Algae on my sps
- Thread starter stdreb27
- Start date
paintballer768
Active Member
Im just curious, what kind of PO4 tester are you using? Is it really accurate with the readings between 0 and 1?
paintballer768
Active Member
Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/2815815
I've used a sailfert and a tropic marine tester.
Oh salifert, thats a good one. How big is the tank and what kinda skimmer is running?
http:///forum/post/2815815
I've used a sailfert and a tropic marine tester.
Oh salifert, thats a good one. How big is the tank and what kinda skimmer is running?
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by paintballer768
http:///forum/post/2815834
Oh salifert, thats a good one. How big is the tank and what kinda skimmer is running?
It is a 58 gallon, and I'm running a lifereef skimmer.
http:///forum/post/2815834
Oh salifert, thats a good one. How big is the tank and what kinda skimmer is running?
It is a 58 gallon, and I'm running a lifereef skimmer.
gatorwpb
Active Member
actually I think phosphate tests are very inaccurate. I dont even bother using them, I just judge based on existence of any cyano or algae or lack thereof.
But I agree, it may show 0, but thats just because the HA is using it up.
Do you have a fuge with cheato?
Maybe try a Phosban reactor. Theyre pretty cheap and work well.
But I agree, it may show 0, but thats just because the HA is using it up.
Do you have a fuge with cheato?
Maybe try a Phosban reactor. Theyre pretty cheap and work well.
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by GatorWPB
http:///forum/post/2815870
actually I think phosphate tests are very inaccurate. I dont even bother using them, I just judge based on existence of any cyano or algae or lack thereof.
But I agree, it may show 0, but thats just because the HA is using it up.
Do you have a fuge with cheato?
Maybe try a Phosban reactor. Theyre pretty cheap and work well.
I have chaeto in the fuge, it isn't experiencing a lot of growth. I had a reading with the algae a few weeks ago, before I purchased some po4 media. And have seen a retraction of the algae I've had in the tank. And it is still receded. however on the sps I'm still seeing growth.
http:///forum/post/2815870
actually I think phosphate tests are very inaccurate. I dont even bother using them, I just judge based on existence of any cyano or algae or lack thereof.
But I agree, it may show 0, but thats just because the HA is using it up.
Do you have a fuge with cheato?
Maybe try a Phosban reactor. Theyre pretty cheap and work well.
I have chaeto in the fuge, it isn't experiencing a lot of growth. I had a reading with the algae a few weeks ago, before I purchased some po4 media. And have seen a retraction of the algae I've had in the tank. And it is still receded. however on the sps I'm still seeing growth.
gatorwpb
Active Member
Hmm ok. Is that particular SPS getting too much direct flow?
Sometimes if a specific sps gets too much flow, you can get some algae growth on the tips of it and altering the flow a little will correct the problem and the sps will encrust back over that spot where the algae was.
Sometimes if a specific sps gets too much flow, you can get some algae growth on the tips of it and altering the flow a little will correct the problem and the sps will encrust back over that spot where the algae was.
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by GatorWPB
http:///forum/post/2816354
Hmm ok. Is that particular SPS getting too much direct flow?
Sometimes if a specific sps gets too much flow, you can get some algae growth on the tips of it and altering the flow a little will correct the problem and the sps will encrust back over that spot where the algae was.
I'll play with my flow some more. Do you think it is possible to have it too close to the light? I have 2 150's, about a 7 hr photo period, and most of them are within 3 inches of the surface and the lets are 3 inches tall?
http:///forum/post/2816354
Hmm ok. Is that particular SPS getting too much direct flow?
Sometimes if a specific sps gets too much flow, you can get some algae growth on the tips of it and altering the flow a little will correct the problem and the sps will encrust back over that spot where the algae was.
I'll play with my flow some more. Do you think it is possible to have it too close to the light? I have 2 150's, about a 7 hr photo period, and most of them are within 3 inches of the surface and the lets are 3 inches tall?
gatorwpb
Active Member
Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/2816375
I'll play with my flow some more. Do you think it is possible to have it too close to the light? I have 2 150's, about a 7 hr photo period, and most of them are within 3 inches of the surface and the lets are 3 inches tall?
well it can be too close to the light, and 3 inches is close to the surface, I only have one acro tip that is that close, the rest are 4" or further from the surface.
But 150w is not much compared with people that have 400w and acros near the surface.
my point is, I doubt its too much light. My 150s are on for 9.5 hours.
Did you not light acclimate it? by that I mean either start with it on the sand bed and slowly raise it up or something like that.
http:///forum/post/2816375
I'll play with my flow some more. Do you think it is possible to have it too close to the light? I have 2 150's, about a 7 hr photo period, and most of them are within 3 inches of the surface and the lets are 3 inches tall?
well it can be too close to the light, and 3 inches is close to the surface, I only have one acro tip that is that close, the rest are 4" or further from the surface.
But 150w is not much compared with people that have 400w and acros near the surface.
my point is, I doubt its too much light. My 150s are on for 9.5 hours.
Did you not light acclimate it? by that I mean either start with it on the sand bed and slowly raise it up or something like that.
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by GatorWPB
http:///forum/post/2816632
well it can be too close to the light, and 3 inches is close to the surface, I only have one acro tip that is that close, the rest are 4" or further from the surface.
But 150w is not much compared with people that have 400w and acros near the surface.
my point is, I doubt its too much light. My 150s are on for 9.5 hours.
Did you not light acclimate it? by that I mean either start with it on the sand bed and slowly raise it up or something like that.
no but before my tank they were under 2 400-watt fixtures, and that was a couple of months ago.
http:///forum/post/2816632
well it can be too close to the light, and 3 inches is close to the surface, I only have one acro tip that is that close, the rest are 4" or further from the surface.
But 150w is not much compared with people that have 400w and acros near the surface.
my point is, I doubt its too much light. My 150s are on for 9.5 hours.
Did you not light acclimate it? by that I mean either start with it on the sand bed and slowly raise it up or something like that.
no but before my tank they were under 2 400-watt fixtures, and that was a couple of months ago.
stdreb27
Active Member
Originally Posted by steelytom
http:///forum/post/2819629
how old are your bulbs and what kind are they? Old bulbs can aid the algae growth. what kind of food are you feeding and how much. A lot of flake foods are high in phophate.
bulbs are almost new, 4 or 5 months old. I feed a homemade blend of shrimp, nori, scallops and whatever seafood that has been in my freezer for a while.
http:///forum/post/2819629
how old are your bulbs and what kind are they? Old bulbs can aid the algae growth. what kind of food are you feeding and how much. A lot of flake foods are high in phophate.
bulbs are almost new, 4 or 5 months old. I feed a homemade blend of shrimp, nori, scallops and whatever seafood that has been in my freezer for a while.
S
saltycrab
Guest
I would run a phosphate reactor. They are cheap and effective. You just have to replace the media on a regular basis. If SPS have a dead spot algae may and probably will grow there. If tank conditions are keep up and phosphates kept down then the algae will slowly die off and the SPS will grow back in the spot that is dead. IMO the only effective phosphate tests are the colorimeters like the Hanna low range but they are expensive and will probably only tell you what you already know.