SimplyAnchored
New Member
That's what I thought, too. What do you suggest?
Moving a toxic tank help!
- Thread starter SimplyAnchored
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reefkeeperZ
Member
true
That doesn't make any sense, you dont swap out all the filters etc, but cleaning a tank up a bit isn't going to hurt anything, in fact when moving is a great time to take your rock and swish it around in seawater, or blast it with powerheads to un impact the pores in the rock and remove organic waste so you are introducing less crap into the new tank. there is probably never a better time since you have to pull all the rock and sand anyway, washing it with marine water to clean the gunk out can only do good.
Agreed
No. Though I'm curious as to your logic as to how they get eliminated when he adds water. Since they are absorbed through cation exchange into the rock and sand. adding water does not neutralize these. only and extended period of being surrounded by water lower in those nutrients which will allow the rock to release them back into the water or consumption by algae. Only the free floating nutrients in the water will be gone not what is absorbed into the rock and sand.
reefkeeperZ
Member
When your doing a massive change to a system like you plan, it's going to have some serious fluctuations no matter how you do it. since you are upgrading (which is something I have done at least once) here is what I recomend.
Wash everything you are putting in the new tank with salt water, most of it you can use old tank water for washing, use a 5 gallon bucket, when it gets super nasty, get some cleaner dirty tank water to use. including your filters. washing the gunk out and leaving the bacteria is good. KEEP EVERYTHING WET at all times. when you wash the filter cartriges throw them into a bucket of water for transport,
I prefer to move my rock in buckets of water to eliminate die off as much as possible. you can cover them with wet towels or whatever. but the problem is on bigger rocks, the ******** of the rocks form anaerobic bacteria to some extent and letting the water drain out introduces oxygen to parts of the rock that don't normally have access to oxygen killing anaerobic bacteria releasing toxins and creating a greater spike during recovery. (even when I buy rock I bring a bucket of water to transport it in with me). Also some rock life like the cool little sponges and stuff are sensitive to air embolisms and can die off the longer they are exposed the greater the die off.
I do the change as fast as I humanly can, I get the tank ready to receive everything, before tear down begins. I put a couple inches of new water in the new tank and have it heated and oxygenated. thus when I add my sand its under water immediately, same with the rock, if there's too much rock I add water as I go trying to keep it submerged as much as I can.
Drip acclimate all tank inhabitants, to adjust them to the new water, so you don't cause an osmotic imbalance in anything. they are going to be stressed from shipping to the new place no reason to make it harder on them.
have plenty of seachem prime on hand, you can use it to detoxify ammonia nitrite and nitrate, dosing daily after the change will help detoxify the nutrients your going to get from the spike, this can and does save lives. doing a weekly (or more often) water change over the first couple weeks will help keep the parameters as good as possible and reduce the levels hit when things spike.
test 2-3 times a day at first until you know its not going to go way off the chart. if it does go off the chart dose prime then do a water change and dose again.
simple rule to mnoving and changing tanks is wetter is better. if you can keep everything thats in the tank submerged, do it.
Wash everything you are putting in the new tank with salt water, most of it you can use old tank water for washing, use a 5 gallon bucket, when it gets super nasty, get some cleaner dirty tank water to use. including your filters. washing the gunk out and leaving the bacteria is good. KEEP EVERYTHING WET at all times. when you wash the filter cartriges throw them into a bucket of water for transport,
I prefer to move my rock in buckets of water to eliminate die off as much as possible. you can cover them with wet towels or whatever. but the problem is on bigger rocks, the ******** of the rocks form anaerobic bacteria to some extent and letting the water drain out introduces oxygen to parts of the rock that don't normally have access to oxygen killing anaerobic bacteria releasing toxins and creating a greater spike during recovery. (even when I buy rock I bring a bucket of water to transport it in with me). Also some rock life like the cool little sponges and stuff are sensitive to air embolisms and can die off the longer they are exposed the greater the die off.
I do the change as fast as I humanly can, I get the tank ready to receive everything, before tear down begins. I put a couple inches of new water in the new tank and have it heated and oxygenated. thus when I add my sand its under water immediately, same with the rock, if there's too much rock I add water as I go trying to keep it submerged as much as I can.
