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I recommend you include macro algae (protected in a refutium) then do the rest. The macro's will function like FW live plants to balance and stabilize operation and make it much easier to maintain. my .02

I just looked around and found a plastic storage container that would fit in half of my stand with the long dimension for and aft. that has the added advantage that it stuck out the back so the drain was a straight shot from the display. my .02

you're correct that the sponge will filter out the pods. Hopefully some eggs might get through. At anyrate the pump would probably chop them up anyway. I would just use a net and manually transfer them to the display my .02

These thoughts here are my thoughts and suggestions on setting up a sump system. Please add your thoughts and even discuss possible corrections or upgrades. LOL A sump system has the lowest container as the sump and a higher container(s). The water drains from the highest container through...

My thoughts in your other thread:. LOL

Back to the original question I've heard a minimum of 4 turnovers per hour like imforbis stated. To calculate that add up the volume of the display, refiugium, sump, and so on. Then look at the pump specs at the height the water is being pumped back up to the upper container. Don't use the max...

not familiar with that particular light but if it is blue and purple it will probably work. I do wonder if the 100w is actual watts or equivalent incandescent watts like with the fluorescent ratings.

The dirty little secret in the hobby is that none of those apply. LOL my .02

It looked like an egg crate with algae poking through. Which you'all that thought was ugly. LOL my.02

Basically yea. I used chaeto. and caulerpa profilera and grape caulerpa. (Hopefully I got the spellings close enough. LOL) Initially with top lighting not the back lighting the profilera did well. With the higher back lighting the grape took off. my .02

Sure

I just used an egg crate crammed in 3" in front of the back glass. And moved everything forward. And added two 2 tube fluorescent shop light behind the tank pointing forward. That formed an in tank refujgium when macros and post thrived. An the tangs really enjoyed grazing on the macro that...

IMHO you should start the system with macro algae (usually in a refugium). that way it's balanced and stabilized right from the start and much easier to maintain. But that's just me and my .02

IME mollies do best in saltwater. In FW mine got a white cotonny fungus. Which cleared up in hours by adding some aquarium fw salt treatment. my .02

me 2. I use Chinese leds.

One thing in this hobby is what is old is new again. Back in 2003 or so everything was deep sea beds (dsb). Then everything became more of a balance out the system with macro or other algae. Just like 20-30 years ago. So my advice is to not dismiss what you did so successfully for 10 years so...

first top off the tank. then do the water change.

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do I count?

if you don't have any macro algae like chaeto I would add some. Just partition the tank so that 3" from the glass you add an 1/4" plastic grid (eggcrate). put chaeto between the glass and eggcrate and it's best to add some side lighting. Once you get the chaeto thriving I think you'll find...