swdummie
- Thread starter swdummie
- Start date
flower
Well-Known Member
flower
Well-Known Member
Hi,
What do you mean let it cycle for 2 weeks? Do you know what a cycle is? First you introduce ammonia, good bacteria develops and feeds on the ammonia, and makes nitrites...then another type of good bacteria develops and makes the nitrites into nitrates, which we remove by water changes since the time it takes for nitrates to become a harmless gas takes too long for our fish tanks to remain healthy. Fish live, sleep, eat and poop in the tank water...the good bacteria is needed to clean it up and make it livable for the fish. If you didn't allow the 1st cycle to complete, then the there is not enough good bacteria to keep the water healthy for the fish to live in it.
The first cycle alone takes about 8 weeks to build a good bacteria colony...your fish are dying because you didn't have the tank cycled, your tests won't show anything until the ammonia spikes, and then goes back to 0...then nitrites spike and go back to 0...THEN you will see nitrates. Even then...there is only enough good bacteria for ONE fish at a time, then the whole system has to adjust to that one fish, you wait a few weeks and add another fish. A quarantine is also a real good idea, it not only will prevent disease, but will help you pace how quickly you add new fish. Too much too soon is the #1 reason folks run into trouble and crash their tanks.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I'm in agreement with Flower on this one..
Welcome to the forum! I hope you enjoy your stay!
Welcome to the forum! I hope you enjoy your stay!
swdummie
Member
flower
Well-Known Member
Hi,
Algae booster? Just a little info for you: Macroalgae is a marine plant, it feeds on ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, nitrites and anything else nasty in the water. It uses it to grow, and when you remove the growth...called harvesting, you are removing those unwanted things from your water system. It isn't instant either...you still need to cycle the tank before you add any fish, macros you can add right away, just like your sand and live rock....
You must also cycle a quarantine tank before you can add any fish. Then add one fish at a time in the tank...do a stick dip test for ammonia (only ammonia as a dip stick test, any reading means do a water change. for all other tests use the drops, lab type), every day and maybe twice a day...any sign of ammonia do a water change. A small quarantine can go bad fast, so you must keep a close eye on parameters. Watch the fish for 4 weeks for any sign of illness or parasites. It's easier to treat a 10g quarantine tank then your display full of life and live rock.
Please don't take this the wrong way...but your very next purchase should be a good saltwater beginners book, don't do or buy anything until you have read it through.
Last edited:
mandy111
Active Member
People often say all test are good, but it certainly helps if we have those number you are mentioning are "good"
People have a different interpretations of good.
In particular what are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings and of course Salinity. These are the numbers we need to help diagnose why your fish are dying.
mandy111
Active Member
Sorry new to this forum, what does rest ÏDK"mean.
I know the api is color coded but can you give me numbers please,,, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate ?
EG is ammonia 0 or 5 is nitrate 5 or 25 etc, would be really helpful....thanks.
Kristin1234
Active Member
Idk- I don't know.
mandy111
Active Member
Ok. If fish are dying I would suggest your ammonia is a problem. Api test kits are not great test kit and are renowned for in accuracy. I would get some seachem prime ( makes ammonia nitrite. & nitrates harmless) keep up the water changes. & invest in some more accurate test kits. Eg. Sailifert are cheap easy to use & very accurate. Water changes & prime should help your situation and give you some time to stabilise your water conditions. Hope this helps. !
jay0705
Well-Known Member
Ah ha!!!!!! Sw is not all the same. Not only can salinity be different but also water chemistry. Its common for me to get fish from lfs that keep there salinity at 1.017. It keeps disease at a minimal. My tanks are between 1.023-1.027. I just put a fish in that from 1.017, and I'll have dead fish
Kristin1234
Active Member
Yea, Jay found your problem. To acclimate my fish I put the bag in the water for bout 10 minutes to get the same temp, then dump bag into my fish designated bowl, and add 1/2 cup of aquarium water every 10 minutes till the bowl is almost full (usually about an hour), then net the fish out and place it in the tank. I've always been told to never put the lfs water into my home aquarium.