Aquarium move and detailed in wall build

A while back I asked for advice on moving my tank from main floor to the basement. In the process I decided to build the tank in wall and would like to share how the process went. I would be happy to answer any questions afterwards as well if anyone is curious how I did anything. The tank is a 120 gallon reef.

I started with the transfer of rock, sand, fish, and water. I used trash cans and storage containers to move everything.

This is the wall I wanted to put the tank in. It has a storage room behind it that would hold tank and filtration system. We put the tank in our kids play basement.

Next I removed the drywall and the insulation on the ******** of the storage room. I also ran new electrical wire and outlets so that I could power everything in the tank and the filtration system.

Next I put the cabinet stand that I had used before on the main floor in the storage closet along with the tank and took measurements so that I could cut out the drywall on the other side.

I then used a chalk line to outline where I would be cutting the drywall based off of my previous measurements.

Then I used a jigsaw to cut out the wall. I used a jigsaw because I needed to cut through the studs as well as the drywall also the jigsaw is maneuverable in a way a skill saw is not. .

The jigsaw blade was not deep enough to cut through the studs so I came back with a skill saw and cut them on the other side to remove the studs.
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When I was done the wall looked like this.

This is what the tank looked like after I put it flush up into the wall.

Next I began to readd the sand and water.

I then cut molding and painted it black so as to hide the cuts in the wall and to hide the brown wood casing around the tank.

I then hung the T5's from the ceilings and then the metal halides getting rid of my old light cabinet that was very heavy to move and contained too much heat from halides.

Next I plummed in the sump system with skimmer, refugium, and return pump

When I was done and reset up the tank looked something like this.
Hope you enjoy and again if you have any questions feel free to ask!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
What shawn meant was to put a 2x12" board placed horizonally actoss thr top of the tank and tied into the studs so that those studs would be resting on that board (the header) rather than the rim of the tank. Its standard building procedure on doors and windows and other casements.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yes, that looks like a load bearing wall. You should re structure it so that it can still support the load incase it is. Otherwise your floor joists may eventially start to sag causing other structural issues.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Yeah. I would hate for the studs to put so much pressure on the tank rim that it cracks. A header would really help alleviate the pressure.
 

acrylic51

Active Member



What I meant by a header is sorta illustrated here in the last pic I posted......As Corey stated it could be a load bearing wall, but hard to tell, but for safety sake where you you cut the bottoms off the 2x4's from the top of the ceiling......The ends basically need to be capped something like this at the top.....Rather hard for me to explain, but hoping Corey will jump in and unmangle what I'm saying, but what you'd want to do is double up either 2x4's or 2x6's or whatever to carry the load above and then extend your 2x4's down that you cut to just above the top of the tank, but the 2x4's would need to be shortened more to put in a 2x4 or 2x6 header; meaning the piece just above the tank would actually be on end......and you would double them up making a laminated beam....then at the bottom of the tank or the bottom of the opening you would do something what I would call maybe a plate which again would be double up 2x4's or 2x6's and then your 2x4 studs would connect to that to the sill plate that is lagged or nailed to the floor itself....How its done right now you structurally have little to no support for the drywall.....A good push inward will drive that top portion of the drywall into your setup.....I know it's not planned, but at times things can get out of hand.......
 

acrylic51

Active Member
The other issue I see is the exposed studs.....Well any exposed wood sitting directly over a tank. Those studs will start to absorb moisture; water whatever it may be and will cause premature rot and possibly other issues as well.....At least seal the ends. Actually I would cut them short, install the top plate/header and my personal choice in this instance would be to cover the 2x4's with either drywall or FRP board with FRP adhesive would be easiest, but I'd try to seal the studs off from the tank itself.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/395148/aquarium-move-and-detailed-in-wall-build#post_3517405

Rather hard for me to explain, but hoping Corey will jump in and unmangle what I'm saying, but what you'd want to do is double up either 2x4's or 2x6's or whatever to carry the load above and then extend your 2x4's down that you cut to just above the top of the tank, but the 2x4's would need to be shortened more to put in a 2x4 or 2x6 header; meaning the piece just above the tank would actually be on end......and you would double them up making a laminated beam....then at the bottom of the tank or the bottom of the opening you would do something what I would call maybe a plate which again would be double up 2x4's or 2x6's and then your 2x4 studs would connect to that to the sill plate that is lagged or nailed to the floor itself....How its done right now you structurally have little to no support for the drywall.....A good push inward will drive that top portion of the drywall into your setup.....I know it's not planned, but at times things can get out of hand.......
Sounds like you covered it pretty, Shawn. 2x6's laminated together should be just fine. Don't forget to add the Jack studs (vertical 2x4's to support the header which supports the load) on either side of the header. Anytime I see a wall that runs perpendicular with ceiling joists or in this case floor joists since it's a basement that's pretty much a clear indicator that it's load bearing. Therefore it needs to be re-enforced if you're going to cut into it.
Even if the home didn't initially have that wall built in the original plans, most homes are only ever built up to minimum code. And minimum code in most cases is still not ideal. Anytime you can add support to your house by adding a wall is all the more better. If the wall has been there for a while then odds are it's already supporting some weight to a degree.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Yup, i agree with what shawn and corey said.
But expanding on the idea of moisture buildup and rot, i would take the tank back from the wall and go ahead and finish the entire inside wall to seal it and put a good coat of ******** paint on it as well. There may not be any problems for a long time, but unfinished wood is the worst for succumbing to rot
 
wow lots of great advice. I've got a couple things left to do I guess. Also the wall is not load bearing. It was framed in to build a small storage closet but it is carrying no load I made sure of that before cutting into it. I can definitely come in there and seal everything up in the room and put the header in. Thanks for the advice.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/395148/aquarium-move-and-detailed-in-wall-build#post_3517432
Yup, i agree with what shawn and corey said.
But expanding on the idea of moisture buildup and rot, i would take the tank back from the wall and go ahead and finish the entire inside wall to seal it and put a good coat of ******** paint on it as well. There may not be any problems for a long time, but unfinished wood is the worst for succumbing to rot
Agree, but I see he already has the tank filled and would be a PITA that's why I mentioned the FRP board....Could be cut easily and glued into place without disrupting the tank.....
 
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