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What are you keeping? There s no single ideal temp. Typically you need to see where on Earth your animals thrive best and then maintain a temperature they all can thrive in.

It may have been enough. Now that most of that ammonia is gone try something more steady like ghost feeding. Feed the amount of fish food that you plan to feed your first fish. If ammonia doesn't start to climb after a week of that then the tank has a good cycle.

What are you using as your source of ammonia for the cycle?

I've had excellent luck with Green Hairy Mushrooms and Frogspawn.

Do you notice any antenna on its head? Does it have five antenna?

no

I see what looks to be some type of sponge as well as something resembling half of a Turkey Wing Clam. Not really sure what I'm looking at though.. The "baby shrimp" sound a lot like Gammarus Amphipods.

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Not only if it covers them. Most macroalgae have holdfasts they use to cling to rocks.. These can dig right through coral flesh and cause all kinds of problems from infection to growth damage, etc. Macro algae can look nice in a reef tank but it must be well maintained.

They are only considered expert because they require hair/Bryopsis algae to survive. If you only have algae on the glass then I take it back, not a good fit. Algae scrapers do work well though. Just keep them clean and don't get any grit between the pad and the glass.

Maintaining an ammonia level between 0.25 and 0.50 ppm will speed up a cycle, not slow it down. Remove any dead sponges or visibly dying macro algae. You don't want a lot of macro algae in the tank during a cycle but a small amount is OK if you want to keep macro algae in the display tank.

The main diet of a Lawnmower Blenny is diatoms. They will often eat algae sheets as well but rarely will they want hair algae. Sea Hares will eat many types of hair algae.

Test their water yourself. Them telling you the Salinity is 1.023 is fairly meaningless since that's not a salinity reading. If the difference in salinity between your tank and their tanks is significant then a shrimp will need a lot longer to acclimate.

Found an old picture I took of one of those snails eating one of my Keyhole Limpets.

I would only be concerned with Ammonia. I recommend doing enough water changes to keep ammonia below 0.5ppm but still have at least a trace or around 0.25ppm. If you keep saltwater ready and just do a 10% whenever ammonia tests higher than 0.5ppm it will work out best in my experience. The...

The snail is a Buccinid Whelk. It is a predator but it will also eat carrion. If it were me I would remove it.

The 10 gallon:

I've had a 10 gallon where I was pleased with the 'scape. Other than that the smallest was a 55 which I was definitely NOT happy with the 'scape. 29 is a tough one.

Colonial Tunicate.

My guess would be Spirorbidae Worms.