55 Gallon Tank Setup

w glint

w glint

Member
Hello everyone!
So, heres the story: in a few months i will be setting up my new 55 gallon tank, but i have a few questions and i would like alll the suggestions i can get.
I plan for it to be a FOWLR tank ( and maybe some beginner corals down the road, who knows ), and i already have some of the fish going in it. currently i have a 40 gallon system, with 2 20 gallon tanks, one with my juvinille Snowflake eel, and the other has my clownfish, 2 damsels, and my cleaner shrimp. ( i know the eel and the shrimp could be a problem, but the eel has only been feed dead foods and hasnt given the small crab in his tank even a glance yet, but if its a problem, the shrimp will be relocated )
My big questions are:
1. i was curious about man made live rock (AgoCrete) , as i dont want to break the bank and buy the usual 50-60 lbs of live rock for the new tank, and i was curious about curing DIY live rock, considering it has nothing on it to start with? and how that whole process works ( i have a general understanding )
2. this goes with number 1, but how should i go about cycling the tank with the DIY live rock, and i would prefer to do a no-fish cycle.
3. my other system was my first SW tank, and i know i cut corners during set up and rushed through it, and i know my cycle and set up of my bio-filter was lacking, so i want to do it right this time.
4. would drilling the tank be a good idea? i plan to use one of my 20 or 10 gallon tanks as a sump to put my skimmer in, as well as the HOB filter and heater and ect. my other option would be a overflow box, but yet again, another expense.
Equipment that i do / already have:
1 penguin 350 HOB filter ( no bio wheels )
1 Aqua C Remora HOB protein skimmer
a few assorted heaters
1 20'' marineland LED light fixture (will get a second one when i set up my 55 )
2 24'' Coralife dual bulb light fixture (1 antic and 1 10k bulbs apiece)
i also have all the basic stuff - siphons, buckets, water testing kits, additives, ect
I would just like some suggestions and what would be good ideas, and stuff like that!
All input is greatly appreciated!!
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by W Glint http:///t/389595/55-gallon-tank-setup#post_3444373
Hello everyone!
So, heres the story: in a few months i will be setting up my new 55 gallon tank, but i have a few questions and i would like alll the suggestions i can get.
I plan for it to be a FOWLR tank ( and maybe some beginner corals down the road, who knows ), and i already have some of the fish going in it. currently i have a 40 gallon system, with 2 20 gallon tanks, one with my juvinille Snowflake eel, and the other has my clownfish, 2 damsels, and my cleaner shrimp. ( i know the eel and the shrimp could be a problem, but the eel has only been feed dead foods and hasnt given the small crab in his tank even a glance yet, but if its a problem, the shrimp will be relocated )
My big questions are:
1. i was curious about man made live rock (AgoCrete) , as i dont want to break the bank and buy the usual 50-60 lbs of live rock for the new tank, and i was curious about curing DIY live rock, considering it has nothing on it to start with? and how that whole process works ( i have a general understanding )
2. this goes with number 1, but how should i go about cycling the tank with the DIY live rock, and i would prefer to do a no-fish cycle.
3. my other system was my first SW tank, and i know i cut corners during set up and rushed through it, and i know my cycle and set up of my bio-filter was lacking, so i want to do it right this time.
4. would drilling the tank be a good idea? i plan to use one of my 20 or 10 gallon tanks as a sump to put my skimmer in, as well as the HOB filter and heater and ect. my other option would be a overflow box, but yet again, another expense.
Equipment that i do / already have:
1 penguin 350 HOB filter ( no bio wheels )
1 Aqua C Remora HOB protein skimmer
a few assorted heaters
1 20'' marineland LED light fixture (will get a second one when i set up my 55 )
2 24'' Coralife dual bulb light fixture (1 antic and 1 10k bulbs apiece)
i also have all the basic stuff - siphons, buckets, water testing kits, additives, ect
I would just like some suggestions and what would be good ideas, and stuff like that!
All input is greatly appreciated!!
Welcome to the forums!
1. Aragocrete takes six months to a year to cure. It's best to leave it in a river or pond for a long time and almost forget about it before you can use it. The concrete/cement is highly alkaline and takes a long time to become pH neutral. It's better to pay $2 a pound or so from Marco rocks. /p>
2. Great. Use a piece of shrimp to start the cycle. Once ammonia and nitrite are zero, add a cuc and go from there. Read, read, read.
3. Great. Heed the advice of some of the more experienced reefers on the forum and I'm sure you will have a great tank. Btw, the fixture you have for lighting will not be enough intense light to keep any corals. It's better to research this more and make a better decision.
4. If you want a cheap, good looking custom overflow, look into buying the 750 or the 1500gph kit from glass holes. It's better to upsize it a little- but this overflow is internal, will we your mind at ease and will not break the bank.
Get a sump. A 20g high is ok, but a 20g long would give you more room. With that glass holes overflow, you are looking at getting a mag 7 or a mag 9 pump for a return pump. Be very careful with skimmer choices.
Also, 55g tanks are great, however, 75g tanks are easier to aquascape and make much. Errrr reef tanks over time.
Good luck and I'm here to help. Pm me if you need to.
 
