Is my tank cycled?

[Kronic]

I started my tank with live rock, bagged live sand, and pre mixed saltwater, 15 days ago. I never saw an ammonia spike, but I didn't test the water for a few days after I set it up. On day three, my first test, my nitrites had spiked to 2.0ppm. I tested every couple of days until I saw my nitrite drop to zero. I've been testing everyday now since Monday and my results are always the same, ammonia 0-0.25ppm, nitrites 0-ppm(API test has slight variation in color but it is definitely still blue), nitrates 20-40ppm. I add a few marine flakes every other day and the results are the same. Is my tank cycled? Should I do a water change, or just wait awhile?

 

[jay0705]

If your showing ammonia, nitrate, nitrite then yes it has started cycling. Ammonia should be zero tho. I would continue to watch it and once the ammonia drops to zero you should show minimal nitrate . Your tank is fully cycled. You can add some macro alage which feeds off those components but its notnecessary

 

[pegasus]

As low as ammonia is, zero nitrite, and nitrate as high as it is, I'd do a large water change and test it again after two or three days. I think you'll see a big difference at that time. You'll want to get the nitrate down (way down) and that'll only be accomplished by water changes. Try to get it down to less than 10 ppm, while 5 ppm or less would be even better. Macros will feed on ammonia, nitrite, and phosphorus is present... but not nitrate. It will take awhile for the bacteria that consumes nitrate to colonize the sand (if deep enough) and rocks (even though they're live) as this is the final stage of the nitrogen cycle. With enough sand and live rock, nitrate becomes very manageable... but few people keep enough of these to make a noticeable difference. Once ammonia and nitrite register zero and you have nitrate at a low level, you can begin to stock the tank... s-l-o-w-l-y.

Edit: I meant to say "phosphate if present"... not "phosphorus is present".

 

[Kronic]

Alright I'm going to do a 25% water change and test it again Saturday. Thanks for the help!

 

[pegasus]

Alright I'm going to do a 25% water change and test it again Saturday. Thanks for the help!

Anytime...

 

[Kronic]

So I did a 20% water change last night and tested my water with the API test kit today in the afternoon. My ammonia still read between 0 and 0.25, nitrite 0, an nitrate came down to between 10 and 20ppm. Earlier in the week I ordered a Red Sea ammonia test kit and it arrived an hour ago. After testing ammonia with the Red Sea kit I'm reading 0ppm. So with zero ammonia and zero nitrite I should be clear to add a small CUC, yes?

 

[jay0705]

Yup your good. Another reason api sucks

 

[silverado61]

Patience grasshopper. Do another water change and test again on Sunday. If ammonia and nitrites are still zero and nitrates are ten or below, do one last water change. Then you can add a single fish after you have quarantined it for at least three weeks. A month is better to make sure its disease and parasite free.

 

[silverado61]

Yup your good. Another reason api sucks

+1 on the clean up crew. What size tank is it?

 

[pegasus]

So I did a 20% water change last night and tested my water with the API test kit today in the afternoon. My ammonia still read between 0 and 0.25, nitrite 0, an nitrate came down to between 10 and 20ppm. Earlier in the week I ordered a Red Sea ammonia test kit and it arrived an hour ago. After testing ammonia with the Red Sea kit I'm reading 0ppm. So with zero ammonia and zero nitrite I should be clear to add a small CUC, yes?

As you will find, most of us that have been in the hobby for awhile will all tell you that API test kits suck. They are notorious for being inaccurate, and once they get a little age on them, they're even more inaccurate. Rea Sea, Salifert, and even Elos beat API hands-down. They cost more, and there's a reason... they're superior. The life of your tank depends on one thing... good water parameters. You'll pay more for quality test kits, but you'll actually save money in the long run as the loss of a fish or two will easily wipe out any savings you may have gotten by buying a cheap test kit.

I was allowing for the variance in API tests, and that's why I suggested doing a water change and testing again. If you had gotten similar results after a water change, then you would know that it was an error on API's end. However, you'll often get different readings on back-to-back tests using API. Instead of buying a Red Sea Ammonia test, I wish you had bought a Nitrate test. Your tank has cycled, and unless there's a big change to the system, Nitrate will be all you need to test for on a regular basis. Not saying it's not a good idea to check Ammonia and Nitrite every now and then, but it's not critical. If you stock the tank slowly to allow the biosystem to adjust to the new load, Ammonia and Nitrite shouldn't be a concern. The only time either of those should be a concern is if there is a death of a large(r) critter and it begins to decay in the tank. This can give a short-term ammonia (and consequently Nitrite) spike... which can be handled with a simple water change if it spikes too high. Normally it will level off fairly quickly on it's own if levels don't go too high. A good cleanup crew will help reduce spikes caused by a dead critter by eating it before it has a chance to decay. Nassarius snails and hermits are awesome at this task.

