After ich

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cuccaro

Guest
So after losing one fish to ich (used copper levels where perfect) I tried ick be gone from ***** (I know u are all gonna say dumb idea ) it is reef safe and has cured the ick ( this is second tank I have used on and works great!!! My question is this where ick was on sailfin he has a couple of spots that look like scars ( not raised pieces of ick) just a faded spot where ick was. Is this normal and will they go away?
 

prh123

Member
UV sterilizer or Ozone with a controller have a secondary capability besides crystal clear water, the parasites fall off a fish every 24 hours and go to a new host, UV or Ozone kills free floating parasites. Any good salt water fish store runs one or the other. People will tell you lots of stories, it works. Petsmart has a 9w “Green Killing Machine” for like 39 dollars, its self-contained, goes in tank or sump. Buy a extra UV bulb, 3-6 months they need to be replaced, it has a indicator when UV fails it is no longer lit (on power supply). It does not disrupt coralline algae growth it will actually promote it by eliminated nuisance micro algae. 9 watts is good for up to a 40 gallon, years ago they were a plumbed in, only useful to pet stores. It is now its plug and play. I tried and proved it myself, when I cycled the tank one of the damsels had parasites, the other fish tried to kill him, I put it in a refugee container ran UV “problem solved”.
If you put copper or any medication in your water it may never leave the tank, with reefs even in the simplest form you don’t want it in your tank. The idea is to isolate new fish in a hospital tank even as small as 2 gallons.
 

mr. limpid

Active Member
You question is if the faded spots on your fish will go away. Yes, this was damaged done to its scales by the parasite, scales are like our skin the damaged ones will be replaced. It will just take time and good water quality and nutrition.
 

prh123

Member
If you like fish you prevent the disease from occurring to begin with, new fish are stressed from capture, shipping, the odds are against you “hoping” things go well.
 
C

cuccaro

Guest
You can do every thing to prevent any kind of disease but facts of matter are you can never guarantee there not gonna get sick. That being said don't know why last post was written. I don't believe people read in this forum. From begging only question asked was spots on fish after ick gonna heal and after three posts only one answers question.
 

prh123

Member
It became old school for some reason, but when you read about water treatment and public aquariums, they all (for the most part) run ozone on a controller and or UV sterilization. “Both” have central filtration so they can’t risk contamination in one system to another, or even within the same tank. A "small" store owner told me he brings in 20,000 dollar’s worth of fish each month, they have a 8 foot skimmer in the basement running ozone and UV is design to run in line flow. Basically UV is cheap, its kills micro algae and ick, that’s it. Ozone is 500 dollars with controller, pricy, but it test ORP (redox potential) the ability of the water to handle waste. A reef is 325-390, so they test for 425 in the sump. For invertebrates they drop it to 325 because they filter feed. The commercial units are made by companies like Sanders in Germany. I used them, and Red Sea.
UV is cheap and for fresh and salt water (39 dollars at Petsmart), Ozone with a controler is only practical in salt water applications, but, sewage treatment has used it since the 1930's (nothing new), the salt water pet industry just made it practical to use on a tank, with a reactor or in the skimmer. The drinking water at the grocery store used RO and Ozonization also. Quite common.
The fast answer is the water using either will look crystal clear and common deseases such as ick will be cured rapidly, the parisites jump off the fish in 24 cycles, they get zapped. UV is designed to be very low flow, thats all you need. The alternative was to isolate new fish in a holding tank with medications for common deseases brought on by stressed fish, apparently being captured is just that, stressful.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Quote:
UV sterilizer or Ozone with a controller have a secondary capability besides crystal clear water, the parasites fall off a fish every 24 hours and go to a new host, UV or Ozone kills free floating parasites.
this is a absolutely wrong statment also when using ozone one needs to remember that ozone will degrade some forms of plastic and rubber
 

tangs rule

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/387063/after-ich#post_3406310
this is a absolutely wrong statment also when using ozone one needs to remember that ozone will degrade some forms of plastic and rubber
+1
ONLY free swimming parasites that GO THRU the UV unit OR are exposed to O3 in some chamber MIGHT
be killed....There's NO promise it'll work, as the parasite must be exposed long enough to die, the uv light/O3 must be concentrated enough to do it, and other factors play in too.... The sure way to erradicate them from a DT is 6+ weeks of fallow (fishless) time - then qtine all new arrivals prior to inserting in the DT in the future.
 
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