Search results

I'll be moving my 130gal. from 1st floor to my basement. The process will take a bit of time .(Lots of equipment) My question is , how much damage will occur to my LS and LR. and Caulerpa with no light and circulation for say 2-3 days? My fish wiil be in a smaller tank setup prior to the move.

It doesnt say 03 anywhere , just 460 nano. Blue . I read the thread from Kip, I just dont know if I should change bulbs because they dont have a purple glow. Is there another bulb I should try and where can I get it from??

I using (2) 55 watt Custom Sea Life Actinics which give off a Blue light hoping to grow more coralline, they are 420 nanometer rating. Now I find out they should be giving off a purple light for optimum coralline growth. Can someone shed some "Light" as to what bulb I should be using >>>

i'm trying to collect different macros for my fuge . Right now all i have is feather caulerpa. Lookin gfor grape or others, even mangroves would do . LFS around here(Philadelphia) dont carry any. Price not a concern

What would be the ideal way of installing an auto top-off system? A typhoon 3 RO/DI is on the way , so I need some ideas on how to use this system with the top -off . Maybe Bang Guy or Kip you could shed some light on this for me.

Is there any way to revive Mushrooms and yellow polyps from LR that was once thriving

Could someone tell me if this is ok. I dont have an auto. top off system (yet) I top off with 5 Gal. Jugs of R/O water from the Glacier machine. The only thing I add to it before it goes in the sump is 8.2 Proper PH @ 76 Degrees. Am I missing something????????????? Thanks

My overflow box(from Amiracle 250) wont keep up with my mag drive(1800gph) I have to throttle back on the ball valve which cuts down on my overall tank turnover and water movement. I tried adding another syphon tube to the overflow but it looses its syphon from time to time . What can i do??

Vitals as of this morning Temp- 76 PH- 8.2 NH3- 0 Nitrates- 0 PO4- 0 Salinity- 1.0245 Calcium- 400 Here is the confussion, the test reads 11dKH(11 drops added) the other test i used was a quick dip test which reads 300ppm KH. In your opinion, what water parameters are need to keep say ...

Thanks for the info, I'll try it. How long till my tank gets up to 1300 ppm.? Why the epsom salts???

Could someone tell me what the envelope sign means inthe first column of my posts, mine is different then most everybody else. thanks

A little confused on the 2 . What are the parameters need to keep sa Zoanathids (shrooms and polyps etc..) I had a rock full of Yellow Polyps , they disappeared about a month ago . What to do???

I dont drip kalk only because every time i test for calcium its the same (about 400ppm). No additives either since its a fish only tank right now. Water changes maybe every other month, I have a light bio-load. I would like to be able to keep Zoanthids they are super cool. I have kalkwasser( not...

The tank is 3 years old, over that time ive add rock with Coralline , polyps and mushrooms only to see them disappear. Can i get the polyps back ??? About half the musrooms and coralline ar estill present.

Cant figure why coraline is NOT spreading through the tank not even on the glass. Vitals; As of this morning 130gal. 20gal. fuge 20 gal. sump 2- 175 watt MH 2- 55 watt PC (Blue 03) 100# LR 125# LS Temp- 76F Salinity- 1.0245 Calcium- 400 Alk- 11dKH PH- 8.2 NH3- 0 NO3- <20 PO4- 0 Any Ideas???????

Checked-out your site, get my email??

Thanks for the info. Whats the best way to get those levels balanced?????????

My cal is around 400. my alk im not sure. I have 2- 175 wt. M.H.and 2- 55 watt P.C. acintics . M.h. @4hours - P.C@ 8 hours. How does alkalinity affect coralline growth ?

I cant seem to get any purple/ pink coralline to grow in my tank. I do have some green . the tank has been set-up for over 3 years now with ample live rock / sand. Whats the Deal???? Anybody???????