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Your question is very similar to my questions when I started a saltwater tank back in 2003. I had maintained FW planted tanks for years there were literally nothing but substrate, water, fish, and tank. But there was no one around who told me about the marine equivalent. The equivalent is...

I recommend you start the tank with macro algaes. Then do the rest. Best in a refugium which can just be a simple partition to keep the fish and algae separate. my .02

One way is to cram on a 1/4 plastic square "egg crate" about 3" in front of the back glass. then add a couple of 2 tube 4 foot utility lights pointing forward to light up that area. The back 3" then forms a refugium to grow macro algae and pods in. Then you can use common river or limestone...

cool

Some kits measure nitrate nitrogen (nitrogen part only) and others total nitrates (the total nitrate molecule). the conversion is ~ 4.43 between the two. So 10ppm in one it 44ppm in the other. The api kit is fine for detecting when nitrates finally drop to unmeasureable (below 5ppm) but hard...

10g is kinda small especially for a first saltwater tank. Whatever you do I highly recommend you start the tank with macro algaes (usually protected from the fish in a refugium) then do the rest. that way the tank will be balanced and stable making it much easier to maintain and forgiving of...

It would make a good refugium for a 20g tank tho. I recommend you start the tank with macro algae then do the rest. Psst you could try a common molly to see if the tank is ready. my .02

Actually live rock and live sand are not needed. IMHO. I would start the system with macro algae in a refugium (can be just s simple in tank partition to keep the macros and livestock separated). Then do the rest. The algae will preform the functions of live rock and sand, stabilize the...

the ammo dot does read the dangerous ammonia but the api kit cannot tell the difference between lock and dangerous. You might try some macro algae like chaeto to consume the ammonia directly. You need to balance out the tank wither through aerobic bacteria build up or by adding macro algaes...

stop adding food. NitrItes should drop in a couple of days.

http://www.oregonreef.com/sub_worm.htm

look up the improved diy two part system by dr randy holmes Farley. it uses calcium chloride for calcium, baking soda for alk and magnesium chloride +magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) for magnesium. calcium chloride and magnesium chloride is sold as an ice melter for sidewalks in winter. calcium...

+1 to brs two part. It is a commercial version of dr randy holmes-farley's improved diy two part. search that.

I would first plan for a macro algae refugium. Which can just be a 1/4 plastic grid (egg crate) partition a few inches off the back glass. And add some 4' 2 tube cheapie 6500k ship lights behind the tank pointing forward to light up that area. then use macro algae like chaeto between the...

you just need to start some harvesting. Like 1/4 to 1/2 every week or so. then let it expand back to the original volume. Parameters will not change all that much as with less macro, the macros will grow faster and therefore consume more nutrients per mass. Just be sure to keep the macro...

I would add some macro algae in a refugium and let things settle down for a week or so. Then add a single male FW molly to cycle the tank. Don't add food for a week then start feeding 1 flake per day. After that you should be able to safely add marine only fish. The refugium is just a...

I crammed on 1/4 sq plastic grid (egg crate) about 3" in front of the back glass on my old 55g. Then added 2 4' 2 tube shop lights behind the tank pointing forward. This formed a lit refugium where macro and pods thrived. nitrates dropped to unmeasureable in 3 weeks and phosphates a few month...

I would start the tank with macro algae then do the rest. In a refugium for sure but that can even be just an in tank partition (I used egg crate) to separate the macros from the livestock. the macros will consume ammonia first the nitrates for nitrogen, while consuming co2 and returning...

I hear the molly miller blenny will eat those, cyano, and nuisance algaes as well. plus all types of other foods so it won't starve after cleanup. my .02

+1 You might look up the improved diy 2 part system.