dangerfish
Member
btw the stuff you see at the bottom by the heater is algae that died and fell off I only have one leaf (if thats what you call it) that is living down their if you want to see more pictures I can give em to you if you want.
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- Thread starter dangerfish
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2quills
Well-Known Member
My fixture is 6" above the surface.
If the lighting is too intense you can burn the algae by having it too close to the surface especially on a 24/7 cycle.
But if a lack of light is the problem then moving it closure should help a bit.
Some people may not even need to run it that long. Just depends on the situation and what testing tells you.
2quills
Well-Known Member
The spectral output of leds vs other types of lighting is a long and boring topic. But it isn't the color temperature (Kelvin rating) of the led that's important.
To make a long story short you'd do far better with 3 deep red leds than you would with 6500k leds simply because they don't hit the sweep spot in the light spectrum for chlorophyll to receive it's energy.
There are two key zones in the light spectrum for photosynthesis to happen. And they are what I would effectionately call the deep red and deep blue zone.
Your algae is either dying because the light isn't supporting it's biomass or because it's too focused on one location for too long and is burning it.
Have you tested for nitrate?
2quills
Well-Known Member
A lot depends on the fixture. 36 individual 1 watt leds for instance doesn't typically put out the same amount of lumens that a 12 - 3watt fixture would.
I'll never know the specs of everyone's individual situation so the best I can say is experiment. If the algae isn't burning than kick up the power.
Mine actually alternates between 40% - 80% power. More powerful at night oposite of the display. That's probably worth noting.
2quills
Well-Known Member
I'd try 24/7 and see if it makes a difference. The object is to out compete the display or else it's never really gonna work. Manual algae removal from the display helps.
I don't want to down grade some of those fixtures on ebay. Some of them work great. Others not so much. It depends on the specific bins/lots/batches they are made from.
Think of it on a grading scale. Each one that rolls off the assembly line gets graded.
Affordable fixtures are pretty much always using the low grade stuff and spectral output can very greatly from one led to another of the same type of color.
But I digress. It's buyer beware out there.
one-fish
Active Member
Will do still in the experimenting stage both of height and duration BTW this is the light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWZVBIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thx ...
So 2quills, I have both Chaeto and caulerpa serrulata in my fuge.
What lighting period would you run?
I'm currently running 19/5. What would you suggest?
Regarding the comments about the rest period, I was taught that plants require a dark phase to stimulate respiration and growth because they turn off the opposite process (photosynthesis). Have you tried something like 24hrs vs 23/1hrs? That 1hr resp gap might give the plants an edge over 24hrs a day.
Also I didn't something dumb the other day, I thought "oh let's turn off the refugium lights for 2 days to kill the cyano!" And it worked it all died...and then spread all over my display tank where the lights were on...stupid me..
What lighting period would you run?
I'm currently running 19/5. What would you suggest?
Regarding the comments about the rest period, I was taught that plants require a dark phase to stimulate respiration and growth because they turn off the opposite process (photosynthesis). Have you tried something like 24hrs vs 23/1hrs? That 1hr resp gap might give the plants an edge over 24hrs a day.
Also I didn't something dumb the other day, I thought "oh let's turn off the refugium lights for 2 days to kill the cyano!" And it worked it all died...and then spread all over my display tank where the lights were on...stupid me..
2quills
Well-Known Member
Algae aren't plants they are less complex unicellular organisms. But they both respiratate and they don't need to be encouraged to do so. When they aren't growing the expell excess c02 that isn't being converted durring photosynthesis.
And yes I've tried shorter periods of dark time and no I don't think makes a difference unless you are out growing certain limiting factors like nutrients.
This was the picture I took 4 nights ago
And this is this morning.
Now you probably understand why I've recommended reducing the photo period in the display tank and increase the refugium. My whole whole philosophy is to train the nasties to grow where you want them until u get them under control.
dangerfish
Member
No its this light http://www.**************.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=29013&cmpid=03cseYY&ref=6194&subref=AA&cmpid=PLA_G_6194&gclid=CIyCntuzydACFQ9Efgod4IID6Q
And my light is about 7 inch away from the water surface. And I dont really know how to higher or lower light because it only goes in a fixed position, Would I higher and lower the water level?
dangerfish
Member
And my nitrate is at 0
2quills
Well-Known Member
Is there algae growing in the display?
I don't know what's turning yours white but if I could make a simple recommendation without seeming brash it would be to get rid of that type of caulerpa as soon as you can.
My LFS's have some tanks that are plagued with that stuff. It drives me crazy every time I see it. Grows and spreads like a weed throughout the entire system and they are unable able to eradicate it without breaking down the systems.
Just my .02
But if you have algae growing in the display then it's probably out competing the stuff in the sump or the algae has been stressed in some way.
dangerfish
Member
Yeah I do have some algae growing in the display tank im planning on getting some snails to help eat it all.
dangerfish
Member
because i have a lot and it is driving me crazy
dangerfish
Member
and I'll also get a different algae when I can
