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My first reaction to the negative responses here is that I'm glad I live here in Bend and you live far away. Please stay in NJ & CT. I really don't see this as being a big deal. I don't feel threatened by this, I don't care about their motives. Most importantly it doesn't move me to wish harm...

I believe they do.

I have a 150 HQI over my 10 gal. nano in my office. The bulb is 8" over the surface of the water. There are three fans. No heat problems.

I have a pink spotted goby with a pistol shrimp. They're fun to watch together.

It depends on the play sand. In some parts of the country play sand is calcium carbonate based. Out West we can only get silica based sand at Lowes & Home depot. The calcium based sand, after a rinse, will work fine. I don't believe that I would use the silica type sand. It does take a while for...

You can try, it won't hurt.

It's fine. This type is pretty safe. It's very invasive & you don't want it in your display tank but it doesn't do the reproductive thing as often as grape & a few of the others. Keep it trimmed & growing and it will do well for you. If you noitice it turning white take that part out. As far as...

It can grow to the point that there's no more room for it to grow. I don't think it can hurt the system but keep in mind that the whole point in having it is for nutrient export. Unless your macro is able to grow it doesn't use up excess nutrients.

It looks like razor caulerpa to me. Other than cheato it's my preferred macro. You can trim it at any time.

Most of the liquid inside is hydrogen peroxide. You should call your vet to be sure there's not something you should do.

Like almost everything in this hobby the answer to your question is "it depends." You indicated that you need a 10 degree pull down. Is that 10 degrees below ambient room temperature, or is that 10 degrees down from the maximum high temp. with all heat sources in place? An Iceprobe is a...

I don't think it's a sundial either. You can pick it up & check it's front door, or whatever it's called. It's fairly distinctive on a sundial. In Ophuira's photo (see Viper's reply) you can visualize it fairly well.

Run a piece of airline through the J tube from the tank side up to the top of the bend. Suck the air out & the siphon should start.

Here's the thread I was talking about: https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...ghlight=change

There's an old thread around here somewhere titled something like "how many reef keepers does it take to change a light bulb"? That thread explains a lot.

Yes, basicaly what you said. The more hours the tubes have on them the more the spectrum shifts. I change my bulbs once per year, probably a month or so too long. It goes by hours burned, not time so if you burn your lights 12 hours per day they will need to be replaced before a set that is...

Thomas, I had one that looked like that doing what Spartan described. What is it?

The first one: a trash 80 that uses a tv for a monitor. I think it's got 8kb memory. Still have it in a box in the garage. First usable 'puter: trash 1000 286, CGA, 20meg hard card, 1 ea. 3.5" & 5.25. $2400 in 1984'ish dollars.

I've not heard anything about gorilla glue. Most epoxys are OK.

In their natural environment, sealife is not exposed to unfiltered UV. Leave the glass in place. If you need more light go bigger not barer (barer?). This is just my opinion. As one of the old timers used to say here; Your tank, Your choice. (I wish I could remember who used to have that in...