DYI Denitrator

[zman1]

I just put together a kind of cross DYI Denitrator. I am still waiting for a new pump to arrive.

As it stands right now, I have been having some NO3 issues.

History
I removed two 32 gallon trash cans and a 50 gallon AG tank that I had macro algae in. The removal was due to relative humidity comfort issues. This was helping cover up my feeding habits. Since then, I added one of the 32 gallon trash cans back. Water changes haven't been able to keep up with it. So I thought I would try a Denitrator. It's going to take a while to see if it has any value.

Parts list, rounded up
3"x4" Toilet flange with knockout - $6
28" of 3" PVC -$? left over from other project $2
PVC drain grate - Trimmed to go on the inside bottom. -$4
3" Nylon screen for top of grate - $1 a Left over again
Coupler 3" - $2
3" cleanout with plug - $5
2 John Guest SpeedFit 1/4 in and 3/8 -24 $5
1 - 3/8 -24 Tap = $3
Teflon tape - left over - 50 cents
100' Airline tubing $15
Pump depending on what I end up using - $26 (2 Aqua lifts) or $95 (Dosing pump)
1 gal CaribSea No-NO3 media - $20

Minimum $90

I left the top accessible in case I have to remove the media. In the pictures right now, the water is first pumped through the airline, starting at the top side of the pipe (this is were the airline starts ). It then travels down the 100' of tubing and enters the bottom of the chamber through the JG fitting. Then up through the grate, screen, and media. The water exits at the top though a JG fitting and airline to the tank. I have a pinch valve I can use to slow the flow down if needed (not pictured). Right now, I have an old aqualifter on cycling a 5 gal bucket of tank water. I am going to wait and evaluate this water, once a see some positive results, I will put it in the system. I thought about keeping the airline on the inside of the pipe so it wasn't exposed to light, but decided not to. If algae starts to grow, I cover it with something, 100 MPH tape as a last resort.

I am hoping for good results!

[ReefForBrains]

why the 100" running around the outside?

[zman1]

The 100' - To give aerobic bacteria a chance to take up any O2 during the trip down. Hopefully, then it would be prime for anaerobic bacteria.

[acrylic51]

Keep us updated.......

[CGRANT]

Originally Posted by acrylic51

Keep us updated.......

Yes...Please do!
If this works well i'm building one!

[acrylic51]

Originally Posted by CGRANT

Yes...Please do!
If this works well i'm building one!

[zman1]

Will do - worse case, I will use the hardware as a second media chamber for the CA reactor with a few changes.

[zman1]

The new pumps are due today. However, I have been running it with the old Aqualifter and have seen two issues:

1. I was still seeing air gaps in the exit line. I wasn't for sure if it was some type of gas exchange byproduct of the sulfur, it wasn't. I put a pinch clamp on the exit line and found the leak that was drawing air (now leaking water). The top plug (not JQ) was the cause, I only used two wraps of Teflon tape, pulled and wrapped it three times, it's now fixed.

2. The most important issue, it appears to me, that water is fouled from the sulfur. Not sure, if it's the concentration in only 5 gal bucket of tank water with regards to the amount of media used. I will swap it out again during the system water change. I may use one of the old trash cans I took out and fill it with the 30 gal of tank water for the setup. My system still has about 200 gallons counting for LR/LS displacement. So the thirty gallons may have a different result, I hope...

[zman1]

Did the water change and put the dosing pump on. The pinch clamp is wide open as the pump instructions indicate you can't restrict flow. To control flow you have to run on a start/stop timer. I also, have the two new aqualifts, we will see. Either way I can use them.

[wattsupdoc]

Zman, Great project! I have asked on here before about these and gotten no real response, but asnwers mostly like "a better way would be to" . Anyways i'm sure they work, I've read several things on them, but it's been a while. I think the main consern about them is the production of sulfur, injectig the product water into a highly oxegenated flow area relieves this. Like you'r skimmers intake, or even the output I believe. But I wonder how you will know if it's removing nitrates from the system on a newly cycling system? It will take several weeks for the anearobic bacteria to cycle. Once it sees nitrates. Of course the nitrate removal product will remove the trates but I think you could have used anything used for bacteria, LR rubble bioballs those small biofilter type products. Does the trate removal product you used use an absorption type process to remove the trates? Just wondering about leaching them back? :thinking: I suppose it really cant though if the anearobic bacteria is consuming the trates as it goes. Not trying to criticise here or anything, quite the contrary, i wanna do one of these on my 125 FOWLR at some point and wanna see some experiences with it. Also couldnt you just use the syphon method and let it drip out into a sump, fuge, or wetdy type setup? No pump needed then.

