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Quarantine Tank Size

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 

Still in the build process, but getting closer to bringing my main system online, but wanting to get some good info and ideas on a good size quarantine tank......The DT will be stocked with Tangs being the largest inhabitants, so I'm looking to be able to keep my Tangs in quarantine for extended periods of time....

 

With that said any ideas or suggestion or recommendations.....

post #2 of 26

Would you be QT'ing multiple tangs at one time?

If it was just one tang at a time, even if it were with a few other small fish, you probably could get away with a 55, although I'd be more comfortable with a 75G. Obviously with tangs, the bigger the better, even when in QT.

post #3 of 26

My favorite Qtank is a Roughneck container with a disposable sponge filter.  Easy to clean, no glass to spook a new fish, and it can be easily expanded for multiple fish by just adding another one.  It does take up some serious space though.

post #4 of 26
Thread Starter 

Thanks Bang!!!!!  Some have suggested tying my quarantine and frag tank to the DT, but IMHO that is a very bad idea....I have a 40 gallon breeder set aside for a quarantine tank.

post #5 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 View Post

Thanks Bang!!!!!  Some have suggested tying my quarantine and frag tank to the DT, but IMHO that is a very bad idea....I have a 40 gallon breeder set aside for a quarantine tank.



I have my frag tank hooked into my main system because I dip my corals ahead of time and am a psycho about observing them, but why in the world would anyone want to hook in their QT to their DT, that's insane!!!!

post #6 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef View Post



I have my frag tank hooked into my main system because I dip my corals ahead of time and am a psycho about observing them, but why in the world would anyone want to hook in their QT to their DT, that's insane!!!!



 

I agree with not hooking into the DT, but you have false security as well....just because you dip doesn't guarantee anything.....The corals are suppose to be isolated just as your fish.  Dips aren't totally effective.

post #7 of 26

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 View Post

Thanks Bang!!!!!  Some have suggested tying my quarantine and frag tank to the DT, but IMHO that is a very bad idea....I have a 40 gallon breeder set aside for a quarantine tank.



You're right, hooking up the DT to the QT completely defeats the purpose of a QT.
 

 



 

post #8 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 View Post



 

I agree with not hooking into the DT, but you have false security as well....just because you dip doesn't guarantee anything.....The corals are suppose to be isolated just as your fish.  Dips aren't totally effective.



 

Agree to a point. I had the frag tank separated, and found it wasn't worth it. I also don't buy corals sight unseen, which definitely helps. If I think the coral is questionable, it goes in a 10G QT separated from my main system.

post #9 of 26
Thread Starter 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef View Post



 

Agree to a point. I had the frag tank separated, and found it wasn't worth it. I also don't buy corals sight unseen, which definitely helps. If I think the coral is questionable, it goes in a 10G QT separated from my main system.


Just because you visible see the corals, and you do a dip, again means very little.  There are things dips don't get immediately, and visual inspections are only part of the process.....

 

post #10 of 26

Are you QTing both your fish and your corals in the same tank? I would say to use a 55g aga tank for your tangs as long as you are getting them young and only buying one or two at a time. I also say use that breeder tank to qt your corals. Definitely keep cupramine on hand for your tangs or plan to hypo at a moments notice and also keep an iodine dip available for your coral additions. I would go so far as to use a interceptor treatment on all corals before entering the display tank. Heck, if you are using live rock in your display tank, I would use an interceptor treatment on it after fish and before you add corals. 

 

With such a large system, you definitely have to take every precaution you can for the health of your livestock. 

post #11 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 View Post

Are you QTing both your fish and your corals in the same tank? I would say to use a 55g aga tank for your tangs as long as you are getting them young and only buying one or two at a time. I also say use that breeder tank to qt your corals. Definitely keep cupramine on hand for your tangs or plan to hypo at a moments notice and also keep an iodine dip available for your coral additions. I would go so far as to use a interceptor treatment on all corals before entering the display tank. Heck, if you are using live rock in your display tank, I would use an interceptor treatment on it after fish and before you add corals. 

 

With such a large system, you definitely have to take every precaution you can for the health of your livestock. 



I will be quarantining both fish and coral, but in separate setups.  55g seems like a real waste of space due to size......I understand what your stating about swimming area, but all intended purchases are going to be small, and yes very selective as far as fish, so there will be time gaps between additions, so my thinking is you have a tank taking up valuable space inside the fishroom when it's not really needed.  As far as coral quarantining I am considering a 20L.....The reasoning behind this chose as well isn't really due of space, but more the height issue.  You don't need a super deep tank for coral quarantine, and lighting doesn't have to be super intense as well.  Would love to get my hands on a couple 33L

 

You are correct with a large system quarantine is important, and I'm sure we can think of a couple threads where that was overlooked with the end results not being the greatest.  My issue with treating corals is just as you said....There are to many things that do go overlooked, and when they become evident in the DT, they already taken a foot hold and as you mentioned interceptor.  Again that's not a 1 step cure in the DT, but can be done.  

 

post #12 of 26

On the average QTing for 3-4 weeks.  If you have a 40 already that you want to use, I'd say that is a pretty good choice.  I'd be fine with a 30 as well for the fish QT.

post #13 of 26
Thread Starter 

I guess my big dilemma is quarantining an Achilles for an extended period of time.....These guys definitely need the full treatment......

post #14 of 26

Hmmm... in that case I would say a 40g breeder is fine for the fish, and a 20g long would be perfect for corals. Just depends on how many corals you will purchase and treat at one time.

 

post #15 of 26

I know some really good space saving techniques in tight areas that may interest you... for fish rooms. I know how it can be in small spaces, lol..

post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 View Post

I know some really good space saving techniques in tight areas that may interest you... for fish rooms. I know how it can be in small spaces, lol..


That's what I'm waiting to hear buddy!!!!!!!bigg.gif

 

 

post #17 of 26

Does the QT have to be in the fish room, I know stupid question, get two 40 and stack them up, rack em up.

post #18 of 26

Shawn, there is a place near me that has 33L aquariums. If you want, I can see if they have them and get them for you. I can bring them to TFP on Saturday.

post #19 of 26
Thread Starter 

Sounds cool Gemmy.....Let me know.....I'll shoot you a PM shortly......

post #20 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al&Burke View Post

Does the QT have to be in the fish room, I know stupid question, get two 40 and stack them up, rack em up.



Hey Al.....Yes trying to keep everything contained inside the fish room, so I don't have to hear my wife's mouth!!!!!!!

 

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