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And a previous aquarium I used a marineland powerhead with the "bubbler" to suck out the bubbles. Not only would it suck out the bubbles but after a power outage with water in both containers but no water in the u tube, is would suck and fill the u tube in 45 seconds and reestablish siphon.

it would be best to get it working again. Pumps usually fail by build up salt. Disassembling them and a vinegar soak usually helps.

yea it will look gross. LOL

before you do anything try killing the lights for a few days until the cyano dies off. then resume with less light duration and adjust. More if cyano does not return, less of it comes back. my .02

Whatever you do I recommend you simply start out the tank with macro algae and then do the rest. Macro algae will balance out the system, consume ammonia, nitrates (in that order), phosphates, co2 and return oxygen and fish food. Everything else IMHO is secondary. Skimmers, filters, live rock...

Absolutely correct!!!!!!!!! yet no adverse affects. No ammonia, no co2 build up etc,etc,etc. So fish thrive. Meanwhile the bacteria does build up even if slower. Just you don't have the ammonia->nitrite-> nitrate spikes is all. Still that's my .02

If you start the tank with lotsa macro algaes it is normal to have no ammonia nor nitrItes spikes. Because the macros will consume ammonia preventing those spikes. my .02

That's correct. Actually you would have to dose calcium, alk, and magnesium for reefs type tank. But essentially you have it correct. I go a little further than that in that no bacteria is actually needed. The macro algae will consume ammonia if present before nitrates. then, as bacteria...

almost correct. Nitrates can be reduced by plant life like macro and other algaes. They also consume co2 and return alk, oxygen, and fish food. my .02

Whatever you do I recommend you start with macro algae or an algae truf scrubber right from the start. A sump with a large refugium for the macros is one way. Another is just to partition the display so there is a small area for macros. my .02

I start my tanks with macro algae. It balanced out and stabilizes the system plus helps fight the ugly algae as well.

still using experimental unproven methods. LOL

me?

my only suggestion is to add some macro algae usually in a refugium which can be just a simple in tank partition. my .02

Actually under gravel filters although old school work just fine. I would not use chemicals to lower nitrate. I do recommend adding macro algae which consumes ammonia (if present) then nitrates plus phosphates and co2 while returning oxygen and fish food. You may have to partition the tank...

IMHO RO/DI water is only needed for a reef tank with delicate corals like sps types. Definitely not needed for fowlr tanks. my .02

supplements (dosing) are mainly for calcium, alk, and magnesium and usually only critical for hard corals and corraline algae. research the improved diy two part system. It is best tho to keep alk from 8 to 10 KDH using simple baking soda. FWIW I recommend starting aquariums with macro algaes...

.25 with the api kit can be a false reading and it's actually 0. I like cycling a tank with macro algaes. they consume ammonia directly plus co2 and eventually nitrates while returning oxygen and fish food. my .02

Although it could be stuff stirred up like in a sand storm, it most likely is suspended algae and cyano bacteria. Both of which will die off in darkness. So try lights out for a few days to a couple of weeks to see if it clears up. Then resume with 1/2 duration lighting and adjust to the...

three adjustments to a sump: 1) insure no floods with power out. (tank stops draining before sump floods) 2) normal operation resume when power comes back 3) (and the one I forgot) "fail" the drain (blockage or siphon loss for instance) and insure the display doesn't flood. (the sump should...