[zman1]

I think it will take a long time for it to set up anaerobic bacteria. I was going to originally use old rinsed CA reactor media for the chamber. I am hoping once it sets up, I will read a detectable difference when testing water. I dislike tests that are shade compares. For this setup, I need a pump, I don't believe siphon would work with all the line resistance. I am no where close to call it a success or failure at this point... Nor am I ready to try it just yet on my system.

[zman1]

Update

I mounted the dosing pump and added a timer. I wired the timer for two different outlets. The outlet on the left is for the normally closed contact and the outlet on the right, normally open. I set the timer to pulse duration of 59 seconds (max) every 5 minutes. The result is that the pump plugged into the N.O. contacts comes on for a minute and off for four minutes. If that turns out not to be long enough, I will just plug it in the N.C. and run it four minutes on and 1 minute off. This was the easiest way to program it., Otherwise, If I wanted a 50-50, I would have had program events with on and off in five minutes intervals.

Surprisingly, I have noticed a difference already with the water in the trashcan. I did add a Mag 9.5 to it, small piece of LR and food earlier in the week. Also, the pump helps keep the water temp up. I just checked the trashcan NO3 level and the output directly from the hose. I am using the Salifert test kit. When looking down from the top it is a 1:1 ratio, looking front on, it's a 10:1 ratio (divide number by 10) The sample on the left came from the output hose of the Denitrator and the one on the right directly from the trashcan water. Earlier the trashcan was reading at least 25 PPM. I would guess it is now a litte above 12 and the Denitrator is 2.5. The two test vials are both from NO3 kits. The pH is 7.9 right now. So far, it is looking a little more positive! I may put it in the production system next week, if it continues to improve.

Side note: I noticed, I have DYI instead of DIY in the first post and title. I do that all the time, must be old habit of the common FYI

[zman1]

This was my inspiration - the first two links in the post..
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...86&postcount=9

I just checked the pH of the output by letting it fill a glass - It was 7.1. I am going to build a second chamber and use straight Ca media to feed the output of the Denitrator into, then back into the tank. Or I will feed the Denitrator into my current Ca reactor and put the second chamber on the Ca reactors output.


Another issue I ran across in using a straight JQ fitting on the top. While moving the hose around I was able to get it to come loose. I will switch this out for a 90 degree JQ and use RO 1/4" tubing on the output.

[StimpsonJCat]

I'm actually in the process of building one of these too--although with a slightly different design. There's no reason why a siphon wouldn't work. The siphon's flow rate will be limited by the difference in height between the starting and ending points, as well as the tube's inner diameter. However, since you only want a flow rate of about 4 GPH, it should be fine.

I am going to be putting a 1/4" JG bulkhead into my overflow box, then connecting 100' of black polyurethane tubing. I then have a 2 gallon plastic jug from Wal-Mart, filled with bio-bale and sealed up air-tight with two more JG bulkheads in the lid. One of those bulkheads will be connected to the tube coming from the overflow, and have another tube on the inside going to the bottom of the container. The other bulkhead drains the water into some activated carbon to remove any H2S, and has a valve to control flow rate. I'm just waiting for the bulkheads to arrive in the mail, then I'll be building it (hopefully this weekend). I can post pictures and results here when it's complete, if anybody is interested.

[zman1]

For sure post pictures. I agree siphon "should" work, my Ca reactor was supposed to work on siphon, but I found it worked better with a Aqualifter (when I was drawing water from a higher level). It is a little different , since the CO2 tank can actually charge the chamber some if it's not adjusted. In my case, I am not pulling water from the top of the tank but rather the sump and the chamber is taller. Let us know if your pumpless version performs to your expections on flow. I was also thinking of carbon or putting the output hose next to my skimmer water intake, but I think that may help build up calcium on the impeller and inner-housing faster. Also thought of getting a cheap air pump and stone to aerate the water in a small section of pipe before it overflows back into the sump.

[zman1]

StimpsonJCat - I added a activated carbon tube and airstones. I just used some leftover plumbing parts. The pipe is 2" and has a coupler about 6" from the bottom, standard cap on bottom and the Wye drain that you can see. The Tee and horizontal pipe are there just to rest it against the side of the trash can. I put a JQ fitting on the bottom and the DeNO3 feeds it. I did add an aqualift to assist the dosing pump since this add was causing flow issues. When I finally put the DeNO3 in the Production System, I will lower the dosing pump mounting and shorten all hose feeds. None of the fittings or pipe are glued except the bottom cap. This way I can pull the chamber apart to change the carbon and floss. I used just filter floss on the bottom and on the top of the carbon. I may make something more permanent or I may not and just use it.

