Now you are ready to add the ammonia. This can be as simple or
as complicated as you want it to be. Some people have reported
good results by simply dumping some in the tank water to read
around 10ppm, then waiting till the ammonia and nitrite readings
were back down to 0 and nitrates were showing a positive reading.
While this is certainly going to work, I'm not sure how large a
colony of bacteria will be left at the end of the cycle. By adding
ammonia on a regular basis, you can be assured of a large colony
of bacteria to support a full load of fish at the end.
The amount of ammonia you add initially is going to be by trial and
error. Different brands have different concentrations, so you'll have
to find out for yourself how much you need. But add enough to read
anywhere from 2ppm to 5ppm on your ammonia test kit, and keep
track of that amount. I like to use a child's medicine syringe or
dropper for this. This is the amount you will be adding on a regular
basis, say every day or even two or three days. As bacteria
colonizes and multiplies, it will consume the ammonia and begin to
convert it to nitrite. Be patient as this may take several days, or
even a couple of weeks, for the nitrites to show up. And don't be
alarmed if your ammonia readings go higher than your test kit chart
shows. This is a normal process and it will come back down when
it's ready.
When your nitrites show a reading of around 3-5ppm, cut the
dosage of your ammonia additions in half, but keep adding it at the
same regular intervals. You need to feed the bacteria to ensure that
it keeps growing and multiplying to form a full bacterial bed. If you
stop feeding the bacteria, they may begin to die back to fit the food
source. This nitrite phase is usually the longest part of the cycle.
And again, don't be alarmed if the test readings go off the chart.
More food equals more bacteria.
This phase also often seems to get "stuck". If your nitrites seem to
be off the chart for more than a couple weeks, with your other
readings seeming to be at a standstill also, it might be time to do
something a little different in your routine. Maybe skip a couple
ammonia additions if you are adding every day, or add an extra one
if you are adding every couple days. Or try adding a different
amount, maybe a little less. You could turn up the heat a little, just
don't go over about 90 degrees F, as you don't want to cook your
bacteria. The point is, whatever you are doing routinely, just do it a
little different for a few days to shake things up and get your cycle
rolling again. If all else fails, do a small water change of maybe
20%, but don't touch your gravel or filter.
During this second phase of the cycle is usually when nitrates
begin to appear and ammonia drops back down to 0. But every
tank's cycle seems to run a little bit different due to all sorts of
factors which could include seeded material added, heat, light,
concentrations of ammonia, and I suspect the chemical makeup of
our tap water. So it's not unusual to show readings of all three
components at the same time, or two, or even one at a time.
The thing to watch for is when you have a positive reading of
nitrates, and your ammonia and nitrites have both dropped back
down to 0. If you have achieved this, you are ready for a large water
change. If your nitrates are below 40ppm, do a 50% water change.
If your nitrates are over that amount, do about a 90% water change
to bring them back under control. Then add your original dose of
ammonia, wait 24 hours, and run your tests again. If ammonia and
nitrites are still 0, congratulations - you are finished and ready for
fish. Just don't forget to readjust your temperature to meet the fish
you want to keep, and give the heater enough time to stabilize.
This method of fishless cycling is usually quite a bit faster than
cycling with fish, but it can still seem like forever when you are
looking at an empty tank full of water. With a lot of established
material to start with, it can go as fast as just a couple of days. On
the other hand, with a completely sterile environment to start with,
it can take as long as a couple of months, depending on the
concentration of ammonia, heat, etc. The important thing to
remember here is to relax and be patient. The whole point of this
method is to provide a safe and healthy environment for our fish to
live in. And if you get impatient or nervous because your test
numbers seem to high, just remember the part about being patient.
You're not hurting any fish! And you're certainly not going to hurt a
box full of water with a little ammonia. Besides, a bottle of ammonia
is a lot less expensive than fish, and can cycle a lot more (and
bigger) tanks than just one fish can.
Take this time to research the kind of fish you would like to have.
And if you also want to have live plants, this would be the perfect
time to do a little aquascaping. Plants will consume the nitrates
and help to keep them under control, and provide extra surface area
for nitrifying bacteria. As an added bonus, they will also bring in
bacteria of their own, the same kind you are trying to establish, as
long as you don't let them dry out or rinse them in water containing
chlorine. If you feel you must rinse them before putting them in your
tank, do so in dechlorinated water to protect the bacteria.
So what are you still reading this for? Go get your ammonia and
create that perfect new home for your fish. Remember this is not an
exact science, so don't be afraid to experiment with it to see what
works for you. Relax, be patient, and have fun with it!
Here's wishing you a lifetime of healthy, happy fishkeeping!
Rebecca Townsend
h, nitrites& nitrate levels etc.The package gave no such information.Should I buy a test kit?My instincts are pretty good,but this new product is a first for me.I guess I'm kinda old school,but I'd like to catch up.
