New 75g Reef Tank

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member


Da, da da!!

A day and a half to go!

I gotta figure out which sensors go to which tanks on my ATO.

It's starting to come together.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
So far zero TDS coming out of the RO unit. After all the filtration I put it through, it better well stay there for the next three months.

 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I have got to do some cleaning up tonight and tomorrow. Can't wait to start mixing salt. That probably won't be until Monday though.

I'm shopping for a space saver protein skimmer right now. Thinking about a reef octopus but I'm leaving my options open.

Someone on another forum recommended a RLSS 6-I. Never heard of that brand, but they said Tony Vargas uses them. *shrug*
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
I have got to do some cleaning up tonight and tomorrow. Can't wait to start mixing salt. That probably won't be until Monday though.

I'm shopping for a space saver protein skimmer right now. Thinking about a reef octopus but I'm leaving my options open.

Someone on another forum recommended a RLSS 6-I. Never heard of that brand, but they said Tony Vargas uses them. *shrug*
If you want a tiny footprint, Skimz SN123 Monzter Mini Protein Skimmer. Small, but rated up to 132 gallons for around $150.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I've been researching the Skimz monzter mini 123 this morning and it looks like a pretty solid protein skimmer. I think I'll give it a shot. The price tag is pretty good too.

The 123 is up to a 135g tank lightly stocked. The 143 is up to a 235g tank lightly stocked. I might go up to the 143 and use one of the low settings on the DC pump- and if I need the extr skimming power, I can always ramp it up a little more.

I research quite a bit on SPS corals, and one constant thing that comes up is that SPS like a lot of fish waste but not to the point that it's toxic. I've heard of people running their nitrates at 10-50ppm to get their SPS to color up really good. I think it's kinda playing a dangerous game of cat and mouse with the system- running nitrate that high.

Aside from the little stuff I need like the kalk stirrer and some plumbing for it and the phosphate reactor, I am looking into lighting systems again as well. I already have a two bulb T5 unit that came with the used tank and no telling how old the bulbs are. I'm sure I could keep some polyps or mushrooms alive with it but I am eventually going to have to replace it with something.

The cheap chinese full spectrum LEDs that I see are just a box and don't come with mounting brackets or hang on tank mounting systems, which is kinda disappointing. If I go this route, I'll have to build a canopy, which wouldnt be bad. At least the fish couldn't jump out so easily.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
The 143 might be a little overkill, but it's better to have too much than not enough. I think I've said that before... lol! I just installed a BRS Dual GFO reactor with a Mag-Drive 3 pump. It took about 30 minutes to assemble, fill, mount it, flush it, and have it running in the fuge. I really like it.

I haven't had much luck with LED, so I went with T5 HO with timers on both tanks. I have a 48" fixture on my 125 (6' tank), and it does a great job. I have a 36" on my 40B (3' tank) and it's a little overkill, so I only run half the lights for the time being. I eventually want to put SPS in the small tank, so I know it'll have sufficient lighting. I gave $150 for the 48", and $125 for the 36". I spent nearly as much again upgrading all the cheap bulbs that came with the lamps with ATI bulbs. I have a few LPS and a couple of SPS in the big tank, and they are doing great. I mounted both lamps inside canopies, and there's no heat issue. Tanks run the same temp day and night. The back of the canopies are open, so the heat from the lamps creates air flow. Hot air rises and exits the canopy at the top, which creates lower air pressure underneath. Cool air is drawn in over the water and under the lamps by this low pressure. A fanless flow is created by simple convection. I had originally intended to install cabinet fans to remove heat, until I realized I didn't need to since it wasn't an enclosed compartment. Pretty cool, huh? LOL!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Thanks Pegasus,

I've been reefing for a long time. I've had florescents, compact florescents, T5,T5 HO, HQI metal halides, mogul base metal halides, LEDs and a combination of some of the aforementioned. The last fixture I had was a photon 48 from Reefbreeders and I really liked that light.

I'm just trying to stay current with the methods and give LEDs a real try.

The tank looks about halfway full by now. I got to figure out how the ATO is set up soon so I can get the sump filled up safely. I bought silicone airline tubing to do it with and I also was able to drill a hole in the side of the stand to run it through.

