acryllic vs glass
- Thread starter jk69ls6
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fedukeford
Active Member
Since its a pretty small tank it would be more cost effective to go with glass. Normally acrylic is just for bigger tanks since it weighs less.
sly
Active Member
Acryllic is stronger, lighter, more expensive, easier to scratch, can look hazy and can conform to very custom shapes.
Glass is cheaper, usually clearer, almost scratch proof, easier to break, and can leak easier at the seams.
Since Acryllic tanks can be bonded at the seams, they don't always have to have the cross bracing that glass tanks have. This eliminates shadowing of the water and makes the tanks look MUCH better under shimmering metal halide light systems.
Glass will not fade over time or lose it's clarity. It is heavier and requires silicone to seal it which means cross bracing. This silicone can degrade over time and result in leaks, but often this may never happen in most tanks.
Accryllic is easy to drill if you want to add custom fittings and downspouts to your tank.
Glass is slow to drill and if temered, is impossible to drill.
Glass is cheaper, usually clearer, almost scratch proof, easier to break, and can leak easier at the seams.
Since Acryllic tanks can be bonded at the seams, they don't always have to have the cross bracing that glass tanks have. This eliminates shadowing of the water and makes the tanks look MUCH better under shimmering metal halide light systems.
Glass will not fade over time or lose it's clarity. It is heavier and requires silicone to seal it which means cross bracing. This silicone can degrade over time and result in leaks, but often this may never happen in most tanks.
Accryllic is easy to drill if you want to add custom fittings and downspouts to your tank.
Glass is slow to drill and if temered, is impossible to drill.
phixer
Active Member
Hope this helps with your decision.
http://www.tanked.netfirms.com/acrylic.html#why
I recommend reading the Handbook of Acrylics for Submersibles, Hyperbaric Chambers, and Aquaria by Jerry Stachiw. Probably common sense, but did you ever wonder why the windows of submersibles and the canopies of most aircraft are made of acrylic? Consider the environment they operate in, rocky areas of extreme depth and extreme altitudes where temperatures and pressures can threaten survival. Life can be dependant on a material that provides maximum clairity and safety.
Many years ago acrylic had a tendency to yellow and thick soda lime float glass had a tendency to look green. Nowadays quality brands from reputable companies like the ones listed below will not yellow. And with the introduction of low iron glass AKA "Starphire" glass, the clairity of glass has improved also allowing better light transmission and no more of the ugly green tint. The two are very close when it comes to clairity nowdays. Where acrylic really shines (no pun intended) is in other areas, like resilency, insulating properties, safety and weight along with a few others. If your acrylic tank turned yellow or hazed , more than likely it was not maintained properly or was made from an old formula.
Acrylic is not glass and requires a completely different fabrication process. Acrylite, Polycast or Plexiglass will not yellow or haze unless someone intentionally chemically alters it. The canopies on our jets were exposed to direct sunlight and saltwater everyday for months on end, some were over 20 years old. The scratches get repaired but they are all clear, later models come factory tinted but none have ever yellowed over time. Canopies for military aircraft are made from Polycast. The canopies of the Blue Angel Hornets are some of the oldest in the fleet and have not yellowed either. Same for seaworld, Marine land and most other large public aquariums. These companies would not use acrylic if it had to be replaced every few years due to hazing or yellowing, it would not be cost effective.
Hazing or clouding (not to be confused with crazing) is caused by physical action or by contact with any number of incompatible chemicals. Wiping with a paper towel or a rag containing polyester can cause hazing. If the acrylic is hazy or clouded its often due to a series of micro scratches (physical damage) or the use of an incompatible chemical which discolored the surface i.e undiluted Isopropyl alcohol. When evaluating damage I use an optical micrometer to measure the depth of the scratches and determine if the damage is superficial or will have an effect on the materials structural integrity. Hazing is normally caused by a chemical burn or a series of very fine microscratches which give the appearance of a blur.