The NO3 levels are now 2.5 ppm in the trashcan and output of the DeNO3. I was hoping for Zero, but that is acceptable. The Trashcan pH is 7.77 and since I added the carbon and airstone the output of this chamber is now 8.12. I am on the way to Lowes to get the 90 JQ and parts for the second chamber.

[just fishings]

I love DIY projects; I have biult everything for my system on a 75gal. I do not have a large problem with nitrates now but in my new house I am working on a whole wall display....about 1,125 gals.!!! I want it ALL for that system. I have been doing salt for about 3 years but have never heard of a nitrate reducer....sounds great. I have seen in the stores the media you pictured. I wish to biuld one; BUT I do not have an understanding of what it is doing at this point. Flatter me with your knowledge by explaining where you would be taking the water out of your main tank-through the system (with an explanation of the chemical process)-back to your tank!!PLEASE.

[zman1]

The water right now is confined to the trashcan. When I put it in the system, the water will draw from the sump and return to the sump. See post 13 of this thread.... Also, look at links 3 and 4.

Originally Posted by zman1

This was my inspiration - the first two links in the post..
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...86&postcount=9

Also, look at links 3 and 4.


Google"Korallin BioDenitrator S-1502, S-3002 & S-4002 " first link to see a retail version for $350 -$700.

[just fishings]

Great links to help me understand!! The one thing I don't know by reading is when it all goes through the system does it not take out some of the minerials and salt? This (in a way) is like the leaching of the water through the earth; correct? :notsure:

[wattsupdoc]

Zman,
I'm wondering why you chose to use a DeNO3 material in an anearobic environment. Maybe I dont understand the use of that product. :notsure: Is it made to be used in a DeNO3? Or is that something that works on absorption type principal? :notsure: Where any flow through it would DeNO3? Will it as most mechanical/chemical filtrations eventually "fill up". Most of the DeNO3's I've read about just use any type of surface area to sustain the anearobic bacteria, but I do understand that there are some that work a little differently. Some even being "fed".

I can see where this media may be beneficial to the DeNO3, it would quickly begin removing trates, then would possibly have a higher DeNO3 capacity as it would be removing them both biologically and mechanically. If the anearobic bacteria can find enough NO3 to thrive. But, if the product should begin to leach the NO3 back into the water will the bacteria be able to compensate? Of course, you could remove the media if needed to, but then you would loose you're anearobic bacteria. :notsure:

Not trying to point out any negatives, in fact I believe you'll have a good working DeNO3. I just am curious as to the science behing you'rs!

OoopsI guess I shoulda read the posts! I see now it's sulfer.

[zman1]

I am not a Chemist and to paraphrase articles (in the links) that some do a good job in layman's terms and others that have a higher understanding of Chemistry - ie CEs. Just the fact I am using carbon, I think it is a standard understanding, it can pull trace elements out. I am doing water changes weekly and can't keep NO3 down where I want it. Some can keep a level of 0 for NO3, I have never been able. I have gotten close before, but never zero. It is also my understanding that NO2 is removed before it can change to NO3 as well. Only time will tell if this is a success or failure.

I am willing to take advice from a Chemist or a hobbyist with experience as to success or more importantly failure of this approach - If you know what I mean... The last time Sarwiz100 shows being on the board was on 1-31-07, I would love to hear what he has seen thus far.


Here is information copied directly from one of the links. by J. Charles Delbeek, M.Sc.


The system uses small beads of elemental sulfur placed in a contact chamber. Tank water is introduced at the bottom of the chamber at a very slow rate and exits out the top. As the water moves slowly upward, oxygen is removed by bacteria, making the chamber more anaerobic the further up the water rises. At this point, the bacteria will use nitrate in the absence of oxygen so that by the time the water exits from the top of the chamber, most of the nitrate has been removed. The chemical reaction that takes place releases excess hydrogen ions, which makes the water acidic.

Nitrogen gas is also produced, and this leaves the water at the top of the chamber (one reason why a reverse-flow design is favored). It is believed that carbon dioxide is also produced in this process, further acidifying the water. To counter the acidity, the effluent from the reactor should pass through another column of crushed coral in which the acidic water will dissolve the coral gravel, raising the pH and generating calcium ions.