w glint

w glint

Member
Thanks for getting back to me so fast Blitz!
I was pretty sure my lighting was low for corals, and i wouldnt dabble in them for quite awille, so that is good news.
I was curious, so if i do get the rock (dead, man made) from another source, how do i ''seed'' / cure it if it has nothing on it to begin with? is it just as simple as putting it in with other live rock and having it spread to the dead rock to make it live? or does it become live during the cycle of the tank with the shrimp.
Also, if anyone could clarify, what would the time line be for starting it. Do i add the rock ( dead rock ) during the cycle? and what about already live rock. i was planning on moving the live rock i already have to the 55, because i dont plan on keeping the 40 gallon system going after the 55 is up and cycled, and it already has a small amount of purple coraline algae on it.
Thanks so much guys, your fish tank wisdom is very needed :)
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by W Glint http:///t/389595/55-gallon-tank-setup#post_3444400
Thanks for getting back to me so fast Blitz!
I was pretty sure my lighting was low for corals, and i wouldnt dabble in them for quite awille, so that is good news.
I was curious, so if i do get the rock (dead, man made) from another source, how do i ''seed'' / cure it if it has nothing on it to begin with? is it just as simple as putting it in with other live rock and having it spread to the dead rock to make it live? or does it become live during the cycle of the tank with the shrimp.
Also, if anyone could clarify, what would the time line be for starting it. Do i add the rock ( dead rock ) during the cycle? and what about already live rock. i was planning on moving the live rock i already have to the 55, because i dont plan on keeping the 40 gallon system going after the 55 is up and cycled, and it already has a small amount of purple coraline algae on it.
Thanks so much guys, your fish tank wisdom is very needed :)
Dead rock or base rock is of old coral skeletons that are mined from (typically) Florida. The base rock should set the foundation while a few pieces of live rock are set on top. The more base rock you have, the more algae problems you will probably have to start with if your filtration is weak. Base rock can and will be inhabited by micro flora and fauna as well as various algaes and sponges over time. However, I always say that it is seeded base rock and not true live rock. (there is a whole argument there).
Swf.com has some awesome live rock for sale, but there are other cheaper sources. The place I bought my live rock from had 40 pounds for $140 with free shipping. If you can't afford that, then you may need to consider switching hobbies!! This hobby gets expensive quick if you don't know what you are doing. Heck, I know what I am doing and still wasted $300 on the last setup I had. Lol.
Go ahead and research right now the three main forms of filtration: protein skimming, algae scrubbers and chemical filtration medias. Another main point that I can not stress enough is water flow.
Also, I highly suggest reviewing some of my snakes methods threads. You can do a simple search to find the link. If you can't find it, I'll post the link.
 
w glint

w glint

Member
I was thinking of buying some rock from a site that is agrocrete, and has been PH balanced and all of that. - How should i introduce that to the tank? on initial set up, or after the cycle with a few piece of live rock with it? i think that is the part thats got me lost.
Also, do you think an Algae Scrubber is a good idea for a 55 gallon? just curious on how well they work / how large mine would need to be. my skimmer does pretty good, but im always looking for another way to lower organics.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I use algae scrubbers on all my tanks. They are a lot of maintenance but well worth it. I will also be using a protein skimmer soon... I believe in redundancy.
I don't really understand why you are hung up on using agrocrete, but that's just your personal choice I guess. Try it and see...
I personally like the looks of harvested coral skeletons for base rock. If you are worried about making cliffs and overhangs - it can easily be done with some "mortar" from Marco rocks, with some zip ties, a drill bit and some pvc... lol Anyways, I guess you would just treat it as base rock and start the tank with it. I personally don't trust it, myself.
An algae scrubber does very well on systems with sumps. I highly suggest building a scrubber in a food grade plastic tote OR a blacked out aquarium that is partitioned and drilled. (like a 10g tank) Either way, it will take some PVC, a pump, and some DIY skills to get it all together and started. I have a thread on how to build your own scrubber.
One thing about scrubbers is that you have to keep them very well lit - and I also suggest to have at least one herbivorous fish in the tank.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
An acid bleach bath would be recommended to limit an algae issue, but you can have the same algae issues with LR as well......Macro rocks would be a good place to check out for rock if you don't want to break the bank.......
Welcome!!!!!!!
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Lol, yup, Acrylic. I've told him at least three times now about that place and he still wants to go with aragocrete - so

