A few rookie questions... : )

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fishyclown

Guest
Hi all! I've just been given (yes given!) a 70gal reef tank from my neighbor. She had it for 4 years and it has gone by the wayside since she's had kids. So I was the lucky one she trusted to take it and love it like she once did. I'm a science teacher and am very interested in learning everything there is to know about this (expensive!) hobby... :D
I've had the tank for about two months now. We moved it from her house to mine (well the guys did) with about 2 inches of water and all the substrate (crushed coral and shells) still in it. The LR and three fish were removed. We siphoned a lot of junk out of the water and totally sifted through the substrate because it was covered with red stuff. When the water was refilled the rocks were placed and the fish were reintroduced. Everyone is happy and lively. They even wanted to eat that night.
When I say everyone, I mean: 1 yellow tang who has filled out better since he's been eating properly, 1 percula clown, and one yellow tailed damsel... plus some tiny little worm type things that have a hard white casing and pink to red feathery plumes that come out. She called them feather duster worms, but I had always thought they'd be bigger. I also have noticed some of what I think I've identified as bristle worms. I saw 5 of them last night and asked the lfs guy what to do about them. I found that they are bad & I should remove them. I'm going to try with plastic tweezers since metal might do something bad to the water. Are there any kind of critters that might eat them for me?
One thing I've discovered is that I have a red algae/bacteria problem. I've narrowed the cause down to the lighting, since the shadowed areas under the LR aren't getting covered by it. I've had to do some serious cleaning twice already and each time I've pretty much done a 50% water change because I'm trying to suck up so much of the red stuff. Can this be bad? I even took a toothbrush to the rock because it was so thick. The red stuff came off like moss and I found that there was some good green algae underneath it. The tang didn't appear to be eating the red stuff, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try and irradicate it. Oh yeah, I forgot that there's a limpet in there and he seems to be eating it.
I currently do not have any sort of clean up crew. I was waiting to add stuff because I wanted to learn more first before adding anything that I might accidentally kill. How long do the fish really need the lights on? I want to decrease light to help curb the growth of red - whatever it is. What kind of animal would eat it?
Sorry the message was long, wanted to give a little history to help any advice. Thanks in advance for anything. I've really enjoyed reading from this forum.
Thanks,
Shelly ;)
 

angelgirl

Member
Good for you I am so happy that you have chosen this for a new hobby you are sure to have a blast with your new pets. As for the red stuff it is red slime just go to your IFS and get some redslime remover i dont remember the tech. name it will work in 1 day. I also found i needed more circulation and with the help of power heads by aquarium is now totaly free of the redslime/ I have 5 powerheads in a 50 gallon tank. Good luck and have fun, and always take it slow.
Angelgirl :D :eek:
 

burnnspy

Active Member
What lights do you have?
What equipment is running?
What are the water parameters(including pH, nitrates, phosphates, S.G and alkalinity)?
Your red slime can be stopped by reducing your light time to 4hrs and feeding half as much fish food. When it goes away, resume lights to 12hrs and maybe some feeding too.
BurnNSpy
 

nm reef

Active Member
Mighty friendly neighbor ya got there.....and welcome to the board....sounds like a very nice start.........provide all the info you possibly can.......specifically type of filtering equipment.....lighting etc....folks here will bend over backwards to help ya all they can.......sounds like you managed to re-setup without much of a cycle if any........for the algae you may consider changing or replacing the lighting....and a clean-up crew may be warrented if your water levels are ready....ammonia/nitrite/nitrate.......do you test for these yet?......sorry I can't help more.......keep us posted and keep askin away....... :cool:
 
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fishyclown

Guest
Thanks so much for the info. you've already supplied...
This is all the hardware she gave me with the tank: 2 Emperor filters (the double ones with bio-wheels), 1 white PowerGlow 40watt bulb, 1 blue MarineGlow 40watt bulb, 1 heater, 1 magnetic glass cleaner thing (which has come in very handy already!) and a float-around thermometer. Oh yeah, and the cabinet/stand that her husband built and four books. One is on inverts, two are general setup stuff for saltwater, and one is a fish identifying atlas.
I have no test kits yet. She thought she had some, but couldn't find them. So, I don't know levels of anything really... Which should be bad, but I'm doing such huge water changes so often that I thought I was removing quite a bit of bad stuff anyway for the size of the tank. The fish are happy as can be it seems and the little feather duster guys are enjoying themselves too. BTW, should I feed them anything - the book didn't say.
My temp stays at 80 degrees F and the salinity/sp.gravity is between 1.020 - .022 so that's OK right? :confused:
I've read a lot about filtering and thought about an under-the-substrate filter... I have no power heads (don't even know what they are). So I realize that there's not a lot of circulation through the tank really, except on the surface. Although, when I look at the deeper water I do see bubbles and other micro things moving around.
I'm starting to journal on my calendar what all I do each time so I will get an idea of how fast it all happens. Just last night I cleaned the rocks & glass again and just stirred the gravel up so it didn't look all red. For that kind of thing I was hoping a clean up crew would help. What sort of inverts should I get for that? I was thinking snails, shrimp, and a brittle star (since they won't eat my feather dusters). What do you think?
Thanks again for your help!
Shelly :)
 

