kits.

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post #6 of 11
12/29/11 at 9:51am

I agree with Slice, don't stress over numbers. STOP using the pH buffer. Testing the pH right after you've used the buffer is not going to give you an accurate reading. You need to test 12-24 hours after the buffer was introduced.

Testing your pH first thing in the morning will give you the lowest reading. As your lights are on throughout the day, the pH will rise. The goal is to not have too much of a difference in the low and high number. For new aquarium setups, I recommend that you test the pH 3 times throughout the day to get an accurate measurement of what your pH is doing throughout the day. Test once first thing in the morning when the lights are first on, or just about to go on, then again in the middle of the light cycle and then once right before they go out or right after they go out. If the three numbers are consistently close, no worries. Mine goes from 8-8.15, but I also have a refugium to keep things in balance.

The API kit is tough to read, in time, invest in a pH probe, they're easier and more accurate. For the API card, as long as you're in the color range on it, and it's consistently the same color, or close to the same color, leave it be. I wouldn't be buffering a new system.

Don't stress about the Ca, in time, if you add corals, you'll wish you still had that number or close to that number.

 

As for the temp, I'm not a fan of Marineland heaters (Really not a fan of Marineland anything to be honest), but it's what you have. Turn the dial up a little and let it go for a day and see what you get. 77-80 is the range you want to be in, but consistency is what matters. As long as you're getting a stable temperature, RELAX. If it's 76 this morning and 80 this afternoon, that's when you need to start stressing.

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post #7 of 11
12/29/11 at 5:47pm
I think a good peace of advice is be on point of everything before you add fish. You don't want to have fish in there and have the tep go up and you not know how to bring it down. If I gets to hot in ther for your fish it will stress them out and I had to learn that my self. I guess just try to be prepare for anything.
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post #8 of 11
12/29/11 at 7:38pm
Thread Starter 

I finally figured it out. My heater was in the corner of the tank whith no water flow so I put it in direct aim of a nozzle comming from the skimmer and filters in the back and I have been at a stable 77 degrees almost all day. Also the pH I have tested three times today, one in the morning, one when the lights go on, and one when they go off all came in at the same color, but thanks for everyone's help!

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post #9 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:44pm
Thread Starter 

I was wondering if I did get a bit of macro alger would I be able to put it in the big filter in the back of the tank where the bio balls and activated carbon go? My LFS told me to take it out and I was wondering if I could just put in a peice of rock with macro algae in where those would be instead of having it in the viewing area of the tank?

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post #10 of 11
12/29/11 at 8:50pm

Yeah, I'de say get rid of the bioballs and add some macroalgae when you can.

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post #11 of 11
12/29/11 at 10:11pm

I agree, but make sure that the macro gets light.

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