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The nems don’t care, they have no brain, no Nervous system. The clown may go back. BTAs are not the normal host for percs but they will go to them sometimes.

Don’t stir it up. You never mess with the sand bed in a SW tank.

Clarkii and maroon. You don’t want either. Both are big clown fish (~6”) range. Way too big for a 24 gal. They are also two of the most aggressive and territorial clowns. The Clarkii is pretty ugly when it is an adult too.

That’s just the way they work. BTA isn’t a natural host for the kind of clown you have. Many clowns like them but they can be fickle.

Probably not the temp. O2 seems more likely.

After the last fish is gone 72 days. Only fish are affected. Without a proper QT system and protocol this will keep happening.

You can’t. The fish will likely die. Your tank is now infected with all the other fish infected. Basically you need a QT big enough to house all your fish, treat them, then keep them in it for 72 days (20 Gal). The display needs to be fishless for 72 days for the parasites to die off.

Fish won’t eat it. it is probably hiding in the rocks. what kind of lighting do you have? Was it healthy to begin with?

This is what I use. I have 2, 100 W heaters in my 120. They provide plenty of heat. I live in Minnesota and I don’t keep my house very warm in the winter, mid 60s. The reason for 2 is that they are known to fail. If one fails ON with one too big heater you will cook your fish quickly. If...

20 long will be good. It needs to be the long. A standard 20 is too tall.

what size tank is his for? 20 gal long not the standard 20 gallon. I don’t use filter socks. Too much work. they filter out the copepods. you can use plexiglass for the baffles. Less than $20. I’d make 3 compartments. One for your skimmer one for your fuge and one for your return pump...

Fire fish should do ok. Chromis is iffy. They tend to pick each other off. The fox no way which is too bad cause they are beautiful. Are you leaving the iron range?

That would be great.

Like you said all in ones are pricy. I’m quite fond of the RedSea Reefers but way out of my price range. I’d go with the 75. It is a good starter size and not super expensive. figure out your ultimate goal, the kind of fish you want, coral or not, then start researching. I’d start with a...

High quality frozen food , a mixture of different ones meant for carnivores. Clams on the half shell, chopped up raw shrimp. i usually have 4 or 5 different frozen foods in the freezer that I feed on different days.

That is an outrageous amount of money for maintenance.

They need a more varied diet than that. I’m thinking aggression between the triggers. They don’t like other triggers.

You want to quarantine new fish for min 30 days before adding them. longer if they need treatment. If you already have a disease in the tank there isn’t much you can do except remove and treat them all. Then leave the tank fishless long enough for the parasites to die off (Typically 72 days)...

I’d get a hang on the back filter. They are cheap and don’t cause the issues canisters do. Canisters will cause all kinds of issues with nitrates which translates into algae. I‘d stick with FOWLR just because of the cost of lights for coral and anemones. you can always upgrade lights in the...

It is possible there is a disease in the tank If you haven’t been quarantining the fish. It could be inadequate nutrition, what are you feeding them? There is likely aggression going on. You tank is small for triggers and puffers, especially if you have multiples, that is a prime situation...