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.25 ammonia can be a false reading with the api test kits. add some macro algaes behind a partition will help. 10g for any normal sized fish can be small.

perhaps a micron filter sock or diatom filter would help.

do those things wiggle?

IMHO you can make a HOB overflow from $20 worth of pvc. It is just as reliable as a drilled tank. But any system with a sump does add complexity.

I would start the tank with macro algae which are algaes that kinda look like plants. And use a 1/4"sq plastic grid (egg crate) as a partition to separate the macros from the live stock. I would let if run for a week to get the macros established and conditioning the system. Then add 1 male...

From what I hear if you're gonna have delicate corals you need RO/DI. For fish and other inverts RO/DI is not needed. I would recommend you add macro algaes like chaeto in some kind of refugium. The refugium can be just a simple 1/4" sq plastic grid partition to separate the livestock from the...

I would recommend you start the tank (or add if already started) with macro algaes like chaeto in some kind of refugium. Then do the rest. The macro algae will balance out and stabilize the system making it much more forgiving of my type mistakes. For a sump/refugium, you might check out wall...

Whatever you do I highly recommend you start the tank with a refugium full of macro algae like chaeto. my .02

best thing along with the easiest and cheapest on my old 55g was do an in tank refugium. I just crammed in some 1/4" plastic grid (egg crate) (lighting diffuser for dropped ceilings 4'x2' section ~$12 or so) 3" in front of the back glass. And added 2 4' long 2 tube fluorescent shop lights...

I use the dsuny from ebay. two of their 2' fixtures fit very nicely over a 55g. my .02

sorry for late reply. I don't use nor recommend skimmers. IMHO the macro algae are the only filtration needed. If you are using quiet powerheads for circulation, you probably could just leave them on 24 hrs. A little trickling water noise can be soothing. LOL my .02

welcome to the marine side. To me it is best to start the tank with macro algaes protected by a refugium. The refugium can be just a simple 1/4" sq plastic grid as a partition. 3" from glass with macros between grid and glass. add some side light also. that way the system will be blanced...

ammonia detoxing chemicals work by detoxing the ammonia meaning the ammonia is still there but safer. Most test kits cannot tell the difference so you wind up adding chemicals, still testing ammonia and adding more chemicals. Additionally most of the detoxs also lock up oxygen so it is...

Technically no. There are few actual plants that live in saltwater. Plants with circulation systems, roots, leaves and so on. A macro algae is actually an algae that looks like plants. Chaetomorphia looks like a green brillo pad. that said the macro algae do essentially that same thing for...

I would add macro algaes to balance out and stabilize the system. Best behind a refugium which can be just some 1/4" plastic grid (egg crate) partition 2-3 inches from the side glass. Add some side lighting to help get the macros thriving. my .02

best get the api marine test kit but the FW test kits will work in salt as well. Ph should be the high range test kit as marine pH is over 8. I would start the tank with macro algae (like chaetomorphia) using a 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) as a partition. And add some side lighting to...

If the pump is seized I would take it apart and unseize it. LOL

IME the best thing to do is start the tank with macro algae in a refugium. That way the tank will be balanced and stabilized to make it forgiving of my type errors. LOL

good. Just let us know how it works.