Aragocrete is also really heavy and can add a substantial amount of weight to the tank and put a lot of pressure on the glass if you don't have a sand bed. Even if you do, you would have to watch out and spread it out evenly with as much touching the substrate as possible. Acid bathing it, as Acrylic said would also be highly recommended. I think most people use a solution of miriatic acid and water? I dunno, I would have to look it up.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Your correct Seth.....I was just trying to keep it short and simple for the time being.....Some do just a bleach & water soaking, others do an acid & water soaking and then there are others who do both.....The acid bath is going to be your more effective approach though.....Big thread about it over on RC....
 
w glint

w glint

Member
Thanks for the advice everyone! i just talked to a friend of mine, and ill be getting about 50 lbs of dry rock from him for only 80 bucks!
i was also questioning a choice in substrate and how to cycle all of it. i was leaning towards getting live arg. sand, and putting that in, the 50 lbs of rock, a few pieces of live rock from my current system, and then cycling with a table shrimp. does this sound like a good idea to get the dry rock colonized with bacteria?
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
60# of dry aragonite sand (two 30lb bags) would be perfect for your size tank. live sand is a gimmick used to sell wet sand to unsuspecting new hobbyists. :( Your sand will get seeded with bacteria and organisms as time progresses.
Or you don't have to have any sand at all and just paint the bottom of your aquarium flat white (like I'm doing to my tank. lol)
 
w glint

w glint

Member
Alright, sounds good! Ha, that would be nice, and ez for cleaning, but my eel loves to dig his caves and tunnels, and i have a bunch of snails that burrow too. also, i just like the look of the sandy bottom :) As for cycling with the dry rock in there, do you think thats a good idea?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Agree.....Personally I'm not a big fan of sand.....Still debating whether I'm going to go SSB or BB.....
Either way no need of the added expense of buying LS (live sand). You can buy dry sand and get a cup of sand from your buddy to seed yours.....
Not a fan of cycling with shrimp....I prefer to ghost feed.....could be beneficial as well, so you can see and adjust your flow in the DT while cycling......
 
w glint

w glint

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/389595/55-gallon-tank-setup#post_3444586
Agree.....Personally I'm not a big fan of sand.....Still debating whether I'm going to go SSB or BB.....
Either way no need of the added expense of buying LS (live sand). You can buy dry sand and get a cup of sand from your buddy to seed yours.....
Not a fan of cycling with shrimp....I prefer to ghost feed.....could be beneficial as well, so you can see and adjust your flow in the DT while cycling......
Ghost feed? if you could explain the part highlighted that would be awsome! :)
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Ghost feeding is pretending like you have fish in your tank while you are cycling... and feed them what you would normally feed them on a day to day basis. This keeps the bacteria going and constantly cycling so that when you do add fish, your tank will be used to the food being added and broken down. It won't cause an ammonia spike - I.E. your fish will stay alive.
What Acrylic means by watching and adjusting your flow while you feed means basically just that. When you feed your tank, food goes everywhere and for a brief second, you can see where all your water is flowing. Then, you can follow where your food is going and settling. That way, you can identify "dead spots" or areas of low flow that need some additional water flow. By identifying dead spots, you can move your powerheads in that direction to provide that much needed flow in that area. If you have dead spots in the tank, it will lead to algae problems, waste accumulation in some spots, cyanobacterial growth, detritus build up and cause problems for an otherwise healthy tank. By always keeping food, waste, and detritus suspended in the water column - it is more likely to be overflowed into your sump or other filtration devices to be taken care of. :D
Acrylic, is that bout right?
 
w glint

w glint

Member
So, if i was to do a Ghost feed cycle, is that the only form of nutrients i add to my tank during the cycle process? and if so, should i run my filters / skimmers? and when its cycling should i leave the true pieces of live rock in the tank or put them in after the cycle?
 
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