pootietang#1

New Member
Some very good advice to you is NEVER get an underground filter, salinity's about right, might wanna tweak it up to 1.023-1.024, and powerheads are things that suck up water and then shoot it out making a current, which is very helpful with filters, and you might get a decrease in the red algae, and it'll keep your fish a little bit more excersized.
You need to get a test kit as soon as possible, and also, as many water changes you've done, it could've thrown the ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate off, so don't try and do a 35 gal. water change every time you're just trying to get rid of the algae, just get what you need to get and no more, although I can understand why you're doing so many, it's still prob not good. Finally, snails are a wise purchase as they would aid in getting rid of tha algae. Hope this is good info!!! :D :D
 
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fishyclown

Guest
Me again!
Ok, so it sounds like I need more circulation for sure (saw that a few times), but could I also do myself a favor and change the substrate to help with the NO2 cycle? I've got about an inch and a half of crushed coral/shells, but no sand. My neighbor said that white sand looks beautiful in it, but she would eventually vacuum it out when she was cleaning the bottom. With a 70 gal. tank how many clean up animals do I need?
I've also wondered what exactly is it that makes a reef tank a reef tank? Is it the setup or the things you keep in it?
When I get a power head or heads where should they be placed? Up high? Or can you point or position the whole thing lower (like substrate level) to stop the build up on the bottom?
I think I'm gettin' somewhere now! THANKS!
Shelly ;)
 

pootietang#1

New Member
Ok, you're cycling, right? Right now, I wouldn't add anything to the mix until it's done. Powerheads can be placed wherever there are dead spots (places that don't have water running through and buildup debris) to move the water. Later on, I would add live sand, where there are little critters roaming around eating all the unwanted wastes that fall to the bottom. A reef tank is a replica of the coral reefs on the coast of any place that has one. Something that has corals, inverts, not too many fish, with the emphasis being on the corals, and very high lighting, and a large amount of filtering. For me, I atleast have one snail/ starfish/ or shrimp for every gallon I have. I think it depends, though i think everybody else will have some good "estimations"! Some, atleast one powerhead should be pointed near the surface to get oxygen into the water (thanks for informing me, MR.SALTY!) two should be on each end glass panel, facing the other end, and one should be at the bottom to keep from buildup of detritus. Hope this helps too!
 
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the new guy

Guest
First off “Welcome” I am glad to hear of your good fortune!
The first thing I would tell you is to go and get a decent Saltwater Test Kit, initially you want to test for; Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia, and PH. Most test kits that you find will tell you what levels are recommended.
I was wondering if the algae you see is actually red or is it a brownish red? The reason I ask is if it is brownish than you are probably experiencing a Diatom bloom, which occurs near the end of a cycle. I understand you used some stuff from the established tank, but you could still recycle.
I guess the best way to see if you are still in a recycle is (when you get your test kit) check the Nitrites, in a cycled tank they will be 0 and then check your Nitrates, you should have some with your substrate.
Next get a good book and read, read, read. Being a science teacher I am sure you are aware there is a ton of information out there for you to use.
The most important thing I have to say is HAVE FUN :) and use this BB’s search tool to do some research and if you can’t find the answer don’t hesitate to ask.
I think I can post this link; it provides a lot of info on the nitrogen cycle and it really helped me a lot.
http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquariafaq.html
Sharks, if I can’t post it please forgive me!!!
:rolleyes:
 

burnnspy

Active Member
My definition of a reef is a tank that houses 1 or more corals and may contain fish or other inverts.
I recommend getting rid of the CC and adding a plenum. Then add 4" of Seaflor special grade aragonite sand. As a final step add a bag of Natures Ocean live sand some live rock and you will have great results with minimum effort.
BurnNSpy
 