Chemicals are not used to repair scratches, scratches are a physical defect that must be repaired by physical means i.e sanding (Micromesh) then polishing with a fine abrasive in a liquid medium i.e (polish) to remove the clouding left by the sand paper.
Lots of good information out there, publications like the one mentioned above, the Concientious Marine aquarist and many others in addition to observation of practical applications using acrylic. IME working with acrylic and having used both for aquarium construction, I prefer acrylic. Nothing wrong with glass at all, I like it , but in this hobby its applications are somewhat limited when it comes to different shapes, safety and large tanks.
Sorry for the lengthy reply
http://www.tanked.netfirms.com/acrylic.html#why
I recommend reading the Handbook of Acrylics for Submersibles, Hyperbaric Chambers, and Aquaria by Jerry Stachiw. Probably common sense, but did you ever wonder why the windows of submersibles and the canopies of most aircraft are made of acrylic? Consider the environment they operate in, rocky areas of extreme depth and extreme altitudes where temperatures and pressures can threaten survival. Life can be dependant on a material that provides maximum clairity and safety.
Many years ago acrylic had a tendency to yellow and thick soda lime float glass had a tendency to look green. Nowadays quality brands from reputable companies like the ones listed below will not yellow. And with the introduction of low iron glass AKA "Starphire" glass, the clairity of glass has improved also allowing better light transmission and no more of the ugly green tint. The two are very close when it comes to clairity nowdays. Where acrylic really shines (no pun intended) is in other areas, like resilency, insulating properties, safety and weight along with a few others. If your acrylic tank turned yellow or hazed , more than likely it was not maintained properly or was made from an old formula.
Acrylic is not glass and requires a completely different fabrication process. Acrylite, Polycast or Plexiglass will not yellow or haze unless someone intentionally chemically alters it. The canopies on our jets were exposed to direct sunlight and saltwater everyday for months on end, some were over 20 years old. The scratches get repaired but they are all clear, later models come factory tinted but none have ever yellowed over time. Canopies for military aircraft are made from Polycast. The canopies of the Blue Angel Hornets are some of the oldest in the fleet and have not yellowed either. Same for seaworld, Marine land and most other large public aquariums. These companies would not use acrylic if it had to be replaced every few years due to hazing or yellowing, it would not be cost effective.
Hazing or clouding (not to be confused with crazing) is caused by physical action or by contact with any number of incompatible chemicals. Wiping with a paper towel or a rag containing polyester can cause hazing. If the acrylic is hazy or clouded its often due to a series of micro scratches (physical damage) or the use of an incompatible chemical which discolored the surface i.e undiluted Isopropyl alcohol. When evaluating damage I use an optical micrometer to measure the depth of the scratches and determine if the damage is superficial or will have an effect on the materials structural integrity. Hazing is normally caused by a chemical burn or a series of very fine microscratches which give the appearance of a blur.
Chemicals are not used to repair scratches, scratches are a physical defect that must be repaired by physical means i.e sanding (Micromesh) then polishing with a fine abrasive in a liquid medium i.e (polish) to remove the clouding left by the sand paper.
Lots of good information out there, publications like the one mentioned above, the Concientious Marine aquarist and many others in addition to observation of practical applications using acrylic. IME working with acrylic and having used both for aquarium construction, I prefer acrylic. Nothing wrong with glass at all, I like it , but in this hobby its applications are somewhat limited when it comes to different shapes, safety and large tanks.
Sorry for the lengthy reply
phixer
Active Member
Thanks. Over time and with enough pressure behind it, acrylic will reach saturation and allow water to pass through. At a very slow rate of course because of its molecular density, but none the less it will allow water to bleed through. Not to be confused with condensation.
The other unique thing about acrylic is that it is somewhat predictable under tension. When a glass panel is subjected to pressure there arent usually signs that it is reaching max PSI until it fails catastrophically. With acrylic there are signs of stress before it eventually cracks.
The other unique thing about acrylic is that it is somewhat predictable under tension. When a glass panel is subjected to pressure there arent usually signs that it is reaching max PSI until it fails catastrophically. With acrylic there are signs of stress before it eventually cracks.