adding halides

crabbychris

Member
Hi, was thinking of adding 2 70W 14,000k halides to go along with my current lighting which is 2 65W Dual actinics(420nm & 460nm) and 2 65w dual daylight(6500 & 10000). That would be a total of 400 watts of light for my 90 gallon which i think will be more than sufficient, question is do I actually need that much light for polyps, mushrooms and a sebae? Would I be better off to just add 2 40W 50/50 regular fluorescent bulbs for the things i would like to keep since i already have the fixture.? Suggestions would be great!
 

rotarymagic

Active Member
70w lights on a 90gallon are a waste... you need 2x250w's to really do anything..
PAR on metal halides is waaayyy higher than compact fluorescents of the same wattage... watts per gallon is dated lol..
 

crabbychris

Member
Ye i know that watts per gallon is dated lol.....it's the only way I have available to gauge the amount of light. Pretty much what I am saying is I want just enough light to support polyps and a sebae. I alrerady have 4 65w compact fluorescents and want to add just enough to support them. My budget is tight and I really don't want to go with halides because of the initial cost and the higher energy costs, if a few more fluorescents would be enough then I will go that route. So my question is if i added 2 40w 50/50 or daylight bulbs would this be enough along with my pc's? If not what about 4 more? I already have the fixtures i would just need to buy bulbs.
 

mie

Active Member
Throw a clam in there to justify the higher watts.

Just be careful as you will melt your mushrooms under that much lighting.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
no, that won't be too much lighting.
By the way, you could have gotten 100w halides at home depot under the security light section for like 89.99
Unless you start burning your corals by putting them too close to the light, you will be fine. Also keep in mind now the excess heat coming off of the canopy. You might want to add a fan.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
The 90 is a 4' tank right? This is in a canopy right?I think it is because you wanting to add the MH to the CF. So....Do an icecap 2 lamp t5 retrofit instead. You'll be good to go for the sebae and then can add reflectors, end caps and lamps to go to 4 t5's on it later if you want.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Originally Posted by mie
http:///forum/post/2858302
Throw a clam in there to justify the higher watts.

Just be careful as you will melt your mushrooms under that much lighting.

I've got mushrooms within 8in from the bulb, icecap EB 250w MH XM 10,000k's. IMO, moving them, or increasing lighting, without proper acclimation will harm them, but not the amount of light. Also, if a shroom doesn't like where it's at, it'll detach and find a new spot.
 

crabbychris

Member
Yea the 90 has the same footprtint of a 75. Wattsupdoc why would I exchange my pc's for t5's? That doesn't make sense to me. I can order another sunpaq retrofit kit and just add 4 more pc's or order the 2 bulb kit. I would assume that it would as much or more light than a t5 kit.
My canopy already has 2 fans in it so i can put just about anything in there. If the regular fluorescents are enough then I will do that....
The only reason i am scared of halides is that i have no clue about them....truthfully i have never seen them up close.
Snakeblitz how do you know that those kits at depot are the right spectrum? I have seen mercury lighting and all sorts of stuff there before but i dont know exactly what will and wont work. If you have any info on that it would be great.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Halogens are not even an option. NEITHER is adding just NO fluorescents. Forget about it.... Also, halogens aren't anything at all like halides.
Additionally, your PCs are, no offense intended, crap compared to T5's and or Halides. Generally speaking, trying to give you something you can wrap your head around. Lighting goes like this, from least powerful, to most powerful.
Normal Output fluorescent
Compact fluorescent
VHO fluorescent
T5 fluorescent
MH... (High intensity discharge)
Now there are too many different factors that come into play as far as exactly how effective these individual types of lamps are. Too many for me to describe here, if you want to understand it all fully, do some thread digging here, you'll find weeks, or months worth of articles to read on lighting. However, there's no cheap way out. Either do it right, or don't keep things that need that much light. Your PC fixture really is just good for softies. Now there are a lot of softies you can have under that and you can keep a beautiful tank, no doubt. But that sebae ain't going to be healthy. It needs more... Don't waste you money on another PC fixture. I suggested what I feel was the best option for your situation. That would have your tank and your pocket book at heart, If you still believe you can get by some other way, or would like to try the halides go right ahead. But your PC lights is crap in comparison to what a pair of OVERDRIVEN INDIVIDUALLY REFLECTED T5HO'S will do....no doubt. I believe that with 4 over driven, good PAR producing T5's and 2 of your 65w PCs as actinic supplement, you'll be able to keep ANYTHING. Which is why I said you might replace later. It's a cheap upgrade later on. Of course you definitely could go with metal halides.
But the cost is going to be significantly more. you would need at minimum 2, 175w MH jobbers to get enough light. you can't add 70 watters then change to 175 watters either. Also I would recommend actually doing 250 watt. For depth penetration. So.... anyways, I feel the icecap T5 retro is your best option.
 

crabbychris

Member
So what you are telling me is that 4 54w T5s have more light output than my 4 65w PCs w/ parabolic reflectors? I'm confused.
 

culp

Active Member
Originally Posted by CRABBYCHRIS
http:///forum/post/2860425
So what you are telling me is that 4 54w T5s have more light output than my 4 65w PCs w/ parabolic reflectors? I'm confused.
t5 with even less watts gives off more light and the light goes deeper into the water than CF's.
 
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