Another by-product of sulfur-based denitrification is sulfate. Passing the water through calcareous gravel precipitates this sulfate and prevents it from entering the aquarium. The sulfur beads can last a very long time, but the chamber of coral gravel will quickly turn to sediment and should be replenished on a regular basis. The use of a fluidized bed design for both the sulfur and the coral gravel reactors should help to reduce the build-up of sediments.

This depends on how low such filters can bring the nitrate. Most reef aquariums still have nitrate levels that are a magnitude greater than those found in nature. If these filters can bring down aquarium levels to natural reef levels, they may well be worth the effort to use. On fish-only systems, these filters can easily help bring down nitrates to much lower levels. In addition, with the increase in the numbers of fish and the amount of food being added to reef tanks, a sulfur denitrator may be a necessary tool to remove excess nitrate. Finally, if aquarists want to keep many of the more delicate nonphotosynthetic corals, such as Dendronephthya, which require frequent feedings, these filters would again help keep nitrates under control.

Some of you may be wondering what all the fuss is about, since denitrification filters have been around for over 10 years. The difference is that those filters rely on heterotrophic bacteria to reduce nitrate to nitrogen gas. This means that you need to feed the bacteria a carbon source, usually methanol or ethanol, in a controlled manner, and adjust the amount in response to changes in nitrate levels. Too much alcohol, and you get hydrogen sulfide production. Too little, and you have nitrite and nitrate released back to the aquarium. These filters also produce a large amount of bacterial slime that needs to be removed on a regular basis.

The genius of the sulfur-based denitrators is that they do not need to be constantly adjusted, you don't need to feed them (other than to add some new sulfur maybe once a year or less), and they can also be used in conjunction with a calcium reactor to add calcium and alkalinity to the aquarium. Put simply, they are much easier to use with much less risk than alcohol-based reactors.

[zman1]

It is also possible to use this method in conjunction with a Jaubert plenum system, and most likely, with a deep sand bed system. By adding a thin layer of sulfur beads just above the plenum, or bare bottom of the tank in a deep sand bed, you can use the anaerobic environment there to allow sulfur-based denitrification to occur. This might allow Jaubert or deep sand bed systems to carry a heavier bioload by increasing their denitrifying capacity. You could also set up a system in a refugium or adjacent sump to allow you to add such a system to an existing tank without having to tear it down first.

The advantage of this system is that you don't need to add another piece of equipment, but I prefer the convenience of having a separate device I can remove without having to disrupt my tank. Several manufacturers are offering these systems in Europe, and some are now being imported to the United States (e.g., Knop, AquaMedic and Deltec).

[Phixer]

Nice project Zman. Id like to try a sulfur denitrator project in the future, might have to duplicate yours.

[zman1]

Phixer - thanks, but I would wait... Let me make all the mistakes first-LOL

I have made anumber of them already.

[reefkprZ]

I love the Idea of using the sulfur to boost the capacity of DSB and plenum systems. that article is frikken awesome. I'm going to have to research into that a bit more, it sounds like a great way to improve a tanks bio-capacity. hmmmm. :thinking:


great project, hope you get it right in one shot with no big ooopsies.

[zman1]

I did place it into my production system. I did stop using the Dosing pump and used the two new aqualifters. This was after I added the straight Ca reactor media chamber. I also took the opportunity to relocate my Ca reactor and CO2 tank since I changed it's media and had to charge the tank this weekend. (the check valve had let a few drops of water pass, so I raised the CO2 tank height).

I took some pictures of the components for the media chamber. These were the same parts used on the De-NO3, but in 4". The prices are from Lowes



This is the toilet flange with knockout. This will accommodate either 3" or 4" pipe. Inside 3" and outside 4" price $3.27


Shows the Coupler left and Cleanout w/plug right.
The cleanout connects to the coupler and the other end of the coupler goes on the 4" pipe. Not pictured is the 4" pipe. I got the pipe on a different trip, the pipe comes in two lengths 5' and 8'or10'. I bought the short length for $7.xx
Coupler $1.93
Cleanout w/plug $5.76


Picture of the snap-in drain. $2.98


I cut the flange off the drain so it will drop thought the pipe and then used a dremel to smooth it.


Picture of the drain and vinyl screen used. I used two layers of the screen.


shows the drain and screen installed .


