24 jbj-stocking the chambers?

dkfloyd

dkfloyd

Member
I am curious how everyone stocks their chambers in their tanks.
I have the sponge in the first chamber, rock rubble and the charcoal in the middle along with the sponge and the heater and return in the third.
I am always wondering if this is ok?? Especially since I can't seem to raise my phosphate level.
 
alivia's 12 gl

alivia's 12 gl

Member
I have a 12 gl JBJ 12 gl.....my media is as follows....
1st......sponge
2nd.... Charcoal and ceramic rings......i know every one takes out...not me
3rd .....upgraded pump and heater
4th......Bio-balls on top....and everyone takes out also....not me again
And some other mods i made to my nano....but thats the filter media...
 
J

jamiegrl

Guest
I have been asking the same thing around this sight
What i have gathered somepeople do is remove bioballs and ceramic rings
I may have read the thread wrong but you shouldn't want phosphate in your tank at all... it promotes algae growth
Phosphates can occur from the water source and overfeeding
I use phosphate pads, carbon, and sponge in the first, heater in the second and nothing in the 3rd
my tank ran the best when I had the same in the first chamber, chaeto and LR rubble in the second, and heater in the 3rd
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by dkfloyd
http:///forum/post/2537323
Especially since I can't seem to raise my phosphate level.
Why do you want to?

Anyway I run nothing back there. Clean in and out sponge for catching solid particulates and a BioCube Skimmer. Bag of carbon 2 weeks out of the month.
 
dkfloyd

dkfloyd

Member
Isnt a "normal" phosphate level that most people have is around 8.2?
On my reading scale, it says,"too low".
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by dkfloyd
http:///forum/post/2538083
Isnt a "normal" phosphate level that most people have is around 8.2?
On my reading scale, it says,"too low".
LOL.... I think you mean pH level... which doesnt stand for Phosphate. Phosphate is PO4, and that should be 0. pH stands for Potential Hydrogen, and yes that should be about 8.2. If you list all of your tanks specifics we may be able to give some assistance as to why its so low. Which by the way what is it?
 
gmann1139

gmann1139

Active Member
First chamber: 1 sponge, carbon, LR.
Second chamber: More LR, chaeto.
Third chamber: Heater
I've found that I have to wash the LR from the first chamber once a month, as its bag gets clogged with stuff that got through the sponge.
I also vacuum out the third chamber with every WC. I get more detritus out of there than I do out of the front of the tank.
 
dkfloyd

dkfloyd

Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2538087
LOL.... I think you mean pH level... which doesnt stand for Phosphate. Phosphate is PO4, and that should be 0. pH stands for Potential Hydrogen, and yes that should be about 8.2. If you list all of your tanks specifics we may be able to give some assistance as to why its so low. Which by the way what is it?
OMG, I am such an idiot. DUH. Yes and thank you. I meant pH.
I have 19 lbs. of LR, 40 lbs of live sand, 3 snails, 7 hermits and 1 cleaner shrimp.
Nitrate .5
Nitrite 0
KH 150
pH 7.0
Salt 1.24
Ammonia 0
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
WOW your pH is very low.. but first look at a couple of things, are you measuring your salinity with a swing arm hydrometer? if so i would strongly suggest getting or borrowing a refractometer to test your salinity, hydrometers can be very inacurate. Also your pH test kit make sure its a high range kit not a low range one. Low range kits only go up to 7.0 if its higher than that it wont show. If by chance it is a high range kit, I would suggest getting another kit. 7.0 pH is almost freshwater readings... I think your kit is either faulty or the wrong type...
 
dkfloyd

dkfloyd

Member
I have a refractometer. I also have tested with two tests, one being the strip tests and the other being the deluxe marine master test kit. That one goes from 7.6 to 8.4 They are both on the low side. I don't get it either??
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by dkfloyd
http:///forum/post/2538468
I just tested it again just now, and it reads 8.0
what time of day are you testing. Your PH will be lower when your lights just click on than it will be right before they shut off. Raise your salinity to 1.026 slowly see if this helps. Minor swings in pH from morning to night are expected but from 7 to 8 is a very large swing and can be extremly stressful to your fish.
When you do water changes how is the process done? Take me through from fresh water to adding salt and then right through to the change. There maybe something off there too.
 
dkfloyd

dkfloyd

Member
I am mixing the salt with RO water and aerating it for at least 24-48 hours. I do about a 10% water change every week. I slowly add back in to replace.
 
perfectdark

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by dkfloyd
http:///forum/post/2538974
I am mixing the salt with RO water and aerating it for at least 24-48 hoursSounds good. I do about a 10% water change every week. I slowly add back in to replace.shouldnt be an issue, how slowly?
I dont see any major issues here, even your alk level is good. Have you tested for calcium and or magnesium?
What test gave you the 7 reading? was it the strips? If so I would suggest doing all liquid tests from now on for pH, depending on when you took your reading 8.0 isnt bad. I would test pH at least 2 times a day morning and night to see what the swing is. And do it for a few days in a row.
 
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