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I would try to remove them. you can bait them in a pvc pipe or Tupperware container with some food. then remove them and clean that out frequently. They can be more than a simple clean up crew. the wrong type can feed off corals. google Oregon reef incident. my .02

In order to reduce nitrate you simply have to get the nitrate consumers keeping up with the nitrate producers. IMHO the best method is algaes like in an algae turf scrubber of by using macro algaes usually in some kind of refugium. The refugium can just simply be an tank partition to keep the...

IMHO the best thing you can do for any tank is to balanced it out with various plant life. In saltwater that is various algaes like macro algaes. On my old 55g for instance I just crammed in to plastic 1/4" square grid (egg crate) used for lighting diffusers in dropped ceilings. a 4 ftx2ft...

isn't 1.014 low salinity?

try feeding them with cyclopeeze. or cyclops or whatever it's now called after the original cyclopeeze stopped production.

If your KH is a little low, bring it up with baking soda will result in lower calcium

Oh yea. On lights my wife (and I) use dsuny (4 panels) over the 90g. They provide light edge to edge front to back and the corals seem to like. they are available on ebay and probably other sources and the 4 panel. each panel is 24"x~5". So a 4 panel system would cover a 4' 120 tank nicely...

I would go with the 120 assuming it's a 4' 120 not the 6' 125. Using the egg crate in tank refugium, the display area in front of the egg crate would be at least 90g or larger. Use some power heads on the corners to hold the egg crate off the glass. and some rocks at the bottom. If you have...

simple use 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) sold as lighting diffusers at building supply stores. About $12 for a 4footx2foot section. Partition the tank so you have an algae area ~3" from the back glass. add some shop lights horizontal to illuminate that area. The partition will protect...

Whatever you do I would start the system with macro algae then do the rest. Normally you have to have some kind of refugium to keep the livestock and algae separate, but that can just be something as simple as using egg crate partitioning the system into sepereate algae and livestock areas.

just to get things going and to test it out try a single male molly. Once that lives for a few weeks then try the more expensive saltwater only fish. and FWIW I highly recommend using macro algae like chaetomorphia in a refugium to balance out and stabilize the system. The refugium can just be...

I guess not many. LOL

If you have ever had planted FW tank, then you already know how easy they are to maintain because of the balanced and stable environment the plants provide. In saltwater tank the same exact thing applies for the same exact reasons. Only there are basically no actually plants with circulation...

If something has gone bump in the night resulting in ammonia, the macros will switch to ammonia for nitrogen and nitrates will rise. Perhaps you just have a temporary situations similar to a cycling tank. If that's the case as ammonia is reduced through either recovering from the bump or by...

IMHO you don't need and shouldn't use a skimmer or reactor with a refugium with macro algaes balancing out and stabilizing the system. If you already have a sump, a refugium could cost less than $30 also. my .02

RO/DI water is needed for corals because they can't stand ions like copper. But for a fish only tank tap water is fine IMHO and worth about .02 LOL

I recommend you look into macro algaes (in a protected space called a refugium) to balance out and stabilize the system. It will also help prevent nuisance algae like the bubble algae.

Back in college days ('60's) we used to say we couldn't help our parents relations. LOL

For a drain I would use a over the top pvc overflow. my .02

how I "fixed" it. LOL long read but funny well at least to me anyway