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Yeah, but its so easy. If you go to petsmart or somwhere and just look at how one is made, you'll be money. You always have the option of haning it from the ceiling with some chain and hooks in the ceiling (in studs obviously) that way its suspended above the tank and theres no need for a lid...

all plastic is the way to go really, Stainless although it says stainless is suseptible to cloride stress corrosion cracking, whih requires saltwater to occur... guess whats in your tank! It also corrodes in SW. go for an all plastic if you can,.... i think FLOATSWITCHdotCOM is a good choice.

if you are gonna get some decent lighting, build a decent hook and get a retrofit kit for it. That way you can make it fit your tank. I think 96W PCs should be good for that, one 10000K, and one actinic. Plus if you get a retrofit, it can be removed and mounted in a different hood if you make...

You need to lower the drain tube further into the sump then, thats the only way. You will get some air into the first chamber, its just going to happen based on the way the gravity drain works.

IF its foaming that much, then great... its getting all the crap out! But you can always adust the VENTURI to limit the amount of skimming it gets done... i would reccommend adjusting it so that it will skim a little bit while you are gone, and then a lot while you are home until it gets most of...

How do u have the baffles set up? Are there 3 between each chamber? If not thats the first problem. The pipes coming in should be below the water line, and you will get some air into the drain line from the display tank beacuse its not a solid column of water.

IF you get hallides you may need a chiller if u keep the tops on, or a good ro/di unit that helps keep level in your sump level due to evaporation.... if you go hallides it will cause some sort of headache somewhere, but will be good in long run due to good lighting.

I was looking in my tank today and realized my only 2 sets of polyps were looking down and in the dumps so i checked my levels and everything was at 0 as it should be. SO i started thinking that somthing wasnt right, and sure enough my skimmer was not working right... i.e. no bubbles flowing to...

It would most likely crack and cause glass shards to fall into the tank. If you want an experiment, take a glass out of the dishwasher right as it stops, put it in your sink under the faucent and fill it with cold water.... then imagine that over your tank! Id reccomend at least a glass top, on...

With that much Live Rock, and a skimmer if its estabilished, dont get another filter. Id say if anything invest in a HUGE skimmer. Let biology do all of the work. Realistically, if you have Live Rock, all the Ammonia will be converted to nitrite and then nitrate. With a good skimmer dissolved...

the brighter the color clam, the more light thats required. So.. if he starts to loose color, or close up... then lights arent bright enough, or you arent feeding him correctly... make sure you keep chemistry and food a constant and let the light be the guide.... if hes ok after a month, then...

Skimmmers usually sit in the sump, and chillers can be taken from anywhere in the system.... remember all the water is really connected, you chill it here and it will eventually get there....

I should have thought of this too... for the sump fuge, GARFdotORG has a great DIY fishtank you can build out of plywood.... make the fuge out of that! Save some serious cash and you can make it as big as possible.... plus you really dont need to look IN the fuge from the front, just the top...

For pipe size, i would go with as big down as you can, and an inch or inch and a half up... it would really depend on the pump you picked, i.e. just go with the outlet size of the pump that will usually "do the trick" as they say.

It indeed can be done with one pump, but it probably is more cost efective to do a 2 pump system. At some point pumps just get way too expensive and scarce. I was going to add that i would mount the sump/fuge about 2 ft off the ground on a "stand" with a drain pipe to an external IWAKI pump or a...

Well folks, i have an answer and schematic for everyone. Well I think i do. I applied my Nuclear Power/Engineering Background to the problem and came up with a way for everyone to do this, and make water changes/automatic level simple. Here is the schematic: First thing is to get the water to...

You most certainly too can have two pumps inline with eachother! One has to be a smaller pump with lower pressure first, and a higher output one second. That is how you move water a long distance! This is where a good engineering background comes into play. You can, if needed have 2 pumps...

384W is a good amount of light, and should work fine. I may have misread when i saw only 2 lights. I would try an inexpensive clam at the bottom of your tank for a month or so after cycling to see if it does ok, if it does then pretty much anything else would be good to go. Clams like a lot of...

The water level in the tank will be at the level of the drain, no way around it really just plain physics. The sump/refugium will be the same container, and the pump will be in the sump returning water to the tank. You only need one pump. If your tank is not drilled you will need an overflow box...

Depending on the wattage of your P/C lights, you will need bright lights for that tank, esp for anenome and corals. You will probably want to go to a Metal Halide setup and use the P/C for actinic bulbs.