New saltwater hobbyist

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

Hey guys i just started a saltwater tank

 

I got a 92 gallon corner tank bow front w/ stand from my uncle. FREE! lol he gave me everything with it! it has a back mounted filter and a siphon on the back for the sump in the bottom. The sump has a 2500 gph pump that feeds the water to the protein skimmer and the water into the bio ball filtration. the front has a 2300 gph pump to feed the water back to the tank. the tank has crushed corals/live sand and maybe 10-15 lbs of base rock/live rock. I have 2 T5 HO lights coming in the mail as we speak and there 160w a piece. I currently have 2 nemo's believe there proper name is percula clownfish and i have a sally lightfoot crab. What do u guys think my next addition should be to my tank? and keep in mind ive only had my tank up and running for 1 week. Any advice would b great and much appreciated

 

Hi, welcome to the site.

First...do you have lab type test kits, not strip? Tell us what those results are, and if you do not have test kits....that is the next purchase to make. I like Seachem multi test kits myself.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

thnx and yes i already have a master test kit(drops not strips) i got a bottle(s) part a and b of calcium booster as well as a bottle of chlorine and amonia remover ive tested everything and its all good everything is correct chemical wise. i think my tank is stable enough to start buyign a few fish and a clean up crew maybe? any suggestions?

I'm wondering about a cycle...1 week if really iffy. That IF is in the event you just moved your uncles tank to your house, then maybe the tank is still somewhat established, but otherwise you need to cycle the tank and you can't assume a week means all is well.

I would like to have the readings on the following:

Ammonia

Nitrite

Nitrate

PH

Alkalinity

Calcium

As for what fish, get this book, and take it to the LFS with you

An example page

Another must have book

And another page

Just buy a master test kit, it comes with ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, and alk, mine was like $20-$30 I can't quite remember. I need to get the test kit you have ;P where did you get it at?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

Nitrate is a 0 ppm

Calcium 500 ppm

Carbonite hardness is at 12 dKH ppm

phosphate is a 2.0 ppm

Salinity 1.023

You see that little nitrate number at 0....if your tank has not cycled and in 1 week it is doubtful. The ammonia spike begins first, changes to nitrite and then goes through another change to become nitrates. No nitrates COULD mean good water...ONLY if the others are at 0 and you don't know.

So before you purchase and add any fish...get the needed test kit.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

I went and baught the other test kit today it has everything except alkalinity Flower. these r the readings:

 

 PH is 8.0

 Ammonia is at 0.25 ppm

 Nitrite is at 0.50 ppm

 Nitrate is again at 0 ppm

 

I'll check for your response later and thnx again for the help flower now time to go unbox my new lights!

Hi...much better...as you can see you are in the middle of your tanks cycle. Now for the bad news...you have to do a soft cycle process to keep your clowns and sally crab alive and not suffering. That means you need to make up lots of saltwater and let it mix (24 hours is ideal) until totally clear and make sure it matches your SG in the main tank.... so get going on that. Do a water change ASAP you already have poison in the water with the ammonia and nitrites

You most likely did not begin your cycle until you added the crab and clowns...so the low 0.25 ammonia is going to climb higher soon. at 1 critters start dying.

Everytime you notice the ammonia creeping back...do another water change. On a 92g tank...do at least 25g to 30g change. 

There you are...... playing with the new lights instead..
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

So flower this may seem like a dumb question but idk the answer. What exactly is cycle? and will my tank still cycle since i already put fish in it or not? ithis all happened bc i didnt know there ws 2 diff test kits haha damn. but i have that now so... ill keep an eye on the results,and again i appreciate all your help!

Hi...Boy am I glad your back...you said you were unpacking the new lights....

Go to the top of the new hobbyist section and then go to the 101 tips, it will explain a cycle in detail for you and how to set up a new tank. Simply put our fish have to eat and swim and poop in the same water...bacteria is what creates a balance so the poop does not kill the fish. Ammonia and nitrites are deadly to fish and other marine critters. You need to do a water change right away.

Nitrates are okay...but the other two must be 0 before the tank can safely handle life. I have to leave...you should have enough to go on for now...otherwise post a new thread "emergency I need help" and someone will look right away at your post and help you. Don't be afraid to ask...we are here for you...there are no dumb questions.

How the nitrogen cycle works:    The nitrification cycle is actually pretty simple. It can seem hard because of a couple terms that are not familiar in our everyday language. But basically this is a simple three-step process.

