Search results

What I did with my old 55g was cram in some 1/4" square grid (egg crate sold as lighting diffuser at building supply stores) about 3" in front of the back glass. And of course moved the rocks decorations and so forward. I then added two two tube fluorescent shop lights bout 4" behind the tank...

for toping of a tank I would not add any conditioner and especially no ammonia locks like prime.

I would add a refugium (which can be just a simple in tank partition) with macro algae. Then kill the display lights and light up the macro algae in the refugium. The display algae will die off and the tank will be balanced and stabilized by the macro algae in the refugium. my .02

a canister filter is designed to pump and return whater where the intake and outlet are basically at the same height. In a sump system where you're pumping to a higher level, the gallons per hour pumped to the higher level are much reduced. Best to have pump designed for sump operation. my .02.

actually either or. I would make sure the refugium is full of macro algaes to create a much safer quiet cycle than the aerobic bacteria ammonia->nitrite->nitrate type cycle.

some even go with no sand or bare bottom. Glad you remembered.

welcome and just about anything. FWIW the DSBs of 13+ years ago have fallen out of favor. Today there is more dosing (vodka) plus more emphasis on balancing out the system with macro algaes. But that's just me and my .02

On my old 55g I used a plastic storage container for my sump. I placed it in my stand with the long dimension fore and aft. And surveyer's sticks to make the top of the bottom of the stand level. The back end stuck out of the stand where I could run my drain straight down from the tank. I...

looks like you have some good things there. Like a possible turtle grass.

Sorry not familiar with that particular tank. FWIW if you start the tank with live macro algae in a refugium which can just be a 1/4" square plastic grid partition, you may be able to save enough to afford a larger tank. with the macro thriving lotsa things like skimmers, filters, live rock...

one thing to consider is starting the tank with macro algae right from the start to balance out and stabilize operation. that said I'm not an aggressive tank expert so cannot recommend puffer or dwarf lion. Perhaps other can be more help my .02

Try balancing out the tank with macro algaes.

I would rather use a common FW molly. I agree the damsel is not a good choice.

If you start your tank with a refugium full of macro algae you could also not get the aerobic bacteria ammonia->nitrite->nitrate cycle. the macro algae will actually consume ammonia directly preventing those spikes. Then as the aerobic bacteria builds up, the macros will "switch" to consuming...

IMHO the best source is local hobbiests who may be tossing out a lot every month. I believe Saltwater fish has. some. try a google search for macro algae as well. In our refugium I use cheapie 30-50 (actual) watts led red/blue grow lamps. Last time I ordered a few years ago, about $20 or so...

you got a little algae. I would recommend macro alage like cheato in a refugium. And killing the lights to kill off the uglies. Once the refugium is in control the display will look much cleaner. and a clean up crew would help as well. my .02

I recommend you start your tank with a macro algae refugium then do the rest. That way you will start out the system balanced and stabilized by the algae. FWIW when cycling a tank common inexpensive mollies can be easily acclimated to saltwater. I just add one and not add food for a week...

although it is recommended to use aragonite sand, simple play sand from home depot has been used in many successful reef tanks. I presume local sand would do just as well. Especially if the tank is balanced out with a macro algae refugium. my .02

yep. several have

what an old thread. aquaweb went dark years ago