125 Gallon + Football Sized Puffer

1fast300z

1fast300z

Member
Hello to all,
I got into the Saltwater Hobby about a year ago. I had a 55 gallon FOWLR aquarium running but recently lost both fish that were in it due to ich some how getting introduced and bacteria infections. I just purchased a 125 gallon aqaurium and do not wish to make the same mistake. My main concern is doing proper quarentines on my fish I introduce. The 125 is still empty with no water. My first question is should I add bags of live sand for the two week cycle ? I read you should not have a substrate with the quarentine tank.. however I am concerned that the Puffer Fish I am getting is to large to put in anything less than a 125 for the month period of the quarentine process (which is why I was wondering if I should just add him straight to my display tank..) Next how much live rock should I plan on purchasing to help cycle the aquarium and would placing it in the wet/dry filter be a good idea? Any other feedback you guys/girls can give me on how to properly get this thing running and not let it crash would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Peter
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
no sand in qt tank it will only create nitrates and u want it to be a simple tank that is easy to maintain. that is a tough situation because stressing the sh$% out of the fish in a small qt tank is not ideal i dont have experience with puffers but a 55 or 40 or 50 breeder might not be to bad. As for cycleing your display add all of ur sand and rock at the same time if u can otherwise u could go through another cycle if u add rock later because of the die off.
 
lion_crazz

lion_crazz

Active Member
Personally, I think a football sized puffer needs a much bigger tank than a 125. I would recommend quarantining him, but you would also need a rather large quarantine tank. That is the dilemma. You have to make the call on that one.
You do not want sand in your QT because it is harder to clean, plus, live sand dies in hyposalinity, and will cause an ammonia spike.
I would cycle the display tank with live rock and a cocktail shrimp. I also want to let you know that it is going to take longer than 2 weeks to cycle the display tank/QT however. You are looking at at least 3 weeks, and as long as 6 weeks.
 
1fast300z

1fast300z

Member
Thank you for the input everyone.
Would it be a good idea use a sponge out of a filter from a freshwater aquarium and squeeze it into the water of the 125 gallon to help get bacteria introduced? I read the link about how to cycle an aquarium without using fish. The sponge would be coming from a 10 gallon aquarium that has housed a water frog for 16 years.. so I am pretty sure its disease free. Also are you guys 100 percent sure on just doing the quarantine in the display tank? It sounds like a pretty good idea if there is no live rock or sand present.. but doesn't the Puffer need Live rock to stay healthy? I guess 30 days in the aquarium without it would be ok.. Also if he does have ich present should daily water changes be done or should freshwater dips just be performed? I intend on having the salinity very low to help kill off anything that may be on him. Last question.. do any of you know of a certain popular brand of ammonia to look for at a local store?
thanks again everyone! keep the replies coming anything you know will be a great help to me I am sure!
 
lion_crazz

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by 1fast300z
Would it be a good idea use a sponge out of a filter from a freshwater aquarium and squeeze it into the water of the 125 gallon to help get bacteria introduced?
No, this bacteria would die in saltwater, just as saltwater bacteria dies in freshwater.
I read the link about how to cycle an aquarium without using fish.
Yep, all you need is fish food or a cocktail shrimp to begin to decay.
Also are you guys 100 percent sure on just doing the quarantine in the display tank? It sounds like a pretty good idea if there is no live rock or sand present.. but doesn't the Puffer need Live rock to stay healthy? I guess 30 days in the aquarium without it would be ok..
Setting up the tank without live rock initially and quaranting him in the display would probably be your best bet. After the 4 week quarantine, I would begin to load the wet/dry with cured live rock, as well as put some in the display to help keep your levels stable and aquarium healthy.
Also if he does have ich present should daily water changes be done or should freshwater dips just be performed?
If the puffer has ich, you will need to perform hyposalinity. This is when you drop the salinity to 1.009 for 3 weeks to stop the reproduction of ich. You may need to do frequent water changes during the process, but it woud not be to kill the ich. Also, NEVER do a freshwater dip to a saltwater animal. It is more harmful than it is helpful.
I intend on having the salinity very low to help kill off anything that may be on him.
There is really no point in this. You might as well have the specific gravity at 1.025 because keeping it lower will not really do anything. In order to kill ich, you need to have the specific gravity at 1.009. You cannnot keep it at 1.009 long term though, because this is too low for the fish to survive in. The longest he could possibly live in this is about 2 months.
Last question.. do any of you know of a certain popular brand of ammonia to look for at a local store?
I am not sure what you are asking here. If you are asking for popular brands of ammonia in order to cycle your aquarium, just throw fish food in there and let it rot, and you will get ammonia to form. There is no need to buy ammonia to put in your tank.
 
1fast300z

1fast300z

Member
Lion Craz,
Thank you very much for the quick replies man, Your helping me alot on this one. I will definently just add food to the aquarium and monitor the levels, that seems like a much better idea. As for the bacteria.. will that come on its own if I introduce the ammonia or should I try to find a source of it to use? Also what is your opinion on the MAG-drive pumps? I am going to run this aquarium with a model3 wet/dry filter and am uncertain as to what size pump to get. I am leaning towards getting a pump that will get me around 1200 GPH.
Thanks again.
 
lion_crazz

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by 1fast300z
I will definently just add food to the aquarium and monitor the levels, that seems like a much better idea. As for the bacteria.. will that come on its own if I introduce the ammonia or should I try to find a source of it to use?
If you put fish food or a cocktail shrimp into the aquarium, it will begin to decay, and ammonia will form. Bacteria will form from this to break down the ammonia. There is nothing you need to do except get fish food or a piece of seafood to throw into the tank.
Also what is your opinion on the MAG-drive pumps?
Mag-Drive's are one of the best internal pumps on the market. They are much better than competing brands, such as Rio, among others. You will be happy with a Mag-Drive.
I am going to run this aquarium with a model3 wet/dry filter and am uncertain as to what size pump to get. I am leaning towards getting a pump that will get me around 1200 GPH.
Thanks again.
For your return, I would go with a Mag-Drive 12, which would give you 1200 gph. Then, with a couple Maxi-Jet or AquaClear powerheads in the tank, you will be good to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top