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I use Coralife and Red Sea salt. What I don't understand is why the daily additions of Pro Buffer and Turbo Calc were not raising anything, even while dosing kalk everynight. pH is tested with Pin Point, other kits are Salifert and La Motte. :confused: :confused:

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Reviving this thread. How can one tell if calcium is precipitating out? Does it form a white "snow," just bond to the sand bed, or what? I am also having trouble getting calc , alk and pH up. Have been dripping kalk but pH has been below 8.00 am and pm, calc down at about 270 and alk is low...

Too late to talk about hospital tanks but this sounds like one of the best bad experiences that should convince everyone to have that extra tank ready. Sorry you and others learn this sad truth this way. It sounds like your live rock may be mostly dead and polluting the tank rather than helping...

First work on your self esteem. (Why "stupid" naso?) Answers to your questions: 1. Yes 2. Yes 3. Yes, yes 4. You can clean it but don't add a clean up crew until ammonia and nitrites are zero and nitrates are gone or minimal.

Ditto on take the UGF out. If you leave it in you need to pump water through it at all times or else the bacteria dies and your bilogical filter is gone - hello ammonia!

Prinny - STOP WHERE YOU ARE. If you have not done so, order a copy of The Contientious Marine Aquarist by Fenner or get Moes' book and read at least one of them cover to cover. You mentioned that you "have the filters in" - are you refering to undergravel filters (aka UGF)? If so, take them out...

Not sure if your cannister or any of your powerheads have the capacity to serve as your return pump but you might look at them.

BB - we went with dead rock as a foundation, surrounded it with Aragonite dead sand and then live sand and then placed the live rock on top of the base rock. No sense paying the big bucks for rock that is under the sand. I would not scrimp on the live rock. It is awesome and really speeds...

Tara - I think you can but you will need to rewire to match the four lamp configuration. You might want to read Sandy Cohen's article in latest FAMA on affordable flourescent lighting and send him an email about mixing bulbs.

Ammonia spike may have come from the dieing corals. Also, no mention of lighting. What do you have?

We have a Remora and Remora Pro - good units but upgrade the pump.

Spuds - It is not real clear what it is you are wanting to do. Are you planning to use the 35g as a sump and the Fluval for mechanical filter plus pump your return water?

The total gallons is not significantly different between the two you are considering. Remember that that corals depend onlight and the deeper the tank, the less light gets to the bottom. (You can always try to keep the corals near the top to compensate.) The other factor is total surface area...

15 amps should be plenty. Also, go check your circuit breaker box and see what size breaker feeds the line in which you will be placing the GFI. Don't use a GFI with a higher rating.

Van - you are right. If all fans are pushing in they will never produce as much flow (which is what removes the heat) as your push-pull setup. (Theoretical thermodynamically speaking, push-push will produce more heat because it will raise the air pressure in the hood.)

Thanks Fixit - I am planning on using the Fluval with just the sponge and floss to catch crud that the skimmer doesn't suck up. We have the nitrate problem right now due to UGF and that is what we want to get away from. On the light fixtures I mentioned, any recommendations/preferences? Thanks!

I have the Remora Pro and it works great. Go wtih the Mag 3 pump, I replaced the original RIO twice in six months before going with the Mag. I also have a pre-skimmer/bubble trap for the Mag 3 setup I'd sell. Sharks - can we "do a deal" without breaking the rules?

I know, this question has no correct answer but I would like some recommendations. Have a 70 gallon tank coming. It will be FOWLR with deep live sand bed (@4")and a REmora Pro skimmer. What kind of lights would be appropriate for this? I am looking at the 35" JBJ Formosa with 4X36 Watt bulbs...

You don't need to submit cards to validate a warranty. You should also have proof of your purchase through your check or charge slip. If you bought from LFS they should help you with a substitute receipt. Actually, they should handle the problem for you. I don't know how you get a shallow...