 

[Connorer]

I started my tank with live rock, bagged live sand, and pre mixed saltwater, 15 days ago. I never saw an ammonia spike, but I didn't test the water for a few days after I set it up. On day three, my first test, my nitrites had spiked to 2.0ppm. I tested every couple of days until I saw my nitrite drop to zero. I've been testing everyday now since Monday and my results are always the same, ammonia 0-0.25ppm, nitrites 0-ppm(API test has slight variation in color but it is definitely still blue), nitrates 20-40ppm. I add a few marine flakes every other day and the results are the same. Is my tank cycled? Should I do a water change, or just wait awhile?

I don't know if you got the same brand, but my live sand had a sachet that made it ready for inverts instantly - i was sceptical but i added two shrimp the next day and they're still there, happy as ever 2 months later!

 

[Kronic]

I went to my LFS and had him test my water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Those API test kits are truly garbage. He said he still saw ammonia on his red sea kit but it looked yellow to me. He also used the red sea kits for nitrite and nitrate, and there was definitely still a trace of nitrite and my nitrate is s high it was unreadable on it. Over 50ppm thats for sure. I'm just gonna let run till Monday and look at getting a good nitrate test kit.

 

[Kronic]

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Kronic]

Tank size is a 29g biocube, coralife.

 

[pegasus]

I went to my LFS and had him test my water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Those API test kits are truly garbage. He said he still saw ammonia on his red sea kit but it looked yellow to me. He also used the red sea kits for nitrite and nitrate, and there was definitely still a trace of nitrite and my nitrate is s high it was unreadable on it. Over 50ppm thats for sure. I'm just gonna let run till Monday and look at getting a good nitrate test kit.

Now you know... lol! I know it's not cost effective, but the tank could use a large (50% +) water change. You said you use premixed saltwater, so I'm guessing bottled saltwater... right? Using pre-mixed saltwater can get expensive in a short amount of time, and that's why most of us have an RO/DI unit and mix our own saltwater. It's a bit pricey up front, but will easily pay for itself over the cost of pre-mixed. How much is a gallon of saltwater selling for these days? $2 - $3? Multiply that amount by the number of gallons you'll go through each month just for routine water changes (not counting emergencies), then multiply that times 12. The figure you come up with for a year's worth of premixed saltwater may surprise you...

 

[silverado61]

Now you know... lol! I know it's not cost effective, but the tank could use a large (50% +) water change. You said you use premixed saltwater, so I'm guessing bottled saltwater... right? Using pre-mixed saltwater can get expensive in a short amount of time, and that's why most of us have an RO/DI unit and mix our own saltwater. It's a bit pricey up front, but will easily pay for itself over the cost of pre-mixed. How much is a gallon of saltwater selling for these days? $2 - $3? Multiply that amount by the number of gallons you'll go through each month just for routine water changes (not counting emergencies), then multiply that times 12. The figure you come up with for a year's worth of premixed saltwater may surprise you...

Not to mention premixed saltwater, sitting in a bottle and not being agitated. With whatever settling to the bottom who knows what the salinity or calcium level really is without testing each bottle. Even with a good shaking I wouldn't think the levels are the same from one bottle to the next.

 

[jay0705]

Agreed. I will mix my water week's' ahead, but still let a powerhead run before using

 

[pegasus]

Agreed. I will mix my water week's' ahead, but still let a powerhead run before using

Same here. I also keep mine heated to the tank's temp after mixing.

 

[Kronic]

I am looking into an ro/di unit but at the moment its not in my budget. My LFS sells their saltwater at $1 a gallon and they mix it at the store, its not bottled. Salinity is 1.025 every time I've gotten it so far, so it will do for now till I can start mixing my own. So u suggest a 50% water change? Should I do that today?

 

[pegasus]

I am looking into an ro/di unit but at the moment its not in my budget. My LFS sells their saltwater at $1 a gallon and they mix it at the store, its not bottled. Salinity is 1.025 every time I've gotten it so far, so it will do for now till I can start mixing my own. So u suggest a 50% water change? Should I do that today?

$1 a gallon isn't bad. Not bad at all. Much better than I expected, but it's probably due to the fact that they mix it there. Commercial saltwater is easily double.

If you have the water, you should go ahead and change it. The sooner you get your levels down, the sooner it should be ready for stocking. By the way... have you had the LFS test their water for TDS? Just curious...