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If you know that already in advance why not lower the salinity of your QT to get closer to your LFS? Then you have plenty of time to let salinity rise before adding it to the DT. Generally speaking, fish handle a rising salinity just fine. Not so true for the opposite but they can handle a...

Very healthy in my opinion. We're only discussing system startup for reef tanks.

Beaslbob's fish only tanks do fine. His reef tank crashed about once a year until he finally gave up. His corals never thrived based on the pictures he posted in the past. His reef system is the perfect evidence that starting with macro algae is a bad idea. If you want a reef tank that has a...

If you're talking about a new reef tank I would strongly recommend against starting it with macro algae. Very useful later once the system is stable and has excess phosphate but for startup it is very detrimental for a reef.

I see no mention of the alkalinity level.

There are a lot of debates concerning acclimating fish. All ways are probably valid and have their advantages & disadvantages. If there is a guarantee on a fish then that usually comes with a specific acclimation procedure attached whish should be followed. For shipped fish ammonia is a big...

Mostly frozen seafood that's on sale. Scallops, Salmon, Cod, Squid, stuff like that. I stayed away from farmed seafood but that's just me.

Looks to me like Montipora sp. but it needs to grow out a bit before making an ID.

The do not require iodine to molt. That's a myth that has been disproven time and time again. The myth started because crustaceans will molt when excess iodine is present. It's their way to attempt to remove the toxin from their body. It will force a molt which is not healthy for the animal.

That's a land crab. Not the same animal. The amount of Calcium in the exoskeleton can be loosely estimated by the rigidity of the exoskeleton. Something like a lobster that has almost no flexibility will be high in Calcium, something like a Cleaner Shrimp that has almost no rigidity will be...

For my 155 reef I had a 900 gallon refugium and a 30 gallon sump. Would have been better with a larger refugium and a smaller sump.

I had a similar one a while back for a 10 gallon. It doubled as an ATO. I had a build-in sump in the corner of the tank. As the water level in the corner sump dropped water would transfer via the airline tubing from the black container. The black container held Calcium hydroxide. As the...

It's going to require a week or two to adapt to a new environment. My suggestion would be to put it where it's going to go and leave it there.

I'm not so sure spectrum plays as big a role as light manufacturers would have you believe. I've grown healthy corals under a really wide range of color spectrums and wavelengths. In my experience the most important factor has been PAR. As an example of range, I've experimented with UVA which...

Moderate to strong chaotic current. Moderate to intense lighting.

+1

Pulling from what I've experienced, Carbonate Alkalinity stability depends on PH, Temperature, Calcium, Magnesium, Salinity, and Alkalinity levels. It's going to be difficult to get precise with that many variables. A PH of 8.4 and your high Calcium level is probably enough to put Alk in the...

Raising Salinity is a separate issue from your Alkalinity maintenance. To raise Salinity, I agree, just use saltwater for topoff for a day or two. It really shouldn't be a long term issue. We need to tackle things one item at a time. The item my suggestions target is Alkalinity stability. I...

How did you test your salinity? You actually gave me a really high specific gravity reading which I will assume is a typo. I'll assume your water reads S.G. of 1.025. Is that right? Here is my suggestion: 1 - Instead of using only soda ash, mix it with baking soda. 1/3 baking soda 2/3rds...

On other off the wall question - can you describe how you dose your tank for me. I need excruciating detail.