Yep, it's well on its way. I'm excited.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
So my RO DI unit is still putting out zero TDS water. That's the good news. The bad news is that it has been 24 hours and my 75gpd membrane has produced around 55g of water in 24hours. Slllllllooooooooooooooooooowwwww.

It will be ok though, I'll let it run tonight all night and I'll cut it off in the morning and cut it back on tomorrow night. I just need the display filled up and then I'll set the ATO to do the sump safely.



Instead of using a plastic tote for the water change tank, I forgot that I bought a 20g long tank that I can use for water changes. It's the perfect size for a once a month water change.

Even though the system hasn't been filled with enough water yet, I want to go ahead and mix in some of the salt and get it stirring. That way it won't take long to mix the rest and add sand.

Since my live fish store is having a sale on live rock for $2.99/lb I'm buying live rock and shaping it. Masonry bits and chisels here I come,...
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I got the ATO working properly this morning. I went ahead and adjusted everything so that the ATO will finish topping off the tank, so I don't have to worry about leaving the RO unit running today.

Today is the day that I get the tank started. I'll be turning on the return pump tonight hopefully. I'll also be adding additional salt and be making adjustments to it to keep the salinity at about 1.026 since I have a decent ATO working now, I won't have to really worry with salinity fluctuations.

Now to take care of temp fluctuations next,..

I'll be ordering 30lbs base rock from reef rocks and adding an additional 25-30 pounds of live rock from the fish store. Probably by this next weekend. Hopefully I'll have the tank cycling soon.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Lol. Yeah, there is s lot involved. Many people don't realize the amount of time and effort it takes to have a thriving reef tank. I have probably made the tank way more complex than it needs to be but I want to do it all right this time and use the right tools and not really cut corners too much.

The tank and everything is actually coming along pretty good so far. I have to order a locline or go by my LFS and see if they have a 1" one. My return line hole is drilled a little too far down and I'm afraid the extra water it drains will overflow the sump. I'm going to do a test run tonight to see if it will work without it though.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I have used a bunch of equipment on this tank that I have collected over the years. Not all of it is brand new.

I bought the tank used for $380 which included equipment that I sold off for $150. So I was into it by $230 getting started. Then I spent about $100 at glass holes for bulkheads, hits, spinner and filters (free shipping on orders over $100). I bought $200 of RO equipment and had a bunch leftover and given to me. Some stuff I have yet to set up still. I purchased those ten gallon tanks for $10 each and I'm not going to use two of them. I purchased a $12 power strip and $4 of shims. So I'm in it at about $600 so far.

I want a decent skimmer and I'm looking at the skimz monzter 143 right now. That's about $165. And need to buy a few specialty plumbing stuff to get the phosphate reactor online. I need dry and live rock, which I estimate will be another 200 and I need a canopy with two cheap Chinese LED units which is going to cost about $250.

So without fish and corals, I'm in it about $1500.

But if you add up the cost of the reactor, the apex jr. And pumps and stuff that I have kept over the years, your looking at closer to $2100-2300.

Lol. This hobby is cheap compared to race cars, motor cycles, and large scale home gardening.
 

aduvall

Member
Wow! Yes.. but much more expensive than say... reading! LOL, I guess thankfully most of it is upfront cost.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
So I got home and the suction cup that was holding the airline tube Down in the ATO reservoir let the airline tubing go and the pump pushed air some today. So it will probably be tomorrow before I get to turn on the return pump. I'll have it fill up overnight.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I am very disappointed with how loud the lifeguard aquatics quiet one pump is. I was so used to how loud the mag drives are that I thought the quiet one was a quiet pump. Heh.

The bean animal overflow is louder than I expected. I thought that it would be as easy as dialing in a siphon and it would be quiet as all get out. But it's not. I have to figure out how to blow the bubble out of the siphon line so that it can quiet down some. I guess I'll have to keep tweaking it and reading and asking questions.

The good news is that the drain box doesn't leak!!

There is something that I can't figure out though- I mixed saltwater and the tank was sitting at 66 degrees when I mixed it. It's cloudy. A definite haze, even after a good 24 hours. I'll check the salinity when I get home. The salt looks like it is completely dissolved. There is none resting on the bottom glass. Ideas?
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
Just tossing this out there but maybe the water is too cold to mix in 24? Maybe it needs longer?

Just a thought.
 
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