Advice

[shagtimepons]

I have decided to take the plunge after much debate. I have decided to set up a 40 gallon tank. The 36x18 footprint works good for me.
My plans are:
75lbs lr
2inch sand base
2x 96 PC Lighting
Do I need to get a skimmer when I am cycling the tank. Can I add later. Same thing as far as a sump goes. How many Powerheads should I plan on? With this lighting could I keep any corals how about BTA'?. When Bioload is talked about. How much do corals and inverts affect it. Would this set up work for a couple of clowns, a small goby, maybe a wrasse. What else work work.
Thanks in advance
Jerry

 

[krishj39]

First, I'd either got with at least 4 inches of sand or about one inch of sand. 2 inches doesn't give you enough depth to have an anaerobic layer but it does give you enough to have build of of chemicals, which is a bad thing. Either put in a deep sand bed, or just go with 1 inch (or less) for looks.
Opinions differ on the skimmer. I think you can add the skimmer later if you like but that it is best to have the tank setup completely when you cycle. My reasoning is that what you are doing while cycling is creating a population of bacteria that will consume the waste as quickly as it is produced. This is an equilibrium. Therefore, I think you should try to establish a balance that is as similar to the way the tank will be setup after all is done as possible. As for the sump, I don't think you need to add that before cycling though it seems to be something that is easiest to add while you are doing the initial setup of the tank. The sump adds water volume and provides a place to hide unsightly equipment. If you don't mind having the equipment in the display tank for the time being, I don't think the extra water volume is critical during cycling.
That lighting would not be enough for an anenome. Regardless of the kind of lighting you choose, you should wait at least 6 months after setup to make sure the tank is stable.
Corals and inverts do not significantly change the bioload, unless you feed them. A good way of thinking about bioload is not by looking at the animal, but rather at the amount of food you will have to add to the tank for them. The food you add to the tank is ultimately what affects the bioload.
Your tank should be fine with 2 clowns (percs or false percs being a good choice) a small goby and a small wrasse (6 line maybe?). Other good small tank choices include a cardinal fish (bangaii is my favorite), firefish, chromis, maybe a dwarf angel.

 

[greatfullreefer]

You dont need a skimmer for the cycle you can add it later, but i suggest adding the sump when you install the tank. Two 200 gph powerheads would work plus the pump in the sump for the return flow. With that lighting mushrooms and softies should be ok...BTA not even close to enough lighting im affraid. Corals and inverts dont add enough to your bio-load to be concerned about. Your fish selection looks ok to me. Remember go SLOW only things that happen fast are BAD things. Do not add any livestock before or during cycle.

 

[shagtimepons]

Thanks to both of you. So no hosting for the clownfish. Would a single 275 MH be enough.

 

[shagtimepons]

Krish:
Have read bad things about DSB. In your opinion is that true.

 

[ty_05_f]

DSB are a being debated hotly. They don't have a MH as 275 watts, but there is a 250 watt one which I think would be excellent for your tank.

 

[shagtimepons]

Sorry about the 275, will the 250 be ok as a single pendant.

 

[ty_05_f]

yeah you can get it as a pendant which would help keep the tank a little cooler.

 

[shagtimepons]

Will that be enouth light for BTA's.

 

[ty_05_f]

yes it would be enough for BTA

 

[diddley]

there are examples on this board of people keeping bubble tips and long tentacled anemones with the light you are proposing. i have a friend who has had a long-tentacled for about 15 months with the exact same tank and lights you were asking about (40 gallon - 192 watt). condys are a lower light anemone as well. just remember, lower light = more feeding. one of the moderators here, Thomas712, has bubble tips flourishing under VHO . i can't think of any other anemones that have been kept consistently with good results under pc's however. metal halides are not mandatory for all anemones.

 

[shagtimepons]

Thanks for the insight. I know it's down the road, but it would be nice to experience the clown relationship with the anemone.

 

[barry cuda]

Keep in mind that clowns will host things other than anemones, both biological and artifical. Various clown species are known to host (in captivity) in such corals as hammers, frogspawns, torches, and elegants, and even in things as bizarre as a clump of hair algae. They're also known to host on powerheads, PVC pipe sections, and almost anything else that provides some shelter.
SO, you may not need anemone-friendly lighting and quite as pristine water quality if you get lucky and they host something else in the tank.

 

[krishj39]

Regarding the DSB. I have personally never had any problems with mine. However, the problems that arise come only after the tank is very mature. It seems that they can be eventually overloaded and cause problems, but this is after several years. In my opinion, it's hard to tell if a sand bed is really helping or hurting your tank, but I tend to think mine has been helpful. If I was setting up at 40 gallon tank I don't think I'd mess with a DSB, just not enough area for the anaerobic bacteria, IMO.

 

[thomas712]

Did someone mention my name?
Diddily - Thats VHO not PC that I have, I corrected your typo

Shagtimepons -
I use 380 watts for my BTA's but wish it were more, not sure how well you would do with only 192 watts, but thats about 4.8 watts per gallon and you might be fine with a BTA, RBTA or condy like was said. But the watts per gallon rule is a rather poor measure when talking about anemones. For me its more like a range. I sure wouldn't want anything less than the 380 watts that I have, 440 would be better. Someday I'll make the jump to a MH/VHO combo.
I would think you could keep a few softies with that lighting, mushrooms, leather, xenia...etc..
Thomas

 

[diddley]

please accept my apology, thomas712.
not that watts per gallon is the end all, but 380 watts in a 90 (vho) and 192 watts in a 40 (pc) would be comparable. look at the depth of the tanks (distance from light source). i stand behind the information in my original post, but regret the error i made in the case of 712's tank. everybody, enjoy your evenings.