Drip acclimate all tank inhabitants, to adjust them to the new water, so you don't cause an osmotic imbalance in anything. they are going to be stressed from shipping to the new place no reason to make it harder on them.
have plenty of seachem prime on hand, you can use it to detoxify ammonia nitrite and nitrate, dosing daily after the change will help detoxify the nutrients your going to get from the spike, this can and does save lives. doing a weekly (or more often) water change over the first couple weeks will help keep the parameters as good as possible and reduce the levels hit when things spike.
test 2-3 times a day at first until you know its not going to go way off the chart. if it does go off the chart dose prime then do a water change and dose again.
simple rule to mnoving and changing tanks is wetter is better. if you can keep everything thats in the tank submerged, do it.
flower
Well-Known Member
Wow...That was a mouthful...LOL..
As for point #1: I didn't say anything against blasting the rock or swishing it with seawater, which is a great idea, I only mentioned the sand. I said to not clean the filter media, or go taking apart and scrubbing up the power heads. It's very tempting to scrub everything squeaky clean on a move while everything is all apart, but when you change media and scrub the plastic power heads, you are scrubbing away good bacteria. I also instructed how to go about cleaning those things up slowly after the move.
As for point #3: We do water changes in an established tank, that's how we remove nitrates and phosphates, which is one reason why we do water changes.. I was simply saying that he doesn't need to worry himself right now about nitrates or phosphates, a move requires an all out effort to preserve the good bacteria to prevent an ammonia spike. He is adding all new seawater, which is essentially a great big 100% water change, and if he is diligent to do his maintenance, he will clean up the nitrates and phosphates he may be concerned about....my logic is that dilution is the solution to pollution.
He is upgrading, and using live sand will help, but the established bacteria matches his livestock... it needs to be preserved for a successful move. I have moved 5Xs, swapped out a 55g with a new 55g (leak) and upgraded 2xs and I have never not once had any ammonia spike, because I do exactly what I told the original poster to do.
As for point #1: I didn't say anything against blasting the rock or swishing it with seawater, which is a great idea, I only mentioned the sand. I said to not clean the filter media, or go taking apart and scrubbing up the power heads. It's very tempting to scrub everything squeaky clean on a move while everything is all apart, but when you change media and scrub the plastic power heads, you are scrubbing away good bacteria. I also instructed how to go about cleaning those things up slowly after the move.
As for point #3: We do water changes in an established tank, that's how we remove nitrates and phosphates, which is one reason why we do water changes.. I was simply saying that he doesn't need to worry himself right now about nitrates or phosphates, a move requires an all out effort to preserve the good bacteria to prevent an ammonia spike. He is adding all new seawater, which is essentially a great big 100% water change, and if he is diligent to do his maintenance, he will clean up the nitrates and phosphates he may be concerned about....my logic is that dilution is the solution to pollution.
He is upgrading, and using live sand will help, but the established bacteria matches his livestock... it needs to be preserved for a successful move. I have moved 5Xs, swapped out a 55g with a new 55g (leak) and upgraded 2xs and I have never not once had any ammonia spike, because I do exactly what I told the original poster to do.
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reefkeeperZ
Member
The post I see which I replied to says "when moving a tank don't clean it up" you didn't clarify any thing about not changing filters, which I made sure to point out in my reply not to do that, and you expressly said not to wash the sand. washing the sand is not going to remove biofilm, in fact you would have a hard time removing biofilm with a pressure washer. washing the sand in seawater is only going to remove garbage and leave all the bacteria behind. I'm not sure you understand bio-film if you are worried that a mere washing will even dent it.
and as for #3 you said adding water would "eliminate them", I fail to see how, will it reduce the overall available amount yes from the water. Dilution IS the solution to pollution, I agree worrying about them is partially a non-issue during a move (there are more important issues at hand), but saying new water will eliminate them is just way off base and incorrect, it will help reduce them.
sorry i don't have a count as to how many set ups I've swapped over, rebuilt, and moved over the years(though at one point I had over 76 tank set up at once and moved reducing down to 50 during the move, yeah that was a hell week). the best results for me, survival and ease of the following months, was through thoroughly cleaning all gunk out and keeping bacteria alive, using the methods I have described. I'm not saying your way wont work, I just prefer my way (more than one way to skin a cat)
and as for #3 you said adding water would "eliminate them", I fail to see how, will it reduce the overall available amount yes from the water. Dilution IS the solution to pollution, I agree worrying about them is partially a non-issue during a move (there are more important issues at hand), but saying new water will eliminate them is just way off base and incorrect, it will help reduce them.
