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It would work fine. Id suggest getting a SCWD and using 2 nozzles instead of 4. Keep the spray bar high for surface agitation.

hit me up with an email jasenhicks@hotmail.com, i can hook you up.

You will probably want to use a piece of ABS plastic. Thats what they are made out of for AGA, etc. To bend it all you need is a small benzoate torch. Heat it up, and its plyable.. cool it down its stiff.

You can do a fuge on anything, thats my opinion. You just need to have a tank.sump.rubbermaid container, somthing under the tank (or above) to let water slowly flow to, and then have it get back to the display tank. A fuge is essentially another filtration type.. biological. I have one and it...

I bet its made by JEBO or some other no so good company. I have one of those fixutres, and im about to replace the 10K with some more actinic and get 2 175W metal halides for my 75. They arent that great, just a suggestion. I found some good mh retrofits that are very resonalby priced. Email me...

Clown, i have info for the metal halides if you want it. COntact me at jasenhicks@hotmail.com for more info. Id have emailed you direct except it said u blocked emails.

I have come across some excellent metal halide retrofit kits that i think many people would be interested in, all new ready to install. Im curious if there is anyone that would be interested. Here are the details: 175W 10,000K Metal Halide Bulb, Electronic Ballast, and mogul socket: $160 250W...

I noticed these in a marine aquaria mag today... $75 metal halide retrofits... . Any opinions? Id go with the upgraded 12K bulbs, 2 175W for my 75. Email me for the link, jasenhicks@hotmail.com

I'd go with 4 10K's and 2 actinic. That way you have a lot of bright lights for coral needs, and you still get the blues needed too. Id even say to make it so the blues come on about 30min to an hour before the 10K's and off 30min to an hour after the 10K's Jasen

Bvhbum... i live in chesapeake... i can come get it. How much do you charge total? Id need it 40" long, 10" wide and 16" tall.

I just saw a 3 lamp timer for sale at the local Home Improvent store. Independiently controls 3 lamps (or any other device) and it was under $25. Email me at jasenhicks@hotmail.com if you want more info.

Lol, hey Al... i sent you a reply to the email you sent me. I think i have posted a few replies or at least read some stuff you've posted... guess i have to be spot on with my responses now that someone actually has met me here, and can check up on me!

Yeah, that would work perfectly. Thats what i did in mine, minus the live sand part. I did a layer of crushed coral, and then a layer of agronite sand above a plenum. The agronite sand and or crushed coral will be good in the fuge as well, promotes worms etc to grow and thrive.

I would keep it seperate... this way there is no comingling between the possible diseased QT tank and the display tank. If you ever do need to QT a fish, once HE's cured, all the stuff in the QT should be considered contaminated and shouldnt be allowed anywhere close to the display to prevent...

I would model it after this.... http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/f/sump_f.html T the drain from your 75, and put 2 ball valves on each side, control flow to the opposite sides of the sump/fuge/... more flow to the left with the skimmer, less to the right for the fuge. The baffle walls...

The DI water will actually dehydrate you. It will pull the ions from your system and cause you to expel them (i.e. pee them out). I wouldn't ever drink it to be honset with you... i did taste it once though, but not in mass quantities. We esentially use DI water for drinking water on submarines...

im interested... i like piping... jasenhicks@hotmail.com

Ive been drinking city water my entire life, with no ill effects... the fish havent. I buy into the George Carlin bit on why kids are always getting sick, because they dont get exposed to germs anymore.

Maybe some pictures might help. I cant visuallize the setup, so i cant give you a definate answer. If the ventruri is installed backwards then it could cause it, but if its installed permanetley then, its probably right.

The venturi should be on the outlet of the pump, and it sucks in air as the water rushes past the small airline hole. It creates a "vacuum" at that hole, and sucks the air in, where it mixes with the water. Try bringing the pump shallow in your tank, and plugging it in. Make sure the airline...