a few simple clarification of saltwater terms...

nathanrudy9

Member
1 what is "ro" water ? my sink water has a filter is that ok ?
2 what the does the word "sump" mean ?
3 when i had my 3 false percula clown fish they just stood near the hadonni carpet anemonie but never swam through it or through the tentacles of the florida condi anemonie dont they live in it ??
4 what does it mean when a coral neads a strong flow of water or a medium flow please define that.
5-if a coral needs strong light but it doesnt say it needs metal halide lighting will a 65 watts double 48 in lights 1 atonic (blue) suffice ?
THANKS GUYS AND I APPRECIATE ANY HELP
NATHAN
 

renogaw

Active Member
Originally Posted by nathanrudy9
1 what is "ro" water ? my sink water has a filter is that ok ?
2 what the does the word "sump" mean ?
3 when i had my 3 false percula clown fish they just stood near the hadonni carpet anemonie but never swam through it or through the tentacles of the florida condi anemonie dont they live in it ??
4 what does it mean when a coral neads a strong flow of water or a medium flow please define that.
5-if a coral needs strong light but it doesnt say it needs metal halide lighting will a 65 watts double 48 in lights 1 atonic (blue) suffice ?
THANKS GUYS AND I APPRECIATE ANY HELP
NATHAN

RO water is reverse osmosis. your tap water is not good enough for salt water. it may have phosphates, nitrates, hard water, copper, etc in it. RO water is an almost 100% impurity removing system.
a sump is a tank of water seperate from your display tank that helps with extra filtration by giving you more water in your system, a place for more live rock, sand, etc. people usually put a FUGE in there to provide a place for macro algae to filter out the nitrates and phosphates in the tank.
depending on where the false percs came from, they may not know how to have an anenome host them. they may or may not ever go into an anenome. especially the condi since there is almost no chance it knows that the anenome is hostable.
some corals need more flow through them, some need less. it depends on how they receive their food. some are filter feeders and/or need a way to have their bodies cleaned for them, which would be high flow. some are low flow because they are more photosynthetic.
130w on a 55 gallon is NO where near good enough for a lot of the corals, and 0% of the photosynthetic anenomes (especially a carpet...). MOST corals are going to need at least 4wpg, but to be safe the more the better.
 

nathanrudy9

Member
i had a chili coral and it looked open and nice and a giono yellow which really blossomed in a day into a huge flower very pretty... and some leather lobed and leather tree corals that were fine with my lighting....they were beautiful for a week till they all died.
i dont know what 4wpg is sorry
nathan
 

grumpygils

Active Member
Originally Posted by nathanrudy9
i had a chili coral and it looked open and nice and a giono yellow which really blossomed in a day into a huge flower very pretty... and some leather lobed and leather tree corals that were fine with my lighting....they were beautiful for a week till they all died.
i dont know what 4wpg is sorry
nathan
Hey Nathan,
Chili coral needs no light at all. It is not photosyntheitc. I don't know about the giono yellow? See PM
Mc
 

sk8shorty01

Active Member
I believe your corals, among other things in your tank are dying because of the presence of nitrites and ammonia. I assume you are talking about the same tank in your other threads. I think you are moving way to fast, and ordering to many things at once. Slow down and let your cycle take place so that your tank will be stable and will be able to support some type of life.
 

djcanis

Member
SLOW DOWN. You have 5 posts going at the same time, all saying the same thing. YOUR GOING WAY TO FAST!!!
1st) let your tank cycle, slow down on the water changes, do not stop them completly, but abotu 10% once a week should be ok through the end of your cycle.
2nd) once the cycle has completed add livestock slowly.
(Cycle); Ammonia will spike (rise) and then drop off, next Nitrites will spike and drop off followed by Nitrates. When these nitrates drop your tank is cycled. Basically, you are waiting for bacteria to build up in the rock and substrate that converts the ammonia (waste in tank) into non harmful matter.
3rd) Livestock, first is a clean up crew. These are snails, shrimp, adn crabs that scavange the tank and "clean" it. They will eat leftover food and help control algee and micro organism growth.
4th) Once cc crew is in, and parameters are ok, begin adding fish slowly. 1 ever few weeks. Always check the water before ordering/purchasing and before adding. I know some people have mentioned QT, that is a option depending on the reliability of where you get your fish from. (The premis of QT is to make sure the live stock is disease free and acclimated to your water, and does not sicken any other fish.)
5th) Everything in saltwater is proportional, rock, sand, watts of lights. Everything has a suggested porportion to the size of your tank. (IE 1 to 1 1/2 lbs of LR per gallon, 4 watts per gallon of light) etc... The point is to get the same type of ratios as the natural ocean.
6th) The lights you have are no where near adaquate for any type of phototropic corals. Stay away from those untill you can upgrade lights.
7th) Before adding anything to your tank. READ, READ, and READ somemore. Don't go squarely off the LFS, they are a business out to make money. Some, not all, but some could care less what works in your tank and what doesnt. They sell you a fish it dies, oh well, you can come back and give them more $ for a new fish. Make sure to check the diet, water conditions, agression, reef safeness, and ability to co exist with other species before adding anything to your tank.
I know all to well the desire to jump right in and and have this big beautiful tank of exotic fish and coral sitting in the living room, but unfortunately, you see the results. I was in the same boat. All I can say is take your time.
 

m0nk

Active Member
I posted this in a couple of your other threads, but you really should read up on as much as you can. I think it will help you far more than creating a bunch of new threads.


[hr]
Here's a thread that's a sticky in the New Hobbyists section that has links to tons of helpful threads that the mods have put together. It's got all of the most useful information that any new hobbyist should read:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/264597/a-list-of-extremely-helpful-threads-for-all-hobbyists
Please try to read as much as you can before adding any livestock and you'll likely find answers to questions you don't even know you have yet. Trust me, it's better to do your research first, then get things going.
 

nathanrudy9

Member
im leaving the tank alone for 30 days ahh patientce is the key to success..thanks all u guys for the help..meanwhile ill wait untill the tank has cycled a few times and paramaters are down...if any1 needs help with any metallica songs or solos let me know im a pretty good player.
thanks
nathan
 
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