sorry i don't have a count as to how many set ups I've swapped over, rebuilt, and moved over the years(though at one point I had over 76 tank set up at once and moved reducing down to 50 during the move, yeah that was a hell week). the best results for me, survival and ease of the following months, was through thoroughly cleaning all gunk out and keeping bacteria alive, using the methods I have described. I'm not saying your way wont work, I just prefer my way (more than one way to skin a cat)
SimplyAnchored
New Member
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm following along and taking notes.
not that it matters .... but I'm a she
Anywho, I've read all of your posts a few times to make sure I understand. I think what I';m stuck with now is, how do I clear my rock of the Aiptasia? Before the move? After? If I addd a shrimp to clean it now it will surly die as my tank is not suitable for new livestock.
not that it matters .... but I'm a she
Anywho, I've read all of your posts a few times to make sure I understand. I think what I';m stuck with now is, how do I clear my rock of the Aiptasia? Before the move? After? If I addd a shrimp to clean it now it will surly die as my tank is not suitable for new livestock.
reefkeeperZ
Member
Duly noted. LOLnot that it matters .... but I'm a she
.
as for the aiptasia, thats a hard call as to how to go about it, adding shrimp will probably mean dead shrimp and shrimp can take a long time to eradicate aiptasia, and they usually only go after the smallest. nuking the aiptasia with an aptasia treatment is going to be killing stuff on the rock creating pollution if you were to nuke it then move you may create more of a Spike.
I guess mky question is how much time do you have before the move, or rather before you have to move it? is there a time limit or can you take your time?
SimplyAnchored
New Member
That's what I don't want to happen. I don't want to basically sacrifice a shrimp to rid the problem.
I have until the beginning of July to have everything fully moved and set up in my new place. So I have a little bit of time.
I'm just not sure what I should do to the current tank and what should be done once it's moved. Do I just leave the rock alone, move it with the aiptasia on it, then get a shrimp to take care of the problem after the move?
I have until the beginning of July to have everything fully moved and set up in my new place. So I have a little bit of time.
I'm just not sure what I should do to the current tank and what should be done once it's moved. Do I just leave the rock alone, move it with the aiptasia on it, then get a shrimp to take care of the problem after the move?
deejeff0442
Active Member
I have dealt with aptasia a bunch of times.i find that adding only a couple shrimp peppermints dont do much.they seem to hide.but if i added at least 10 or 12 they go to town.i had around 200 apastias at one poing some pretty big.the shrimp got rid of them in a couple weeks.that being said they were expensive and half died a month after.probably from the lack of food.
SimplyAnchored
New Member
I have a ton of aiptasia - they started to grow 3 years ago when I walked away from the tank. They haven't harmed my fish but they are taking over.
reefkeeperZ
Member
you have 2 months roughly... hm myself, I would get some aptasia x or some joes juice and hit the biggest ones right away in the next couple weeks then let the tank recover before the move, doing regular water changes over the next month or so, do the move, wait a couple weeks/months for the spike etc to settle out if you have one then take care of the rest through natural means or more juice.
SimplyAnchored
New Member
Will juicing my tank stress the fish?
deejeff0442
Active Member
Also if you just poke them and they put out that white cloud .thats spores that multiply like crazy.myself since the hooby costs so much anyway i just go get a dozen shrimp.probably cost up to 100 dollars .but to me it beats trying to shoot them with a needle of joes juice.it would take too long
reefkeeperZ
Member
not in and of itself, but if you kill a bunch of aip without doing water changes to clean the pollution of dying anemone bad things will happen.
SimplyAnchored
New Member
oy vey.
I truly appreciate you all taking your time to help me!
I truly appreciate you all taking your time to help me!
reefkeeperZ
Member
Don't over stress about it. Moving alone is enough of a challenge, the aip will still be there once your settled. one thing about aiptasia, people tend to see them as bad. can they be? yes they tend to take over and sting sensitive corals etc, but they are AWESOME particulate filters, think of them as active mechanical filtration whereas your filter pads are passive. They will actually help nail down free floating crud in your tank as you change it over, they are gluttons. they will probably be easiest to deal with once the move is over for you. and you can pick away at them slowly if there is a lot of them any impact before the move will be minimal and you'll still have to deal with them after. so rather than tear your hair out over one more thing deal with them after.
SimplyAnchored
New Member
Maybe that's why my tank has stayed as clean as it is for being neglected for 3 years! The water is actually clear, surprisingly. I do not have corals so I'm not concerned about that.
Okay maybe when I switch tank I'll get the shrimp and have them slowly pick away at it.