Shows the two chambers on the right side. The 3" (tall one) is the De-NO3 and the 4" (short one) is the Ca reactor media. Volume in 4" is about a gallon of media and the volume in the 3" is about 3/4 a gallon of the No-NO3 media. To the left of the Ca reactor are 4 aqualifts. Two are for this system and the other two are for the Ca reactor and a carbon chamber (listed earlier in the thread).

Of the two used for the De-NO3 project. The first feeds the De-NO3 chamber through the 100' of hose wrapped around it. Water is drawn out of the sump through the lifter then I have a pinch clamp to control the flow on the output before the 100' hose. The water leaves the top of the De-NO3 and enters the bottom of the Aragonite chamber and out the top. From the top of the argonite chamber I added the second lifter. The first one wasn't enough to run water through the two chambers. I tried to put it between the two chambers and was able to get the top plug to start a small leak, even after I wrapped and rewrapped the plug with Teflon tape. Part of this problem is, I don't have a pipe wrench big enough to hold it still while tightening the plug. I had my 19 yr old son hold it for me -LOL It was on it's last thread of the adjuster when I was trying to tighten the 3" cap. By putting on the output side it pulls water out rather than pushing. If I get a larger pipe wrench (belt version), I may switch it back between the chambers. I didn't end up using the carbon chamber connected to this system, but instead just drip it on a carbon in the white trashcan in the sump.




I kept the carbon chamber and used it as a standalone. It is driven by one of the old aqualifters.

[zman1]

I made a few changes, again. I had a leak in with the aragonite media chamber for the DeNO3 and use a smaller one I built for the CA reactor. I also swapped out the mixed sulfur media for straight sulfur. I did rearrange the aqualifters so that one feeds the 3" Sulfur chamber from the sump and the second is between the Sulfur chamber and the Aragonite chamber, then pinch clamped on the output of the aragonite chamber. I have the output dripping into the top of the carbon chamber, were I added the new wooden air diffusers. I believe this is the way I am going to leave it for now, the only change might be to move the output from the top of carbon chamber to the white trashcan. I have added a few picture to show this...

The other shorter chamber


The setup


The sulfur product


The current output of the Aragonite chamber


Close up

[zman1]

I just got a new NO3 kit. I thought I'd try the Lamotte this time. The current system water NO3-N reading is .75ppm, but converted to NO3 (NO3-N X 4.4) is 3.3 ppm. I will post test results again next week. I have continued doing my weekly water changes of 30 gallons as usual and haven't changed feeding habits.

This past weekend, I tested the DeNO3 output with Salifert and it was zero. I haven't tested it yet with the Lamotte kit. The flow rate is about 2 gallons per hour and I am running it unrestricted (no pinch clamp). It takes roughly 4 days to do 1X of system water turnover.

I did move the output to the White trashcan in the sump last week.

[zman1]

I didn't do a water change this weekend. Forgot, was doing yard work...

The current system water NO3-N reading is .5ppm, converted to NO3 (NO3-N X 4.4) is 2.2 ppm. I did test the De-NO3 output water with the Lamotte, it was zero.

[baloo6969]

[IMG]theReac.JPG[/IMG]

is this the basic idea? I'm sorry I’m not very autistic.
I don’t understand where the tube with the foam is coming from. Is that the Carbon and Calcium tube?

should it look like this?



[IMG]theReac2.JPG[/IMG]

[baloo6969]

i mean artistic

[zman1]

The tube with the foam is a carbon only tube, and I am not using it for the De-NO3 anymore. It is running standalone now..

The setup as it is today.


A aqualifter lifts water out of the sump then down the coiled airline hose to the bottom of the 3" sulfur chamber. The chamber is full to about 3"or 4" from the top plug with sulfur media. The water leaves the top and goes to another aqualifter then to the bottom of the other 4" chamber which is full of CA reactor media and then leaves the top. I drip this back into my sump now, the white trachcan part in the pictures.

Both chambers are built the same except one is with 3" PVC and the other is 4" pvc.


You could do it with one chamber like the retail versions, put another drain and screen between the sulfur and aragonite. This would help if you swap the aragonite media and mitigate dumping/mixing the sulfur. If you want to keep them separate. I had the mixed media at first and went to the separate media.

Here is a stick person quality drawing of it -LOL

[baloo6969]

i have a 55g, and i've been thinking of doing this for awhile...but i think i could get away with a smaller version...maybe 2and3 inch tubes, only 2/3s of the height you've made...what do you think?

[zman1]

Sure and if you do one split chamber or mixed media you could also get away with one $14 aqualifter.


It looks like it's working pretty well so far. I have no idea long term in months or years, what ill effect it will have, if any. Time will tell....

