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75 gallon tank build! - Page 10

post #181 of 247
2/8/12 at 7:34am

Looks nice and sturdy!!!

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post #182 of 247
2/8/12 at 11:13am
Thread Starter 

Thanks! Painting it black tonight, it will match my other stand perfect! Then its onto plumbing the system together.

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post #183 of 247
2/9/12 at 5:45am
Thread Starter 
So alot of progress since my last post, my stand has a nice coat of paint, and all the plumbing is done, yay!

261
There is the mess of plumbing, it wasn't easy for sure.
I overlooked a part, and realized the mistake after it was already together. I bought a new union to go in between the ball valve and the tee on the line going to my refuge, opps ;P

261
There is the whole set up, just need to add sand now!
Only had one little leak, the bulkhead on my overflow box leaked slightly, but I fixed that problem for good...hopefully!
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post #184 of 247
2/9/12 at 6:09am

Looking good!

I really like the idea of a display fuge.

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post #185 of 247
2/9/12 at 6:23am
Thread Starter 
Thanks man!, I'm hoping I like it too, right now I feel like its slightly over crowded, but hopefully once I get some stuff in the tank it will look nice and distract me away from it!

Also I just remembered another problem, I put the ball valve on the wrong side of the tee as you can see in the picture :P
I need to install that new union anyways, and move the plumbing and sump out of the way so I can install my gfi outlet, so I think I may redo the plumbing and take the ball valve out and move it to the appropriate place lol.
With my new plumbing, everything is running very consistanly compared to how it was, however now it seems that I have a whole bunch more head pressure and the water is pushing out of my siphon break, and making a lot of noise, it also seems to be pulling a lot of the flow away from going into my tank. I shut the ball valve off to the refuge, and I have less flow now, but more water/noise coming from my siphon break, so that leads me to believe that there is an issue there. Any ideas on what to do?

Going to check my parameters tonight! Really hoping that my ammonia and nitrite is finally 0!
Have to rinse my sand, and then its going into the refuge! Then I'll need to order some base rock to throw in there and my plants!

Also considering a very shallow sand bed in my DT, i like the bare bottom but it just seems empty without the sand in there!

Next project is my canopy to house my light, going to build it out of 3/4" plywood, going to put plenty of doors in it so I can get in my fish tank without having to take it off, or was even thinking of having a hood build into it that was on hinges and lifted up to expose the whole top of the tank, Input is welcome!
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post #186 of 247
2/9/12 at 3:43pm
Thread Starter 

Came home to my water being slightly murky.....any idea to what may have caused this, its been a few hours and it hasn't cleared up at all. Also checked my ammonia and nitrite level, I still have traces of ammonia and my nitrite is still .10 this is driving me nuts!

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post #187 of 247
2/10/12 at 10:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by xandrew245x View Post

Came home to my water being slightly murky.....any idea to what may have caused this, its been a few hours and it hasn't cleared up at all. Also checked my ammonia and nitrite level, I still have traces of ammonia and my nitrite is still .10 this is driving me nuts!



 Still cycling....just leave it alone. A watched pot never boils....wait a week and THEN retest.

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post #188 of 247
2/10/12 at 2:29pm



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 View Post

Yes. It's best to put your RO unit on a float valve - so that when enough water is produced, it will back the system up and cause it to stop running. If you shut off the water supply every time between making water - you run the risk of drying out your RO Membrane.


 

What if you put a shutoff valve before the RO unit.  Therefore the water is trapped in the unit?
 

 

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post #189 of 247
2/10/12 at 4:27pm
Thread Starter 

I can't help it flower I'm so excited, about a week ago I noticed that my test kit started leaning towards a yellowish green(yellow is 0 and light green is .25) so I have been really excited since that point and been testing it twice a week.

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post #190 of 247
2/10/12 at 5:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by xandrew245x View Post

I can't help it flower I'm so excited, about a week ago I noticed that my test kit started leaning towards a yellowish green(yellow is 0 and light green is .25) so I have been really excited since that point and been testing it twice a week.


If it makes you happy...that's all that matters. However if you feel frustrated, stop testing so often. Look through some books on what fish you might like instead, to get your mind off of it for a bit.
 

 

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post #191 of 247
2/10/12 at 5:51pm


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Wolf View Post



 


 

What if you put a shutoff valve before the RO unit.  Therefore the water is trapped in the unit?
 

 



 

Shutting the water supply off to the RO unit can cause the membrane to dry out. If you put a ball valve after the unit, that could work. 

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post #192 of 247
2/10/12 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 View Post


 



 

Shutting the water supply off to the RO unit can cause the membrane to dry out. If you put a ball valve after the unit, that could work. 



You will still need an auto shut off valve after the RO  and before the ball valve. Otherwise the water will still run through the waste line. Just google "RO auto shut off valve" They cost a few dollars.

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post #193 of 247
2/10/12 at 7:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 View Post


 



 

Shutting the water supply off to the RO unit can cause the membrane to dry out. If you put a ball valve after the unit, that could work. 



Shutting the water supply off will not dry the membrane out.....

 

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post #194 of 247
2/11/12 at 4:05am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 View Post



Shutting the water supply off will not dry the membrane out.....

 


I'm not sure about that either, the ro unit requires pressure to move water through the system, if you shut the water off coming into the system, the water should no longer move and remain in the whole system, correct?

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post #195 of 247
2/11/12 at 4:07am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 View Post



You will still need an auto shut off valve after the RO  and before the ball valve. Otherwise the water will still run through the waste line. Just google "RO auto shut off valve" They cost a few dollars.



Mine came with an automatic shutoff valve before the waste line :)

 

I'm not to worried about it anymore, I have had it hooked up for over a month and only have had one little leak, and that was from the start, and is now fixed. I guess i'm just more concerned if I were to go away for a while, however I would have someone checking on my tank anyways, so they could just take a peak at that too.

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post #196 of 247
2/11/12 at 7:54am
Thread Starter 

Here it is, about a month and a week into my and I had a really bad bacterial bloom the other day. I tested the water when I first noticed it, my ammonia level was still dropping off. I took a sample this morning and my ammonia has jumped up over .50. I'm not to sure what would have causes this, I'm pretty sure I already had my ammonia spike for my cycle.

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post #197 of 247
2/11/12 at 11:39am

what type of lighting are you going to run

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post #198 of 247
2/11/12 at 12:00pm
Thread Starter 

T5s right now, possibly building a led setup.

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post #199 of 247
2/11/12 at 1:24pm

Are you going to add cut outs in the canopy for heat dispersal

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post #200 of 247
2/11/12 at 4:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by xandrew245x View Post


I'm not sure about that either, the ro unit requires pressure to move water through the system, if you shut the water off coming into the system, the water should no longer move and remain in the whole system, correct?



 

There is no difference if your RO/DI unit has an ASOV (auto shut off valve) and the unit stops pumping water....The pressure vessel will still contain water inside on the membrane....I have had my RO/DI unit out of service over a year and I finally went to pull the old membrane out of the housing and to my surprise what did I find......It was full of water......

 

Again it's no different than the guys that hook it up to their faucets, and make water for a day or 2 and then shut it down and put it away and then reconnect come next water change......The membrane will not dry out......

 

PS....On a side note.....I got curious about the old membrane I was going to pull out....I fired up the RO/DI after is sat unused with the old membrane and wanted to see what my TDS was.....Into the unit was 115ppm and coming out of the product line, without any DI resin and a membrane pushing 3 years.....My TDS was 2ppm and that was checked against not 1, but 4 different TDS meters........

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