The best way starting in nitrogen cycle is not to use the fish you can use a non-cooked shrimp or you can ghost feed your tank ghost feeding is putting food in your tank without anything eating it this would start the nitrogen cycle one other thing you mentioned that you have a pump that is 2400 gallons per hour that is way too high for 95 gallon tank should have no more than 1000 gallons per hour pump for pumping water out of your sump. You should have high flow in your tank but not going down to your  sump

1. Step One The first thing that happens when you put fish in the tank is ammonia is produced. This is from the fish waste or excess foods that are decomposing.
2. Step Two As the amount of ammonia starts to increase, a bacteria forms called nitrosomonas. This bacteria begins to convert the ammonia into nitrite. As the ammonia is converted to nitrite, the amount of ammonia will begin to drop and now the nitrites will begin to rise. Soon your ammonia test will show no more ammonia in your tank. This usually happens within the first week and a half of a normal cycle. Nitrite is also very toxic to fish, though not as hazardous as ammonia.
3. Step Three As the nitrite levels increase, another bacteria forms, called nitrobacter. This second bacteria begins to convert the nitrite into nitrate. As it is converted to nitrate, the amount of nitrite will drop and the nitrates will begin to rise. Soon your nitrite test will show no more nitrite in your tank. This happens between three to six weeks in a normal cycle. Nitrate is harmless to fish but is one of the nutrients that plants and algae need and is the final product produced in the nitrification cycle. One of the reasons that water changes are recommended is to keep nitrates at lower levels.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixpc 

How the nitrogen cycle works:    The nitrification cycle is actually pretty simple. It can seem hard because of a couple terms that are not familiar in our everyday language. But basically this is a simple three-step process.

The best way starting in nitrogen cycle is not to use the fish you can use a non-cooked shrimp or you can ghost feed your tank ghost feeding is putting food in your tank without anything eating it this would start the nitrogen cycle one other thing you mentioned that you have a pump that is 2400 gallons per hour that is way too high for 95 gallon tank should have no more than 1000 gallons per hour pump for pumping water out of your sump. You should have high flow in your tank but not going down to your  sump

1. Step One The first thing that happens when you put fish in the tank is ammonia is produced. This is from the fish waste or excess foods that are decomposing.
2. Step Two As the amount of ammonia starts to increase, a bacteria forms called nitrosomonas. This bacteria begins to convert the ammonia into nitrite. As the ammonia is converted to nitrite, the amount of ammonia will begin to drop and now the nitrites will begin to rise. Soon your ammonia test will show no more ammonia in your tank. This usually happens within the first week and a half of a normal cycle. Nitrite is also very toxic to fish, though not as hazardous as ammonia.
3. Step Three As the nitrite levels increase, another bacteria forms, called nitrobacter. This second bacteria begins to convert the nitrite into nitrate. As it is converted to nitrate, the amount of nitrite will drop and the nitrates will begin to rise. Soon your nitrite test will show no more nitrite in your tank. This happens between three to six weeks in a normal cycle. Nitrate is harmless to fish but is one of the nutrients that plants and algae need and is the final product produced in the nitrification cycle. One of the reasons that water changes are recommended is to keep nitrates at lower levels.

 

Hi,

I'm back from the store. How are you doing on getting the water change done?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweezy2011 

Water change is done i have my laptop with me at a friends house currently but I'm letting my tank settle a little before i test it again, thanks again FLOWER! And FIXPC thanks for explaining the cycle i understand now. ammonia is converted into nitrite and eventually into nitrate in lamence terms.And nitrate is the food that corals use correct? i basically thought before cycle is the tank prepping itself, so to say almost self sustaining. "Circle of life" Thank you again guys/gals i appreciate this help but I'm still wondering if having the fish will slow the cycle down....? or will i just have to keep doing water changes for awhile until it cycles completely (may take longer?) or will i have to completely start all over? I'm worried i may have to take the fish back to the LFS and let my tank cycle which i don't want to do help me out here guys lol

Hi,

First nitrates kill coral, not feed them. Nitrates are 80% why we do water changes...to get rid of them. The other 20% is to replenish trace elements that are removed by the corals. Different coral feeds on different things, some get a chunk of shrimp, others pytoplankton and some are just photosynthetic (sunlight)...so before you get a coral you must find out how to care for it, and where in the tank it will live and grow, some like a strong water current, and some like a gentle flow.

Yes it is the cycle of life. And yes it will take longer to cycle with fish in the tank, thats why it's called a soft cycle...you have to keep ammonia and nitrites down while it cycles. Removing the fish will allow for faster cycling...until ammonia and nitrites drop to 0 and stay there...you have to keep up on water changes to keep the fish alive. You do not have to start all over.

I'm really pleased to see you listened and took care of the problem so quickly...good job.  Now keep a close eye on your tank....any cloudiness, fish gasping for air, or hanging out at the top of the tank means the ammonia is high...emergency high. Water changes are needed ASAP before the fish die. Otherwise each morning do your water tests and if you get a reading on ammonia or nitrites...do another water change. keep that up until you get the magic 0 readings...or take the fish back to the store, and let the ammonia and nitrites do their thing until the cycle is complete. No fish in the tank means a quicker and easier cycle, since no water changes are needed.