[baloo6969]

this is a great idea. How long will it take for the NO3 to start actually going down? Will a single 3 inch tube with Sulfer and CA about 15~18 inchs high be suficient in lowering the NO3? would it affect my PH/ALK?

[zman1]

The first day it appeared to do the opposite on NO3 and that was with mixed and separated media. I would have to go back through the thread but in a week or two you should see the output become 0. I have ran it a week on the last test and it reduced 3.3 to 2.2 in a week. It is hard to put an exact numbers since I was doing weekly water changes as well. I forgot this weekend and just added salt to my mixing tank today and will do the water change tomorrow morning. I couldn't tell you how long it would take you to see a level change on your system water...

Actually the Alk has been a little better and pH a little higher than typical. I run 8.0 normally and now it's 8.1 and Alk seems to be a little more stable around 162 ppm. I think this is the result of the big CA media chamber and the lower pH from the sulfur chamber. I do run a CA reactor and my pH is always on the low end and fight Alk. I may drip a little washing soda with the dosing pump to bring alk up a little higher. Plan for this is 2 tablespoons per RO water gallon and drip the gallon over 6-7 days.

[baloo6969]

"I may drip a little washing soda with the dosing pump to bring alk up a little higher. Plan for this is 2 tablespoons per RO water gallon and drip the gallon over 6-7 days."---HUH? I'm a bit confussed. What is washing soda? is it buffer?

[zman1]

Originally Posted by baloo6969

"HUH? I'm a bit confussed. What is washing soda? is it buffer?

Baked baking soda

[zman1]

Updated test

The current system water NO3-N reading is .25ppm, converted to NO3 (NO3-N X 4.4) is 1.1 ppm. Actually it's less than that (lowest scale is .25) but not willing to call it zero yet.

Added a picture (green is the system water tested).

[baloo6969]

this is exciting, ive got all the parts to do it tonight...just have to find the sulfer...i'm going with a 1/2 sulfer 1/2 calcium chamber. and i'm going to use
1/4' RO filter tubing...can i cycle this chamber on "old" water, or should i use it on my DT?

[zman1]

There is an on-line store out of Indianapolis that has what you are looking for. This is where I got mine. Your call on if you want to add the ssystem directly to your DT or first cycle it with old tank water. I did it with old tank water because I was unsure of it. I may in a few weeks shut it down and see if I can keep near zero NO3 for how long. If not, I will restart it. I would like to start water changes every two weeks instead of weekly or maybe every ten days. Good luck!

[baloo6969]

what's your email?

[zman1]

Yellowbook the area you will find them.

[zman1]

I removed about 75% of the sulfur. I will see how this works...

[gmax111]

Updates please!!!!

[zman1]

Even with 75% of the sulfur removed the current system water NO3-N reading is .0 ppm, converted to NO3 (NO3-N X 4.4) is 0 ppm. CA is 400 and Alk is 116ppm very low. I haven't done a water change for two weeks now. I just started to drip washing soda again. I will have to watch it as my pH has actually been 8.2 - 8.3 at the end of the photo period while I stopped dripping a few weeks back.

[zman1]

Update -

Since the last update - I have done only two 32 gal water changes in the last two months and to my amasement, I am still running 0 NO3 with the Lamotte test kit. I know my pH level has been a little lower.

[zman1]

Update -

I removed the 100' of airline tubing wrapped around the chamber as this started restricting the flow way too much. Now I need to slow it with a pinch clamp - Vast improvement.

[mmm33732]

bringing this guy back from the dead...

did you find a way to stabilize your ph? i've been running a diy coil reactor into a diy sulfur reactor for a few months now. dropped my nitrates from 60-100 to 5-10 area since adding the sulfur reactor. ph also dropped from 8.3 to 7.8. i started dripping kalk to help bring it up and that has brought it up to about 7.95. i then turned the denitrators off for a few days and ph went up to 8.1. i'll be turning them back on soon, but wondering if you found a way to keep the ph up? there is crushed coral in the denitrator, but i'm not too sure how much that helps with the ph as it still drips a low value.

[zman1]

pH has always been low for me since I added a CA reactor. I vent my Air Hose on the skimmer, helps a little. I do drip Baked Baking Soda to help my Alk level and that results in the 7.9 to 8.0 pH range. Anytime my pH monitor shows a very low level it's always been the result of a very low ALk level for me. Can't say for sure if the De-NO3 has a significant effect on pH in my tank but it does keep NO3 at zero....