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Phosphates can help nuisance algae grow as well as cyanobacteria. It does not usually go down all by itself. Water changes, an algae scrubber, phosphate removing media are some ways to reduce phosphate.

All fish food will have Phosphates. Phosphate is a needed nutrient. The problem with flaked food is that the Phosphates often dissolve into the water faster than the fish can eat it. Let them get hungry if you want to switch foods. I mean HUNGRY.

Try Cyclop-Eeze or Mysis Shrimp. Better for the fish and better for the system. Flaked food is very nutritious. Unfortunately, a lot of the nutrition dissolves into the water before the fish can eat it.

Were they labeled "Protopalythoa"?

Good light, good current, Calcium & Alkalinity in good levels. The more you target feed them the faster they will reproduce.

I'm not discouraging you, B&W Ocellaris are a very good choice. I just find it interesting that a lot of us like saltwater fish for the vibrant colors. Then pay extra for a black & white morph of a beautifully colored species.

Do they have eggs?

Yeah, this is true. There are cases of Ocellaris/Maroon hybrids. Quite rare though. As a guess I think it was probably a male Maroon as I can't see a female maroon accepting an Ocellaris. Strange things do happen occasionally though.

Yeah, for a 75 I would go glass. Acrylic has better clarity and some insulation properties but in a 75 those advantages are minimal.

They will try to match their crown with the available food. If food is abundant they will go through the effort to support a very large crown. If food is sparse then they will toss the large crown and grow a smaller one. Of course, the smaller crown won't support a large body so the actual...

Absolutely. More than bully, she would eventually kill them.

You can drill anti-siphon holes in the return line depending on your configuration, that can help a lot. It is something you need to test a few times by manually shutting down the return pump. You don't want a true power outage to be the first test.

I considered budget and the place I was putting it. I wanted a 300 cube and settled for a 155 bowfront. 75 tall vs 75 long is a no-brainer. The limitation on fish for saltwater isn't water volume, it's space. A tall tank is better for animals that go up & down like seahorses. The long...

he he he ... LOL

Borax.

The budget is important for this. Not only for equipment but for Reef vs Fish tank. Reef tanks are generally at least double the cost of a fish only. I've never owned a cube tank but I am becoming a fan based on the tanks I see when I visit to help them out. The minimum cube for a new...

I said that all wrong, apologies. It really does work best if you never dose anything you don't already know the level of. If Calcium is low, dose it, if Alkalinity is low dose it. Blindly dosing an additive without testing is what causes most of the issues I hear about.

Congratulations Seth :cool:

It will resolve itself once your water parameters get in line. "i do not dose carbinate. i do dose calcium evory other week." In the typical saltwater system Carbonate and Calcium are consumed at about the same rate. If you are not dosing Carbonate then you should not be dosing Calcium.

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