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fishyclown

Guest
Hey New Guy?
The stuff I'm seeing is reddish-brown... at first I thought it was algae. The a customer at the lfs, who seemed knowledgeable, told me that it was cyanobacteria - because of using tap water. The previous owner of the tank had taught me to treat tap water and use it in the tank.
I've also been told that it's red slime. Having studied the Kingdom Fungi, I think they could mean a slime mold, but I've never heard of one in marine water.
So if it is indeed a diatom bloom (those are brownish-red?) then I am nearing the end of a cycling of the tank that I didn't even know I was doing!? WOW!
Ok, so my next purchase should be the saltwater test kit. I will then add the dsb that I've heard such good reports about. Of course that will have to happen after we move the tank. New carpet is being put in soon and I'd rather wait until after we have to move that big ol' thing. Hee, ho, hum... Won't that be fun?
What kind of readings should I get with the kit if I am, in fact, ending a cycle in the tank? If I'm cycling, are my fish freaking out and I just don't know it? They seem fine but could be because they're really hardy individuals! :)
Thanks everyone!
Shelly
 

burnnspy

Active Member
Red slime is a bacteria(cyanobacteria).
When nitrites and ammonia are zero then you should add a clenup crew, they will help with the algae.
Tapwater is not for reef tanks, no additives will remove all of the problems that are found in tapwater.
I recommend the Tap Water purifier for tanks that evaporate less than a gallon of water a day. Bigger tanks need RO/DI units.
BurnNSpy
 
T

the new guy

Guest
Salt Newbie,
When you tank finishes a cycle there will be 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and your Nitrate will begin to rise. What happens is your biological filter begins to turn dangerous ammonia into less hazardous nitrate, but dont be fooled you want to keep your nitrate as low as possibe too (this is where your deep sand bed comes in) the "critters" (bacteria) in the sand get rid of the nitrate.
Just to let you know, when you add your Live Sand your tank will (most likely) recycle. To see this just check your Nitrite a few days after adding your sand and they should rise. ;)
[ June 25, 2001: Message edited by: The New Guy ]
 

pootietang#1

New Member
hey, new kid, I think I would have to disagree, if it's already alive, and NOT a huge load on your filters, I think it wouldn't do anything but stay the same.
 
T

the new guy

Guest
Pootie (can I type that?),
I assume (I know a$$ u me) you are refering to the recycle when adding the live sand? You may be perfectly correct; I was just warning her to let her know that if you let your tank cycle and then add the sand, it may (most likely) recycle. I guess it would have been clearer to say may recycle. Sorry if I am still wrong :)
[ June 25, 2001: Message edited by: The New Guy ]
[ June 25, 2001: Message edited by: The New Guy ]
 
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fishyclown

Guest
I really appreciate you guys' help with this!
I'm assuming that when I move the tank, meaning that I'm taking out all rock and almost all of the water, I'll change the substrate and then have to cycle the tank. How long does that take? Since I've basically done that this past time, can't I let the fish & rock (with dusters) stay in the tank again?
What do you think? Sorry if I'm being a pest!
Shelly :rolleyes:
 

andymi

Member
I don't think your talk will "recycle", once all the necessary bacteria are there, there is nothing really to recycle unless you add to much at once, then you may get an ammonia spike or something, so go slow and add things slowly. As far as Under Gravel Filters there are mixed emotions on these. I know people who have had them in their tanks since the 1970's and their tanks run fine, they even propogate corals with them. The biggest advice I can give is find someone who seems knowledgeable, look at their tank and see how good it looks and how long it has been in operation. Then stick with that persons advice. Otherwise you will get caught up in swapping equipment out week after week. When I first started people were saying wet/dry is the way to go, no UGF. I started that way and had problems, went to an UGF with CaribSea special grade substrate, a few power heads and a sump and I am doing pretty good now. I would recommend getting a lot of live rock. I also have a 70 gallon and I have about 80-90lbs of live rock in my tank. This will also help with the filtering. You can always try to add more substrate to make it 4" or so, add the live rock and some good power heads for current. In a 70 gallon 3-4 Hagen 402's would probably be good. Put two on each side pointing at each other to create a good current. With this setup I think you will be all set. The only other addition might be a protein skimmer and lose the bio-wheel setups. Just my opinion though, like I said , find someone you trust and stick with them so you dont waste more money on different types of products.
--Andy
 
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