Tangs keep dying in Quarantine

Discussion in 'Fish Discussion' started by Dneon95, Mar 12, 2018.

  1. Dneon95

    Dneon95 New Member

    So I have had no luck keeping Tangs of late. Over the past 6 months I have tried 3 Yellow Tangs from various places. I drip acclimate and put them in a quarantine tank, generally for a month. I scrub the tank, heater and all parts between fish and make Fresh RODI, and make the salinity .025. A small fiter, heater, and large PVC pipe for them to swim through. I only have one fish in there at a time. I havent got one to last more then 2 weeks, and usually they have died within a few days. I went to a local fish store over the weekend and purchased a Power Brown. I know, more trouble then a yellow, but I have been doing this for years, and am familiar. I dripped him for 3 hours then moved him in. Again new water, and this time a new heater, and new filter for better water movement connected to my air point. This one ate on Sat and Sun and swam around happy. Sunday night i came down, and he was on his side struggling, like all the other tangs did. He died later on after doing my best to get him back. I am so frustrated with the amount of money i have spent on these fish. The Clowns, Tangs , Gobies and StarFish are extremely healthy in my DT. I use the same RODI and Salt to do their water changes, so that can't be the issue. Does anyone have any idea whats going wrong? Its so frustrating. I don't think its bad fish anymore. but I am out of ideas.
     
  2. silverado61

    silverado61 Well-Known Member

    What are you using to clean your equipment?
     
  3. jay0705

    jay0705 Administrator Staff Member

    You say new water, is your qt cycled? R u testing the water?
     
  4. lmforbis

    lmforbis Administrator Staff Member

    It sounds like ammonia and/or poor oxygenation. Do you monitor ammonia while fish is in QT? Do you have adequate water movement to maximize oxygenation? Are you treating with any meds?

    I assume any tang I buy is infected with some sort of parasite and treat accordingly. Two weeks of tank transfers and prazipro, two doses. I’ve had ich on every one I’ve ever bought, sometimes shows later but always there. I had one yellow that had regular ich and black ich.
     
  5. Dneon95

    Dneon95 New Member

    Cleaning is the one thing I assume is the issue. Its the the same as always though. I scrub the tank and heater with soap and sometimes vinegar, rinse it out well with RODI and let completely dry. The water movement is fine. The dual sponge filter i use in quarantine brings water up from the bottom and shoots it back up top. I have never in years needed to use a power head in quarantine as long as there is enough movement. It's a 10G tank for a month, there never really is a powerhead small enough. As for medicating, I always assume every tang is sick when I get it, and always treat with Paraguard. I used to use :prazi and Cupramine but a couple years ago Prazi was killing a number of fish, and the LFS told me to stop using it. Paraguard works much better. However, I dont medicate until the fish has been in there and eaten for 2 straight days. Half the time, they dont seem to make it that long. For testing the water, whats there really to test? Its RODI that comes out 0ppm and reef crystals salt mixed to 0.25. There is nothing really to recycle in QT. Usually nothing is in there. No live rock because of the meds. Same way I have done it forever.
     
  6. jay0705

    jay0705 Administrator Staff Member

    A few things. 1- a 10gal is too small for a tang. It will cause a huge amount of stress being cramped.
    2- a qt does need to be cycled, your sponge filter will load up w bacteria but only if its continually run.
    3- kind of touches on 1, tangs need lots of oxygen so just a sponge in a small 10 gal qt isn't enough.
    Personally i think your getting an ammonia spike once the fish is added, that combined w low water volume and low flow equals almost sure death
     
  7. Dneon95

    Dneon95 New Member

    It's the same way I've done it for years but I'm willing to try something new. I've used the same 10g tank for QT for years. I would think it's fine for a 3in tang for a month alone in there. All others have been. When I check ammonia it's fine. It's single fish and I changed the water weekly. 2 days spiking that high would seem excessive. I'l try something new though. How do you suggest I recycle it? Just run it a couple days ahead of time with nothing in the there? Any recommendation on a small powerhead or something to move the water better?
     
  8. jay0705

    jay0705 Administrator Staff Member

    Have you ever successfully kept a tang in it? Other fish can handle it fine.
    Personally i would use a 20L, get a new sponge filter and leave it in your dt for a month or 2. Then put it in your qt
     
  9. Dneon95

    Dneon95 New Member

    Yeah I've been using the same QT for years. My hippo was in there and even my butterfly who's 5 plus inches. Countless others. So leave the sponge filter in the display tank and then move it? Interesting. I can try to run it in the sump if I can find room. I guess thats one way to build up the bacteria. Do you suggest keeping the QT running at all times even if nothing is in there?
     
  10. jay0705

    jay0705 Administrator Staff Member

    If you plan to keep adding fish yes. If its a tang then nothing for a year no. The sponge loaded w bacteria will help a ton tho. A nano power head will too. Keep it low pointed upwards
     
  11. silverado61

    silverado61 Well-Known Member

    I think it has something to do with using soap to clean the equipment. I only ever use distilled white vinegar to clean anything fish related. Soap can leave even a trace amount of residue which can kill anything it touches.
     
  12. lmforbis

    lmforbis Administrator Staff Member

    I agree with Silverado. No soaps ever in a fish tank. Clean with 10% bleach solution and let air dry.
    I also believe you are getting ammonia spikes.

    I don’t cycle my QT but I constantly monitor ammonia and do frequent water changes. I don’t use copper unless it is the only option.

    You don’t need to put your whole sponge filter in the DT just the sponge. I’d start with a new sponge each time. Maybe have 2 or 3 at a time so they are ready when you are and you can pull one out and it is ready. I’d never put a sponge that had been in a QT into my DT.

    Paraguard won’t get rid of ich or velvet, wouldn’t be my choice for a tang. Tangs can be sensitive to meds.

    I use the tank transfer method for all new fish and only PraziPro (2 doses). I have a small power head in my 10 gallon transfer tanks (air stone in my 3 gallons). No filter of any sort, just pvc pipe. If a fish were to show signs of velvet I’d treat with copper but that would be the only reason.
     
  13. jay0705

    jay0705 Administrator Staff Member

    I agree w no soap. However i would think if that was the issue it would kill faster. A few days in seems more ammonia like to me.
     
  14. HKfshkpr1

    HKfshkpr1 New Member

    Sorry late to the party. I had a similar problem when I started my saltwater tank a few months ago. But it was not limited to tangs. I suspected cyanide poisioning at first.
    One day I finally asked the LFS what salinity level they keep thier fish at and was told 1.020. I "thought" I had my water at 1.023 so I lowered that to 1.021 and they started to do better and GUESS WHAT: because of the "old" hydrameter my salinity was actually at 1.028!!! ( I used it for saltwater fish 10 years ago and stopped because too busy then). Now at correct 1.021 I have successfully quarantined my last 10 fish no issues..
     
  15. Dneon95

    Dneon95 New Member

    Thanks for the replies. I have since put a new Yellow Tang and LN hawkfish in my QT. I took the sponges from the DT and also a piece of LR as well. I also have a small filter on there instead of just the sponge filter. They have done great for 3 weeks. I trust Paraguard far more then Prazi. Thats what I used to use, but it killed to many fish for myself as well as the LFS. Many stopped using it. Paraguard wont remove ich, but it will help prevent it, as well as internal parasites. As for the salinity, every LFS keeps there salinity low, thats why I drip every fish into salinity of 1.025 like it should be.
     

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