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Anyone ever use CaribSea's Instant Aquarium sand for a reef tank? I had ordered Arag Alive but received this which while for fresh water systems claims to be safe for marine systems. Will I have any issues using this instead of the Arag alive? Any one previously use this? Thanks

running a 22 gallon sump and about 100 lbs of live rock, currently no protein skimmer but have one that can be hooked up if I decide it is needed

How many damsels can go in a 90 gallon tank?

Drill a small hole in the top of the stockman to let air in and it should take care of it. Mine only does this when the hole clogs .with salt at which time I clean it out with a toothpick.

For 4 days I usually only have the water topped up if going for longer than I leave food in baggies. As for topping up the water I leave a bucket with a heater in it and have marked high and low water points on my sump. When ever they come scoop water from the heated bucket into the sump until...

The have a tendency to jump out of the tank if there is no cover on it particularly if another fish is chasing them.

I have one and have had it for a couple years now. The pink bar goby is a very neat fish with a good community personality. So fine mine has had no issues but I have heard from many other people that they tend to be carpet surfers.

Agree with the above but once you get a healthy specimen they seem quite hardy.

Tank size? Tank mates?

Remove the drip plate and replace it with a fine bag or old stocking to filter the gunk out of the water column but that would need to be cleaned regularly. Altternatively remove the drip plate and don't worry about the filtering the water letting the skimmer remove the junk from hte ater.

Levels? What levels, the corals look fine, must be alright. I used to test my levels all the time but since getting a calc reactor about two years ago, I only test if something doesn't look right.

Would need to know a lot more about your set-up before advising. What filtration? Live rock? Live sand?

If the LR and LS were established already then you are done and can start slowly. When I went from my 90 to 120 I never saw any cycle and simply transfered the contents of my 90 which was full established to the 120 and added some additional established rock and was all set. No cycle no losses.

I run an Aqua-c EV-180 in my sump on my 90. It seems to do a better job than the euroreef I am running on my 120 but that is probably because the bioload in the 90 FOWLR is higher than in the 120 Reef.

I have used both over the years. They claim that Reef Crystals has higher levels of calcium in it than IO but I can't say that I really noticed any difference between the two. Having said that I never mixed a bucket of each and tested the levels to confirm this statement either.

Almost certainly the hawk. Had a red-hawk that was fine with my cleaner for about 9 months than all the sudden he started having expensive meals. Traded him back to the LFS.

Should be fine.

I use a corallin C1502 as well. The only issue I seem to have is that even with a feeder pump it seems to become airbound on occasion.

I had run a wet dry on my reef but once I had enough rock I just removed the bio-balls and ran it as a sump instead. I have heard that the bioballs can end become nitrate factories is one of the reasons why people don't like WD filters on reefs. I never had a problem with that but can see how...

I use a magnavore daily and a wallpaper stripper when it gets really bad and to remove the coraline.