treat fish with ick

Discussion in 'Fish Disease & Treatment' started by xeanliao, May 14, 2017.

  1. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    Yes, display tank and the hospital both are up. do I need to do anything to lower the PH now?
  2. beth

    beth Administrator Staff Member

    The water changes with fresh water will accomplish that. No lower than 7.8.
    xeanliao likes this.
  3. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    It the 6th day since all the fishes in the hospital and the 2nd day since the salinity gets to 1.008. I am so glad that I bought the refractometer and it just arrived in time. The result really surprised me. The Instant Ocean Hydrometer showed 1.012 while the new arrived refractometer showed that it was already 1.009. I might have killed all the fishes if I have continued lower the salinity based on the hydrometer?

    With the refractometer, I also found that my display tank is actually with 1.021 salinity while I thought it was on 1.025. Maybe that has something to do with why I am not able to raise the magnesium level and my frogspawn and hammer coral has not being growing as fast as they used to be in my old smaller tank when I was using a different hydrometer.

    Back to the hospital, the ammonia seems moving to the right direction. It is still not zero, but reduced to 0.25. The PH also gets lower to 7.8 by itself. All the fishes are active and normal except an expected problem: someone is bully my dearest fish: the Randall goby. The poor guy has lost half of its fin and broken dorsal. No one seems willing to share hiding place with him and he is exposed to be attacked. I caught him and put him in a breeder box in the hospital to protect him. It is a goby he doesn't really need much swim space, right? (still hoping I can just use one tank for all)

    Next, will do 20% water change next weekend, meanwhile will remove debris by removing/replacing smaller amount of water every other day.

    Sound good? Any idea for simple auto top off AND maintaining the salinity level precisely at where it is now? Or anything you would do differently or improvement, please share.
  4. beth

    beth Administrator Staff Member

    Does your refractometer measure ppt? Don't allow salinity to drop lower than 1.009.

    I'd have say, You should have gone with the two tanks and its not too late. At least set it up for your "dearest fish".
  5. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    The water seems stabilized, ammonia has been zero since 3 days ago. However, The blue tank started to get something on the top underneath the dorsal fin on both side of the body, I noticed two days ago, and it looks getting worse today? the dorsal fin looks like getting some small flakes, too?

    Do you know what is that? The blue tank and yellow tank both swim fast together most of the time, but I did not see them fighting? could that be due to fast swimming in the tank that is too small for her and scratch her skin? Or anything I need to react now?

    see the attached picture. the real size is about 2.5 inches long.

    Last edited: May 26, 2017 at 8:48 PM
  6. 2quills

    2quills Administrator Staff Member

    Looks like head and lateral line erosion (HLLE).
  7. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    that sound bad. Thanks for the info I did a quick google, and found the following

    Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

    The condition referred to as head and lateral line erosion (HLLE) is different from the above ailments as it is a non-pathogenic ailment. A tang afflicted with HLLE will present with pitting and scarring along its lateral line and on the head. Fading color is also quite common. Like hole-in-the-head disease, HLLE is not very well understood, but it is our experience that it is often related to malnutrition or prolonged exposure to hyposaline conditions. Stray electric current (e.g., from faulty powerheads) is also sometimes believed to be the culprit.

    Anything I can do?
    Last edited: May 26, 2017 at 9:09 PM
  8. beth

    beth Administrator Staff Member

    It is related to bad nutrition, bad water conditions, stress, cramped quarters resulting in stress, not hyposalinity under normal treatment for ich as long as pH is adequate.
    xeanliao likes this.
  9. 2quills

    2quills Administrator Staff Member

    I'm not totally convinced it isn't just a reaction due to all of the stress it's been through.

    At this point I would just stay the course with hypo and monitor the salinity like a hawk.

    And it needs plenty of nutrition. They are grazers so they are used to picking at food most of the time. Make sure to provide plenty of greens as well as meaty food. Might pick up a liquid vitamin supplement formulated for fish and soak the food in it prior to feeding.
    xeanliao likes this.
  10. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    I only feed my BTA while the DT is in fallow at this moment, and the DT is growing so much more algae everywhere. The tangs must be gazing algae while they were in DT beyond I knew of.

    Thanks for the advices: more water changing, feed more frequent with vitamin supplement, that I can do immediately from now.
  11. beth

    beth Administrator Staff Member

    Zoecon or Selcon are pretty good supplements, especially for fish prone to HLLE.
  12. xeanliao

    xeanliao New Member

    I think I have very good clue what is happening now after the heart-breaking hard lesson: two gobies just died overnight, and a clownfish probably not going to make it. The blue tang is also breathing heavily now.

    The tank must be still in cycling!!! The ammonia is zero, however the nitrite sudden jump to 5ppm when I tested today.

    I immediately set up the other 10-gallon tank, and do 50% water changes with the same hyposaline water I prepared. The clownfish is still bottom up, but would move if I blow water on her. After the 50% water changes, the nitrite still 2ppm. I am thinking to put the dying clown fish in a totally clean prepared hypo salinity water? Do yo think that will give her better chance?
  13. beth

    beth Administrator Staff Member

    Sorry for this trouble. There are no shortcuts in this hobby and putting all those fish in an uncycled tank is a recipe for disaster. How are things going now? Going forward, I'd keep a 10 gal or the 25 up and running as a permanent quarantine tank.

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