Algaefix Marine by API?

[snakeblitz33]

Hey all,
I just wanted everyone's opinions on a product called AlgaeFix Marine? It supposidly kills cyanobacteria, green slime algae, and hair algae and is safe for reef aquariums. I have heard great reviews from people in Mississippi using it on clients aquariums.
1. Anyone have experience with this product?
2. Does it really work?
3. Would you recommend it?
BTW, I know that this isn't a cure all and that you have to maintain great water conditions to actually get rid of the problem... But this would be a great thing to use for regular maintenance...
Thanks for any reviews!

 

[schnutzzy]

I have used this product as recomended and saw absolutley no results. It may work for others, but I feel it was another waste of money, at least for me.

 

[snakeblitz33]

hmm, alright. Anyone else?

 

[reefkprz]

even if the product works (I have no expirience with it) it wont solve the cause of the problem, if your having such algae problems you need to eliminate the nutrients they feed on. If you eliminate the algae but not the source the nutrients will continue building up instead of being consumed by algae. its a double edged sword your tank may look better for a time but in the terms of actual water quality it will actually suffer.

 

[kellenr]

I have no experience with these products either. Usually when an algae problem is out of control there's always and underlying issue and its usually pretty easy to figure out. You don't want to add any 'chemical quick fixes' to your tank, it's just going to mask a problem thats occurring from a water imbalance in your tank. The only product that I have ever used is Chemi-Clean Red Slime Remover a few months back when I got Cyanobacteria in my tank. That's the only product I'd use and is pretty readily used throughout the hobby and is 'safe'. I only had to use it once a while back. You need to figure out what type of algae it is and where it's coming from, you shouldn't need to use anything for 'regular maintenance' if your levels are proper.
First off, what type of algae to do you have growing that you want to get rid of?
Secondly, what are your water parameters? ...including temperature and lighting schedule as well.

 

[snakeblitz33]

it's for a coppered 225gallon aquarium with way too many fish, not enough lighting and a very crappy protein skimmer. Nitrates are in the upper 30's and the company that owns the aquarium would rather buy a chemical instead of upgrading to a proper protein skimmer and stop dumping half a pound of shrimp, flake food, and nori in the tank every day.
Of course there is an algae problem. I've been doing 40 to 60 gallon water changes per week and it is progressively getting worse because they are not willing to change their feeding habits, nor their bioload.
And yes, duh, I know that it is not a quick fix, I even said that under my main statement. I just want their aquarium to look good so I can keep their account.

 

[snakeblitz33]

I didn't mean to say not enough lighting. They have two 400 watt metal halides they like to keep on for 4 hours a day and 18 hours a day they like to keep on the super actinic VHO's.

 

[aztec reef]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2680987
it's for a coppered 225gallon aquarium with way too many fish, not enough lighting and a very crappy protein skimmer. Nitrates are in the upper 30's and the company that owns the aquarium would rather buy a chemical instead of upgrading to a proper protein skimmer and stop dumping half a pound of shrimp, flake food, and nori in the tank every day.
Of course there is an algae problem. I've been doing 40 to 60 gallon water changes per week and it is progressively getting worse because they are not willing to change their feeding habits, nor their bioload.
And yes, duh, I know that it is not a quick fix, I even said that under my main statement. I just want their aquarium to look good so I can keep their account.
I suggest you give them a little lesson on "Nitrogen cycle" and how it effects the ecosystem..
A tank's ability to nitrify waste/organics is dependant on a steady ammonia production on a daily basis, and it goes like this: fish eat, then digest,then poop, which is then decomposed by microorganisms that process fish waste..
ammonia turns to nitrtes, trites turns to nitrates...which u have 30ppm of it..

Now, comes the tricky part...How are u exporting this accumulated trates????
they do not vanish like a fart in the wind does...
humans have toilets were they pee and poop, thats the human way of removing waste(lucky for us , we don't have to swim in it.)....human organs are filters. right?
back to fish: fish don't have toilets, so that means that they have to swim in their toxic waste/urine (aka ammonium).. thats were nature takes place, the natural nitrogen process helps u turn alll ammonia and waste into less harmfull nitrates..
Nitrates fuel your algea..
Nitrates have to be exported wether is via dsb denitrification, water changes with ro/di, macro algeas.microorganisms,live stock growth ect..
Chemicals dont remove nitrates, they neutralize it. making it less toxic or turning it to a different form..which still leaves u with unwanted organic/inorganic compounds. this need to be removed or it will cause nuisance algeas..
Its ovbious that the protein skimmer is not keeping up with the amount of waste produced by fish.. nor is the tank's bacterial colonies sufficient to support the bioload and high feeding activities..
U have few choices: either feed less or increase biological filtration. increase water change amount or more constantly. decrease bioload..oh and i hope your using ro water for your waterchanges..
last but not least, if u don't want to change nothing, u can do waterchanges every other day to keep up with the excess nutrients and decay..otherwise your fighting an uphill loosing battle....

 

[snakeblitz33]

Lol, I'm sorry, but don't assume that I know nothing. I know the nitrogen cycle yadda yadda, I own a fish store.
I was getting some opinions on the product before I used it on my tanks at the store and eventually at her restaurant.
I'm trying desperately to get her to get more flow in her aquarium, upgrade her protein skimmer and adding on a 30 gallon refugium. I don't know what the deal is. We'll see how it goes.
Edit: By the way, I'm already doing 40 gallon water changes on her aquarium using pure RO/DI water from my commercial unit. She also has a RO Unit on auto top off and I do change out the filters regularly.

 

[aztec reef]

so u own a fish store, but u have no idea how the product works???
why even carry it? if u have no experience with it, how can u recomended to costumers??
are u saying that your tanks at the store have nuisance algea too.
I know theres a host of chemicals and quick-fix products available. but if u ever read a reef book, you'll know that reef inhabitants come from a nutrient-poor environment..
all u need is ro/di and salt. and for reefs you'll need calcium/alkalinity stability..the rest is natures job. not men's..
It's a fact that your water changes aren't working...
so u know the nitrogen process...good! now, do u get the fact the tanks bioload and heavy feeding regimes are overkill for your ecosystem nitrifiying/denitrifying bacterial capabilities???
Good, now i would like to know what your expectations are of this product???
hopefully is not to avoid water changes..
If you always used ro/di, clean filters ect.. why would u suggest the reason of accumulated nitrates is?
its not rocket science, its logic..
any type of algea = excess nutrients,impurities in water column and you know ro don't have any of those.
that leaves human intervention,use and abuse of untestable products, & human neglection the main cause.
FYI: no tanks are the same, even if size,equipment,livestock, & regular practices are equally..
this is due to the same reason that a human body has a specific anatomy of its owm.
in tanks is aka zootomist and microscopical anatomy that makes up a natural ecosystem.